Ok guys well I just decided im getting the Vigilante 2800 converter from Precision Industries here is there website http://converter.com/index.htm

I tried calling them but there closed for the day, anyone else know where to get them?

Im probably going to go to either Flybyu's guy in CT or Matt from tunetyme in NJ for install.

Anyone know any other transmision specialist in the tri state area?

While everyone tries to pump more power out of our 6.1L im going to try and get more out of the transmission first before I touch the engine. Should be interesting seeing that most guys have beefed up the engine first, im going in the opposite direction so it should be interesting to see what happens to my ET's.

....I had a Yank in my wife's Firehawk and loved it.

They could set it up for a hard, but not tire shocking launch if that makes
any sense.

If you could get one that launched harder without spinning the tires in the
first 10 feet, you would pick up prolly 2 "SOLID" tenths overall!

....I had a Yank in my wife's Firehawk and loved it.

They could set it up for a hard, but not tire shocking launch if that makes
any sense.

If you could get one that launched harder without spinning the tires in the
first 10 feet, you would pick up prolly 2 "SOLID" tenths overall!

The website says .2 gained for 60' and .7 on the 1/4 mile :eek: :D

I dont know why I waited so long to do this! Im pumped for this MOD!!!!

And with the B&G Stage 2 already broken in WATCH OUT!

Here is another cool link: http://converter.com/ads/index.htm

Ok guys well I just decided im getting the Vigilante 2800 converter from Precision Industries here is there website http://converter.com/index.htm

I tried calling them but there closed for the day, anyone else know where to get them?

Im probably going to go to either Flybyu's guy in CT or Matt from tunetyme in NJ for install.

Anyone know any other transmision specialist in the tri state area?

While everyone tries to pump more power out of our 6.1L im going to try and get more out of the transmission first before I touch the engine. Should be interesting seeing that most guys have beefed up the engine first, im going in the opposite direction so it should be interesting to see what happens to my ET's.


Ordered mine from Jeff at mopar supercenter. I'll tell you next week how it goes. With everything I'm doing at once, I won't be able to determine exactly effects, just that it functions and doesn't cause problems.

....no way, but still awesome!

3-4 tenths tops.

If I got 2 in 60ft, that would be a 1.47 60ft........

Goodluck, keep us posted.

Ordered mine from Jeff at mopar supercenter. I'll tell you next week how it goes. With everything I'm doing at once, I won't be able to determine exactly effects, just that it functions and doesn't cause problems.

2800 Stall?


....no way, but still awesome!

3-4 tenths tops.

If I got 2 in 60ft, that would be a 1.47 60ft........

Goodluck, keep us posted.

Its fu**ing sick isnt it?!?

Muahahahahahahahahahahha!!!!!!!

Ordered mine from Jeff at mopar supercenter. I'll tell you next week how it goes. With everything I'm doing at once, I won't be able to determine exactly effects, just that it functions and doesn't cause problems.

I ordered mine from Jeff at the Supercenter also and they did the install while my wife and I enjoyed Charleston.
Bill

The website says .2 gained for 60' and .7 on the 1/4 mile :eek: :D

I dont know why I waited so long to do this! Im pumped for this MOD!!!!

And with the B&G Stage 2 already broken in WATCH OUT!

Here is another cool link: http://converter.com/ads/index.htm

IF you can hook it up.
None of us can with the 2 wheel peel.
A posi may make a difference if we can start getting the power to the pavement!
Bill

LOL! Matty at Tune Time here in NJ told me on the phone yesterday that his customer with the prototype Vig 2800 did a 4 wheel burnout through an entire intersection outside his shop. LOL!! That must have been an AWESOME sight to behold.

LOL! Matty at Tune Time here in NJ told me on the phone yesterday that his customer with the prototype Vig 2800 did a 4 wheel burnout through an entire intersection outside his shop. LOL!! That must have been an AWESOME sight to behold.

Thats great stuff, what kind of truck?

IF you can hook it up.
None of us can with the 2 wheel peel.
A posi may make a difference if we can start getting the power to the pavement!
Bill

I hear you Bill thats why im staying under 3000 Stall anything 3000 or higher man I wont have those insane launches anymore!

I like the way you think, ahhhh great minds think alike!

A Jeep SRT8 with heads, cam, Kooks, B&G Stage II and the Vigg.

LOL! Matty at Tune Time here in NJ told me on the phone yesterday that his customer with the prototype Vig 2800 did a 4 wheel burnout through an entire intersection outside his shop. LOL!! That must have been an AWESOME sight to behold.

Very cool. If I lock in High 4x4, I can do a 4 wheel burn out and it gets sideways, 295/20's on all for corners. Cute... until you hit the track.

A Jeep SRT8 with heads, cam, Kooks, B&G Stage II and the Vigg.


Thats why he fried the tires, heads and cam with the converter, I heard about that SRT8, pure ANIMAL!

He has the Vigilante 2800 Stall in there!

If any converter is going to work in this truck it will be the Precision Industies converter. They make some of the best conv. in the industry. I ran them in all my AOD mustangs with great success. I have track tested them against other conv. and they always ran a solid tenth faster with a couple mph. I paid $800 back in the day (1995) wonder what they go for now with multi disk setups 3 and 5. Not sure if you guys know how a converter works but the stallion/vigilanty multiplies tq much better then most so the stall doesn't need to be that high so becareful when choosing. To high isn't always better. My conv flashed at 3400 in my car and it ran low 9s at 140mph on foot brake oh and it 60ft 1.36. The PINK converter :) :) :)

If any converter is going to work in this truck it will be the Precision Industies converter. They make some of the best conv. in the industry. I ran them in all my AOD mustangs with great success. I have track tested them against other conv. and they always ran a solid tenth faster with a couple mph. I paid $800 back in the day (1995) wonder what they go for now with multi disk setups 3 and 5. Not sure if you guys know how a converter works but the stallion/vigilanty multiplies tq much better so then most so the stall doesn't need to be that high so becareful when choosing. To high isn't always better. I ran a 3400 in my car and it ran low 9s on foot brake. The PINK converter :) :) :)


I have heard nothing but great things about Vigilantes, what do you think about Pro Torque?

I have heard nothing but great things about Vigilantes, what do you think about Pro Torque?


Tony,

I purchased a 2800 stall from Pro Torque and honestly I dont see a difference from factory. Now mind you that I dont have the mods you do but you are suppose to see a significant difference from stock. I'm still waiting Joe Rivera to call me back about a possible exchange for another TQ....waiting patiently....


Joe..call me.

Tony,

I purchased a 2800 stall from Pro Torque and honestly I dont see a difference from factory. Now mind you that I dont have the mods you do but you are suppose to see a significant difference from stock. I'm still waiting Joe Rivera to call me back about a possible exchange for another TQ....waiting patiently....


Joe..call me.

Good to know, thank you.

Hmmm higher stall?

Good to know, thank you.

Hmmm higher stall?


Well from what I got out of this all is well that our converter is a great fit for the truck now. If you plan on doing some serious horsepower to the truck then the 2800 is probably the best fit for daily driving. Now mind you again I dont have the mods yet..I am planning on adding more power down the road just not yet.

Anyhow I personally think I may see a difference once I get more power to the wheels. *fingers crossed* If you go with Pro Torque just make sure you get the right stall for your truck. Maybe 3200? Not sure. Give a call over there and as for Joe Jr. Tell him Sergio referred you to him. Maybe then he will contact me :)

Well from what I got out of this all is well that our converter is a great fit for the truck now. If you plan on doing some serious horsepower to the truck then the 2800 is probably the best fit for daily driving. Now mind you again I dont have the mods yet..I am planning on adding more power down the road just not yet.

Anyhow I personally think I may see a difference once I get more power to the wheels. *fingers crossed* If you go with Pro Torque just make sure you get the right stall for your truck. Maybe 3200? Not sure. Give a call over there and as for Joe Jr. Tell him Sergio referred you to him. Maybe then he will contact me :)

Can you brake stall to 2,800? And what could you brake stall at with the stock one? Did you do a before and after at the track? It might be hard to feel a few tenths on the street.

The reason I ask if you can brake stall to 2,800 is because that is usually an estimate for converters. That same converter in a car with less power for instance will stall less. Same if you have better brakes, you can stall higher. If you have good brakes and high hp with the heavy SUV's you will be able to stall high.

I have a built 06' Mustang converter in my garage im putting in my X, I should be able to stall about 300 more rpm's than a mustang could with the same converter, its much harder to push a heavier car with good brakes, therefore will stall higher.

Maybe i'm a moron, but what is it exactly that a converter does, what is its job?

2800 Stall?




Its fu**ing sick isnt it?!?

Muahahahahahahahahahahha!!!!!!!


Yea, he has 2600, 2800, and a 3000 I think.
It's an APS. HHP uses a different brand and they have the same available.

Maybe i'm a moron, but what is it exactly that a converter does, what is its job?


Brings you into the power band quicker then the 2400 Stall converter.

Maybe i'm a moron, but what is it exactly that a converter does, what is its job?

Its what autos have instead of a clutch. Read this:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm

Its what autos have instead of a clutch. Read this:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm

This GCSRT8 is my first automatic, so I don't know too much on this stuff. Question. The article on how stuff works doesn't talk about what the "stall" means. Does a "2800 stall" torque converter means that you can have your foot down on the brake and gas t the same time, and will reach 2800rpm and stay there, or does it mean something else? Also, I read that the have lock up and no lock up converters. What is the stock one, and what is this 2800 one? Does a lock up converter have any disadvantages when compared to no lock up? Coming from stick cars, I would assume that lock up would be better, because no lock up would be as if a clutch was slipping the while time. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Sorry I don't know too much about automatics.

Theres "stall" and "flash" speed. Stall is usually how far you can "brake" the Torque Converter (TC). Flash is where the rpms actually revved to when the TC actually grabs and the car moves.

Jump in your car and brake it, I have no idea what your stall is, but say it goes to 1,800 before the car wants to move forward, then gun it and watch your rpm's... it will most likely "flash" up instantly to a higher rpm then the vehicle moves forward. Or just drive normal at a low speed and low rpms, punch it, and you will see your rpm's "flash" up very quickly. Thats your flash speed. A TC is better to know it as a flash speed over the stall speed. Your flash is your flash... it wont go higher, but the stall can go higher. For instance if you have a 3k converter and you brake stall.... say you get it up 2,500 and your car already wants to launch, you can't go higher than 2,500 or the car moves forward. Now go get some upgraded disc brakes and pads, the extra stopping power of the brakes will allow you to "stall" higher, and get closer to your real "flash" speed. eg: heavier vehicle, more torque will also let you stall higher, as long as the brakes can hang on.

You want your stall speed or flash to be where you obtain the most torque in the rpm range, in a perfect world.

Thats why the ultimate setup for a TC is to have a trans-brake. You set the trans brake to the desired speed, say 3k to match your TC. Mat the pedal, your rpms go to exactly 3k even though your foot in on the floor, push a button when the light turns green and your off. That setup allows you to go to the max stall or flash without touching the brake.

Unfortunately they don't make a trans brake for my 5speed auto yet. Maybe they have them for yours.

This is what I have learned about TC's. Maybe someone can chime in and correct me or add.

As far as the lock-up versus non-lockup. I think it can get more tech than how I understand it. For instance a factory auto will usually not lock up the tranny right away when shifting gears, smoother ride and shifts and the customer is happier.

I have tuned my X to lock up a lot quicker. Less slipping and is also better on higher hp motors to "shift" faster, less wear and tear on the tranny and like you said, less slipping, and equals better ET's. I can feel my auto shift pretty stiff, and down shift. I like it though. I think usually you want to let 1st-2nd slip a little then lock them for the remaining shifts. Gives more of a manual sensation.

Wow... My non-automotive mind, noob self has no idea what you just said... but, hey! Awesome! :)

LEARNING!!

awdrocks... Thanks. I have a better understanding now, kinda. So when they say "2800 stall converter", do they actually mean flash, or stall, as in max brake stall?

awdrocks... Thanks. I have a better understanding now, kinda. So when they say "2800 stall converter", do they actually mean flash, or stall, as in max brake stall?

Well remember that the term "stall" is very general. It can mean "brake stall", "flash stall" and "true stall".

How I have understood it is that when they say 2,800 stall "should" really mean your "flash" or "True" stall speed, because in my trans-brake example you get the stall to actually set at 2,800 which is the "True/Flash" stall speed of the converter.

If the "True" stall of the converter is 2,800, then by brake stalling you can normally reach about 500-700 rpm's LOWER than the "true/flash" stall speed (that's why trans-brakes are so good). So by buying the the 2,800 you might only be able to brake stall to about 2,300... maybe more or less depending like I said on other factors as brakes, vehicle weight and torque.

TC's are measured from three variables "True, Brake and Flash" stall. Flash is generally measured when you are rolling at low speed, get the lowest gear possible at the lowest rpm, punch it but at a perfect point to avoid your tranny from down shifting. If you nail it and get tire spin or if your going to fast you wont get an accurate flash speed.

For instance I have a built 05+ Mustang converter in my garage floor. I share the same 5r55 tranny as the new Mustangs. The stock Mustang converter from factory flashes at 2,500rpm's. Go jump in a 2005+ Mustang and foot brake stall it, you will get to about 2,000 max. Now take that same TC and put it in my X. I will see about 2,400 foot stall in my X due to:

1) more torque
2) more weight
3) prob better brakes

I can get very close to its true stall speed.

So how we built my TC was that he welded parts together to make it stronger and raised the "flash/true" stall speed by about 600rpm's over the stock stall speed. He did this by changing the angle of the fins in the converter, among other things I think.

Soooo im hoping to be able to brake stall to about 2,800rpms and flash to about 3,200. So to say you have a 2,800 stall converter is a very general term. To many variables to see what your vehicle will actually brake stall at, until you actually test it in the real world. Temp can even effect your stall speed.

lol... So to answer your question:

So when they say "2800 stall converter", do they actually mean flash, or stall, as in max brake stall?

I guess that really depends on how that company markets their product. They could have already tested that particular TC on a stock STR8 and were able to "brake" stall it to 2,800rpm's and decided to call it a 2,800 stall converter, but really flashes higher and has a higher "true" stall speed. I would personally ask the company how they measure their 2,800 advertised stall; brake, flash or true stall speed.

Hope this helped and didn't confuse more.

As far as the lockup and non-lockup, the example I gave was more towards tuning your tranny and TC. I think they do make special converters with different fin angles that will allow the TC to lock up quicker physically, and not by "tuning" the computer.

I get my 2800 on june 11th.Cannot wait:D :D :D :D

I don't know anything about ProTq I would stick with PI. I can't remember the owners name but a real cool guy he will figure it out for you. Usually they get it right the first time (Stall speed) it sucks when you have to pull the trans again to get it right. Don't forget you may need better tires due to the way these conv multiple tq.



I have heard nothing but great things about Vigilantes, what do you think about Pro Torque?

Usually they get it right the first time (Stall speed) it sucks when you have to pull the trans again to get it right. Don't forget you may need better tires due to the way these conv multiple tq.

Thats right.

Its usually a hit or miss where your stall speed will be depending on your own truck variables.

I have owned Precision and they make a nice converter. If you were looking at options then I would also look at Yank. I owned three of those and loved them. Most of the F-bodys run Yank's. The rotational weight difference going to a 9" converter on the F-Body was significant too but in all cases it knocked about 1/2 sec off the 1/4 mile time. Each vehicle is different so I would recommend going with a vendor and stall speed somone else has already tried.

It's great when we all agree aint it.
I thought about trying a converter but to be honest with you I can't see it making a diff unless I go with drag radials or something. I think the truck will have major traction problems and not go any faster. Plus the traction control is a problem unless the stage 2 really gets rid of it completly.

It's great when we all agree aint it.
I thought about trying a converter but to be honest with you I can't see it making a diff unless I go with drag radials or something. I think the truck will have major traction problems and not go any faster. Plus the traction control is a problem unless the stage 2 really gets rid of it completly.
GRN,
You got it....about a grand for parts and labor to not make any difference at the track.

I can't imagine how the Stage II that we love will help with traction.

Bill

I was running exact times as panajeep and he has the 2800 converter, I may keep my stock one.

1.7 consistent in negative DA days I may get that down to 1.5-1.6

I was running exact times as panajeep and he has the 2800 converter, I may keep my stock one.

1.7 consistent in negative DA days I may get that down to 1.5-1.6
I actually lost a tenth on the 60' compared to BlackStallion who is bone stock and runs like hell.
You could here a screech when he takes off compared to mine with the 2600 converter that now spins.

Haa...watch out next time Blackstallion, I am hoping on our next friendly meeting at Rockingham that I will be the
1st Hemi doing a 3 wheel peel!http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/images/editor/smilie.gif
Bill

Nitto needs to come out with there Drag radial in a 20 for all you HP JUNKYS.
That tire would be the best for all around use.

Nitto needs to come out with there Drag radial in a 20 for all you HP JUNKYS.
That tire would be the best for all around use.
Agree...there are no d/r made in 20". Did a search on the Corvette forum and they came to the same conclusion.

Can't we put together a wheel / d-r tire combo with the same overall height as we have now?
Bill

Just for FYI I have a 3200 Vig installed and it launch's way better then stock...i ordered the B&G for the 07 so we will see.......i go to the track once it's on and running within spec's.

I will keep you guys up dated.

Oh ya Macedo Motorsports does awesome work in Orlando area!!!!!:D

Yeah me and Chris were talking about 18inch rims with some nitto's or bfg"s with the same overall tire height. Thats all you need as long as the 18s will clear the BIG brakes. I know CCW here in Florida will make any custom wheel and there real nice. I think with all the PWR Chris makes he will be doing the home work for you guys.