So I checked wkjeep for maintenance information on the srt8, and I hit some oddities

I dont see where it talks about the read Diff or the front diff. I see where it talks about the transmission and the transfer case.

Can someone tell me what mileage it says we need to change the front and rear diff fluids at? And what fluid should I be using, and best place to get it?

Also am I nuts, or does it say that spark plugs dont need to be changed until 102k miles?

Tranny its saying needs to be done at 60k miles. Should I do that sooner?

Currently the Jeep has 26k miles on it, and so I figured it fluids time. Let me know. I have 3 cars to maintain (all high performance and expensive ;-) ) , so randomly changing fluids early is a bit excessive when I've always got another car that is coming up on maintenance.

Thanks!

Jon

I dont know what the book says but I changed the fluids in the transfer case and both diff at 15K, and just now did it again at 42K, along with Trans and brake fluids this time. Mine is an 06

What fluids and how much of it? Any Vendor on the forums have a good deal on all the fluids I will need?

Thanks!

Jon

http://wkjeeps.com/wk_axle_tcase_maintenance.htm

All the info is there. I have the same mileage on my 08 and I am just doing the TC. Not worried about the others yet. The TC fluid is expensive....up in Canada I paid $77/qt and you need 2.

much appeciated !! Anyone want to weigh in on the spark plugs?

So leave the stock plugs in still? And just get the over the counter oil from Jeep/Dodge?

So leave the stock plugs in still? And just get the over the counter oil from Jeep/Dodge?

At 26k miles I would not worry about the spark plugs. Now if you were at about 50k then I would change them if it was my Rig. As far as Oil I scored big time this past Black Friday and bought a bunch of 0W40 Mobil 1 Full synthetic oil. Look at Pepboys as they have specls for like 5 quarts with a Mobil 1 filter for 29.99.. So you might have to by at least to of these...

The one PITA part of all the fluids is getting the transfer case right... it gets filled ~25mm BELOW the fill hole.. Not like front/rear diffs that you fill till it overflows. [Clearly a remnant part from some other installation where the t-case was angled right for the fill hole to be at the proper level... ]

The new fluid is very clear and hard to read on a bent up (L-shape) coat hanger you need to fabricate. After about 20min of WTF trying to read the level.. what I did was take a set of diagonal cutters and create a set of 3 grooves in the wire.. .one at the desired 25mm another 2mm above and below. (Spin the wire in the cutters as you press gently)... Much easier to read when the groove was either full or not full of oil.

Another tip... The t-case isn't the easiest to drain fully so we all have a range of reports on how much went back in... (you can't just add 2qts and be done... you have to measure the level). If you are like me I went over a bit and need to drain some out. PUT A FRESH PAN UNDER THE T-CASE WHEN DOING THIS!.. I was draining the new fluid into the old.. and 'almost' bobbled the drain bolt... which would have caused all my new expensive oil to drain in with the old!!! That was close. At least if its a clean 'new' pan you can collect it again.

At 26k miles I would not worry about the spark plugs. Now if you were at about 50k then I would change them if it was my Rig. As far as Oil I scored big time this past Black Friday and bought a bunch of 0W40 Mobil 1 Full synthetic oil. Look at Pepboys as they have specls for like 5 quarts with a Mobil 1 filter for 29.99.. So you might have to by at least to of these...

Thanks, was talking about the transfer case, and differntial oils. Not the engine oil. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for the response on the plugs.

The one PITA part of all the fluids is getting the transfer case right... it gets filled ~25mm BELOW the fill hole.. Not like front/rear diffs that you fill till it overflows. [Clearly a remnant part from some other installation where the t-case was angled right for the fill hole to be at the proper level... ]

The new fluid is very clear and hard to read on a bent up (L-shape) coat hanger you need to fabricate. After about 20min of WTF trying to read the level.. what I did was take a set of diagonal cutters and create a set of 3 grooves in the wire.. .one at the desired 25mm another 2mm above and below. (Spin the wire in the cutters as you press gently)... Much easier to read when the groove was either full or not full of oil.

Another tip... The t-case isn't the easiest to drain fully so we all have a range of reports on how much went back in... (you can't just add 2qts and be done... you have to measure the level). If you are like me I went over a bit and need to drain some out. PUT A FRESH PAN UNDER THE T-CASE WHEN DOING THIS!.. I was draining the new fluid into the old.. and 'almost' bobbled the drain bolt... which would have caused all my new expensive oil to drain in with the old!!! That was close. At least if its a clean 'new' pan you can collect it again.

I'll keep this in mind when I do mine. I assume everyone is just buying their transfer and differential oil direct from the stealerships?

Jon

I'll keep this in mind when I do mine. I assume everyone is just buying their transfer and differential oil direct from the stealerships?

Jon

I bought my Transfer case oil from the stealership, but the Dif Oil I bought from Amazon and used Royal Purple 75W140 and bought a case with 12 bottles.

Thanks, was talking about the transfer case, and differntial oils. Not the engine oil. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for the response on the plugs.

My bad bro... Look at the note above. Also one other place you can get the NV146 transfer case oil for cheap is Mopar super center for like 34.50 a bottle..

For the TC dipstick I took a 3" nail and bent it into an L shape. The range is 25-35mm below the hole so I measured down from the bend and dremeled a line at 25mm and a line at 35mm. So anywhere in between those two lines is good. Just be sure not to drop your dipstick into the hole :eek:

So I checked wkjeep for maintenance information on the srt8, and I hit some oddities

I dont see where it talks about the rear Diff or the front diff. I see where it talks about the transmission and the transfer case.
Detailed pictorial: http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_axle_tcase_maintenance.htm

Also not a bad idea to flush radiator while your doing the rest. With new Anti Frz.