Well it's been a week since I put in the cooler t-stat. A couple days ago I popped the hood to show the Hemi to a couple of Corvette guys I met. I was embarrased and a little shocked to see that coolant had sprayed all over the left side of the engine compartment by the airbox. It was dry so I figured I'd keep an eye on it. Now today I checked it after driving a while and I had fresh coolant splatered in the same area. I bled the system and refilled it when I was done installing the t-stat and I double checked the radiator cap twice. I'm assuming that if I over filled the system the overflow bottle would catch it and keep this from happening. It appears to be comming from the radiator cap or somewhere near there. The thermostat housing is dry and free from any signs of leakage. Am I missing something obvious here? It doesn't leak at an idle so it must be happening while I'm driving when the system is under greater preasure. Is there a way to preasure test the system with my air compressor? If so how can I do this? I'd love any advice you may have. I'm taking my trip to NJ next Tuesday so I need to figure this out pretty quick. Thanks

Scott

Well it's been a week since I put in the cooler t-stat. A couple days ago I popped the hood to show the Hemi to a couple of Corvette guys I met. I was embarrased and a little shocked to see that coolant had sprayed all over the left side of the engine compartment by the airbox. It was dry so I figured I'd keep an eye on it. Now today I checked it after driving a while and I had fresh coolant splatered in the same area. I bled the system and refilled it when I was done installing the t-stat and I double checked the radiator cap twice. I'm assuming that if I over filled the system the overflow bottle would catch it and keep this from happening. It appears to be comming from the radiator cap or somewhere near there. The thermostat housing is dry and free from any signs of leakage. Am I missing something obvious here? It doesn't leak at an idle so it must be happening while I'm driving when the system is under greater preasure. Is there a way to preasure test the system with my air compressor? If so how can I do this? I'd love any advice you may have. I'm taking my trip to NJ next Tuesday so I need to figure this out pretty quick. Thanks

Scott

I put mine in a few weeks ago and its doing the same thing.

what temp/model tstat ?

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2759&highlight=radiator+cap

check the gaskets around them this could be a reason.

It's the radiator cap. A few guys, including me, have had this problem. I believe it is not related to the thermostat. Some guys have tried a Stant locking replacement cap, but I'm not sure of the outcome.

what temp/model tstat ?

I got the Valucraft 180* t-stat from Autozone as recomended by several members here.

I'm really glad to hear I'm not the only one with this problem. This has to be a problem with the stock cap not being very tamper freindly. I don't see how the cooler t-stat could have anything to do with the cap leaking. Maybe someone here who has found a solution to this problem will see this and post the fix. In the mean time I'll start searching for a better cap. Man this board is awesome. Thanks for the quick feedback everyone.

Switch to the Stant and you will be as good as new. Actually better...

Have the stant top since new thermostat 2 months ago and no problems with spray.

Does it need to be a locking cap or am I just looking for a Stant radiator cap?

It's a locking cap.

Stant part number 11334

It's a locking cap.

Stant part number 11334

Which auto stores carry Stant?

Which auto stores carry Stant?


I got mine at Pep Boys.

Pep Boys as well.

Which auto stores carry Stant?

Most Advance stores have them in stock also.

I have the same issue. Called PB and put the 1 they had in the store on hold for this evening.

It is the cap with a lever on top that locks down. I think if you do a search you will find the part number in a thread?/

b

I had the same thing happen when I changed the t stat. Took it out several times until I figured out it was the radiator cap. Put the stant one on and never had a problem since.

I think if you do a search you will find the part number in a thread?/

b

Or just look in post #11 in this thread. ;)

I went to Napa today and picked up a Stant cap but it doesn't lock. I didn't get a chance to read this thread again so I just stopped there while I was out today. Thanks for posting the part #. I'll get the right one on Monday. Great response to this thread BTW. A big thanks to everyones input. :)

Both my Dad's SRT8 and mine were spitting coolant. We switched to the stants and the problem went away. :)

There must be something wrong with a batch of the springs in the caps that DCX recieved for the build. Our trucks were built a month apart and BOTH had bad caps.

Mine spits coolant too. I thought the thin hose between radiator and reserve tank split or something. Getting the new cap today. Will report back.

Changed mine this morning and washed out the engine bay. No more messy engine and the leak is gone. :) :)

I asked for Stant part #11334 and no matches came back at my local Autozone. Guess I'll venture a trip to PepBoys. :(

I just had the same thing happen with the 176* stat!!!

The only thing I can think of is that when we change the stats, we are not getting all the air out of the system (steam) and the pressure is too much for the stock spring.

Mine also started leaking after I installed the 180º tstat.
I added the Stant 11334 cap and a 1/2" hose clamp to the return hose next to the radiator cap, since mine also leaked from there and problem fixed. If you use the 1/2" clamp make sure not to overtighten it too much since that tube is plastic, so becarefull there. You can pick the 1/2" clamp also at Pep Boys.
A few guys with the SRT8s have already added the 1/2" clamp including Inferno SRT8, I knew about it from one of his post.

Edit: D-man, I was thinking the same thing, but the oem cap still a pos, I'm glad I got the Stant.

Guys take an OEM cap and the Stant cap and try to push the spring down, the OEM one goes down with no effort and the Stant one does not budge even with 2 hands.

Its DCX using made in China radiator caps. And get this OEM cap $17, Stant $5,

To EVERYONE who buys a JGC SRT8 first mod, radiator cap.

If the OEM spring is 18 Ibs im Elmur Fud.

Guys take an OEM cap and the Stant cap and try to push the spring down, the OEM one goes down with no effort and the Stant one does not budge even with 2 hands.

Its DCX using made in China radiator caps. And get this OEM cap $17, Stant $5,

To EVERYONE who buys a JGC SRT8 first mod, radiator cap.

If the OEM spring is 18 Ibs im Elmur Fud.

You know Tony, I did exactly that once it cooled down. I looked at the caps "Hmmmmmm "Both" 18lbs." Well 18lbs is 18lbs right?????? Pushed them both down. I went in the house.......got my engraving gun and scratched out the (1) on the stock cap..... Just so I would know if I ever came across it again what the "real" pressure was.:D :D

Edit: D-man, I was thinking the same thing, but the oem cap still a pos, I'm glad I got the Stant.

Yeah, that's the only thing it could be becuase I had taken the cap off before the lower T-stat and didn't have a problem, so it must be air in the systems after a stat change.

AND, it's not like I can reach over, with the engine running, and raise the RPM by the linkage anymore to bleed the air out of the system, huh:eek:

I will, but I havent had anyone around, (my wife, etc), at the time I was thinking about it:rolleyes:

I couldn't find part#11334 so I went with a standard Stant 18lb cap and everything seems to be ok for now. I'm leaving town tomorrow for Jersey so I'll be keeping a close eye on it.