New Trans cooler = checking fluid level ? [Archive] - Cherokee SRT8 Forum

: New Trans cooler = checking fluid level ?


DavesSRT8
06-27-2007, 02:30 PM
Plan on installing new transmission cooler (Earls) in series with in-radiator stock cooler and since we don't have a dipstick, I was planning on filling the cooler with fluid before hooking up the braided lines (I am using AN fittings). Anyone see an issue with this ? Maybe a little more for amount in lines ?

Is there some way to purchase a dipstick from DCX ?

thanks,
Dave
2007 JGCSRT8

jlandbl
06-27-2007, 02:47 PM
I believe this one will work:

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7029

sunnysrt8
06-27-2007, 03:01 PM
I believe this one will work:

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7029

Thank dipstick will work but you should be able to find it on ebay for cheaper. Just do a search for mercedes transmission 722.6, like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/722-6-Transmission-Dipstick-Part-Tools-Mercedes-Benz_W0QQitemZ180133181262QQcmdZViewItem


I installed a transmission cooler on mine in series. Check out my writeup on the LX forum for pics and details
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=56863&highlight=transmission+cooler&page=6

DavesSRT8
06-27-2007, 04:37 PM
Thanks to both for replies ! Sunnysrt8, I see you used the LX forums grocery list from Summit, as I did. So, did you run the braided lines back to where it transitions to rubber and cut there ? do you use the barb fitting to go into the rubber ?

so, confirm please:

What is the flow ? i.e is the front line in the trans the return or feed ?

could you just tell me how you ran the lines ? i.e. front line is feed OUT of trans,then into new cooler, out of new cooler, into top of stock cooler out of bottom of stock cooler, then back to rear trans line ?

I am going to do the long threaded rod mount, going through the bottom and top holes into the bumper.

THANKS for the great pictures !

Dave

DavesSRT8
06-27-2007, 04:40 PM
One other item. the 1st dipstick says NAG1, and 2nd is Mercedes 722. will both work for the JEEP trans ?

Dave

Mango
06-27-2007, 06:42 PM
Dave you're nuts! I love it. :) Can't wait to see your results. When are you guys hitting E-town again?

mrfreeze
06-27-2007, 07:32 PM
damn tranny cooler huh,,gets me thinking if will help or shift lag by cooling the tranny fluid??

LittleDonnie
06-27-2007, 10:54 PM
I bought one from the stealer $7

DavesSRT8
06-28-2007, 05:26 AM
Mango:
if we get the Borla on in time, this Friday night.

Learned alot about transmissions and fluid temps from last vehicle I had. Anything over 200 degrees sustained is not good. Monitoring this vehicle with Dashhawk has shown me there are peaks over 200 degrees, with most daily driving being in the 150-170 range, which is OK. 180 thermo helped lower, as did fan mod, but I noticed the sloppiness in transmission when temps were higher.

Mango
06-28-2007, 11:57 AM
Dave, is the track a madhouse on Friday nights? I might come up. :)

BuilderBill
06-28-2007, 01:14 PM
Mango:
if we get the Borla on in time, this Friday night.

Learned alot about transmissions and fluid temps from last vehicle I had. Anything over 200 degrees sustained is not good. Monitoring this vehicle with Dashhawk has shown me there are peaks over 200 degrees, with most daily driving being in the 150-170 range, which is OK. 180 thermo helped lower, as did fan mod, but I noticed the sloppiness in transmission when temps were higher.

Dave,
With the lower thermostat, do you ever see trans temps over 200*?
Bill

DavesSRT8
06-28-2007, 01:41 PM
Mango:
not sure - have not been there for a long time. Looks like we may not be going - my son gets home from work too late.

That SRT experience DVD was awesome, wasn't it ? !

Dave

DavesSRT8
06-28-2007, 01:47 PM
Bill:
yes, even with lower thermo, unless we turn the fan on manually, we see, when putting around in traffic, some alarming numbers - 218 degrees, etc.

As I said, from my last vehicle, and hearing data from factory transmission engineers, 200 degrees sustained is apparently the damage point/breakdown point for trans fluid and internal transmission problems to occur. Normally, i see 'safe' numbers but i NEVER want to see above 200, regardless.

My only dilemma is whether to run in serial with current cooler (like B&M and other manufacturers recommend) or standalone, since the hot fluid increases ECT. However, I believe I am going the route of through the NEW cooler first then the stock radiator one - i want the extra cooling capacity. Shifts seem less 'sluggish' when fluid is cooler, and I want the added protection from fluid breakdown.

Dave

DavesSRT8
06-28-2007, 01:50 PM
Bill:
one other item I am still investigating - my last vehicle was a Ford, and the engineers stated if the fluid is LESS than 125 degrees, converter lockup would not occur (computer delays the lockup). I am still looking into 'too cool' and see how the DCX products work. Too hot is bad and too cool may cause decreased performance, efficiency, etc. also.

sunnysrt8
06-30-2007, 08:16 PM
Thanks to both for replies ! Sunnysrt8, I see you used the LX forums grocery list from Summit, as I did. So, did you run the braided lines back to where it transitions to rubber and cut there ? do you use the barb fitting to go into the rubber ?

so, confirm please:

What is the flow ? i.e is the front line in the trans the return or feed ?

could you just tell me how you ran the lines ? i.e. front line is feed OUT of trans,then into new cooler, out of new cooler, into top of stock cooler out of bottom of stock cooler, then back to rear trans line ?

I am going to do the long threaded rod mount, going through the bottom and top holes into the bumper.

THANKS for the great pictures !

Dave

Sorry for the slow response but have been traveling around lately and haven't had a chance to post a response. I did buy my supplies from Summit and used the list of goods from the LX forum. I tapped into the rubber hose that feeds the top of the stock tranny cooler using the barb connecter and braided stainless line (what a pain to cut if you don't have the right cutters). I didn't run new lines all the way to the tranny. This set up seems pretty rock solid the way its set up. I ran my GCSRT8 at road course events both before and after the install. Before the install, the overheat light came on after about 3.5 hours of abuse, and after the install no warning lights and it was 95 degree day.

http://lh5.google.com/eric.dieterich/RmTaEUUbxrI/AAAAAAAAAEo/-I7aAJPbkJ8/s400/CIMG0990.JPG

DavesSRT8
07-01-2007, 05:10 AM
SunnySRT8:
thanks for the info ! Looking forward to cooler trans temps.

DavesSRT8
07-02-2007, 01:29 PM
Sunny:
so, you cut the hose going INTO the top of the stock (radiator) cooler, fed it into the new cooler (it doesn't matter which fitting on new cooler right ?), out of new cooler, then back into stock rad cooler, correct ?

so, the barbed fittings on the LX forums were right size ?

just wanted to make sure. i am also trying to figure out if we really need to cut the stock lines - why not an adaptor ?

Please confirm what I am saying, if possible. and thanks in advance for all the info !!!


Dave

sunnysrt8
07-02-2007, 03:45 PM
Sunny:
so, you cut the hose going INTO the top of the stock (radiator) cooler, fed it into the new cooler (it doesn't matter which fitting on new cooler right ?), out of new cooler, then back into stock rad cooler, correct ?

so, the barbed fittings on the LX forums were right size ?

just wanted to make sure. i am also trying to figure out if we really need to cut the stock lines - why not an adaptor ?

Please confirm what I am saying, if possible. and thanks in advance for all the info !!!

Dave

It doesn't matter what end you feed the hot fluid into the new cooler. The barbed fittings on the LX site were the right size for the GCSRT8 so no worries their. If you do not want to cut into the rubber hose, you would either need to run new lines back to the transmission or rebend the lines that feed into the existing cooler and try to find some type of connector to fit that. I am not even sure it would be a good idea to bend the aluminum tubing. I attached a picture below of the only removable connection point besides the other end on the transmission. Hope that helps.

http://lh4.google.com/eric.dieterich/Rke01GgITCI/AAAAAAAAAA0/umy4ksBqc7Q/s400/Transmission%20Small%202.JPG

generalconfusion
07-03-2007, 01:44 AM
Sunny:
so, you cut the hose going INTO the top of the stock (radiator) cooler, fed it into the new cooler (it doesn't matter which fitting on new cooler right ?), out of new cooler, then back into stock rad cooler, correct ?

Dave

Dave.........the truck has a cooler already that is not part of the radiator....look closely.....it sits in front of the radiator.

Running a second one like a setrab from Earls would be ideal.

DavesSRT8
07-03-2007, 04:32 AM
Sunny:
thanks again for info !

cobrakid
09-19-2007, 03:46 PM
I got the e-bay MB dipstick.

I got it in with about 6-8 inches to go, kinda twisted it, and it went in.

Started the Jeep and went to pull it out, and about half way out it was
stuck????????

I finally twisted and pulled and it came out.

Level looks good.

Is this the right one? It is springy and has a plastic ends.

thanks,

I got it b/c I have an intermittent drip about every 3 days???????

scared to take it to dealer.