The following break-in procedure is for anyone running a PWR built engine.

If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders will glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Conventional 10w30), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over.

An engine's initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant (air, oil, and/or water) up to operating temperature only, with little or no load, then shut down and allowed to cool to ambient temperature. This is important. After each run the engine needs to completely cool down to ambient temperature. After a cool down period, start it up again and take the vehicle for a spin.

This time give the engine light loads at relatively low rpm and stay out of top gear. Lugging the engine, i.e., low RPM with a lot of throttle (manifold pressure), is more detrimental than high rpm. Another key is too constantly vary engine load during the entire break-in period. A constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This second run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down.

The third run should see slightly higher rpm with light to medium power loading using short bursts of acceleration to help seat the rings. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. A fourth run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and again avoiding top gear. Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Most of the metal particles will break away within the first 50 -75 miles. To ensure the rings seat well, use the same high quality oil and don't be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed.

A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine's redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After 500 miles re-torqueing the head is not a bad idea. Switch to synthetic oil but not before 500-1500 miles. Most of the engine experts warned of the danger of breaking in the engine too easily and ending up with an engine that will always run slow whether it is from tight tolerances, inadequate ring seal or carbon buildup. Basically, be sure not to get it too hot but be sure to seat the rings properly.

Have you ever looked into the Joe Gibbs oil Andy? I've been running their XP0(3) and XP1(4) mixed at the last two races. It's pretty good stuff. Although, their XP0 looks like you're pouring apple juice into your engine.:rofl: Once I get home, I change the oil. Oil temps aren't supposed to get over 220* running that blend.

I broke mine in on the street for 500 miles no WOT and running break in oil. After the 500 miles we changed the oil with synthetic and ripped on that mutha!

Haven't let up off the gas yet!

Completely agree with the Motoman's thoughts on breaking in an engine.

** I can't get Brad Penn locally... Any chance you can send some with my motor??? Please. :)

No problem.

I should have asked for an SHR NAG-1 :)

Perfect... Thanks Andy.

.

We can still add the NAG-1

I was hoping the Brad Penn rep would provide free break-in oil to get people hooked on their products. I wonder if SHR would do the same??

I think I'll have to wait to see my current NAG-1 in my rearview mirror before I buy a new one. :)

Hey Andy can you send the break in oil with the motor when you ship it? I cant get that stuff anywhere up here.

After break in im going to be running amsoil euro 5w40 oil is that ok?

Newfie.

amsoil is good oil also. That would be my second recomendation.

I will start shipping break-in oil with the engines.

Awesome!

Thanks

And whats your recommended street break-in procedure?

I dont recomend break-in on the street.

very good info that i already order my benn oil. I have one question though would you not want to put some other oil at first just to see that it start correctly and everything is good for like a 1-2 min and if everything is fine then add the break in oil.

Just a question i would ask before i put the break in oil cause i would hate to waste the oil

Yes, I would run a cheap 10w30 oil and bring it up to operating temp and then dispose of that fluid and filter. I need to add that step.

Yes, I would run a cheap 10w30 oil and bring it up to operating temp and then dispose of that fluid and filter. I need to add that step.

Sweet & thanks for this thread and answering my question. I have heard good things about the green oil cant wait to use it

Thanks for bring up this thread again!

Andy the only way i have to break in the motor is on the street, so i guessim on my own with this?

Newfie.

Great info thanks Andy! I will be putting in Mobil 1 Synthetic oil this weekend to replace the oil thats currently in it. According to the Brad's this oil will be perfectly fine. Do you agree Andy?

use 5w30. Mobil 1 is ok, but amsoil would be better if available.

Thanks for bring up this thread again!

Andy the only way i have to break in the motor is on the street, so i guessim on my own with this?

Newfie.

I cant legally say to do this, but I can say that I have done this on the street in the past with success but we recommend to do it on the dyno.

Do your engines come with dyno sheets?
If not, could they be broken in by you on a dyno?
If you don't currently offer that, you may want to. People will see what they are getting, and it removes the break in variable, when you do it yourselves.

No, we do not include dyno sheets with each engine. No one is doing that. We are not selling crate engines anyway. 90% of our engine sales are shortblocks with a few longblocks and zero crate motors. If someone wants to pay us $1200 we can throw it on an engine dyno for them.

Good call, never even thought about the crate vs Long/Short block.

Bump for good info