here are the photos as promised.

one shows the bottle up in the rear wheel well.

another shows the "funky" line I had to fabricate for the fuel fitting.

another shows the interior hidden, and race mode with button handy.

close up of where solenoids are and sprayer nozzle in the intake hose.

lastly some shots of my dual modded brake duct ram air configuration.

....any questions, just ask.

....more/continued.....

Man that is the most getto setup I have ever seen.How safe is it for you to tape up the nos bottle....lol:)

That is a very clean install......... :confused:

Nice use of duct tape and electric tape. Looks top notch

......your not seeing the whole deal......sorry.

There is a nitrous bottle bracket at the bottom of the bottle.
It is bolted to the frame.
I also ran a bungee under the bottle for extra support, and black duct taped
it up, so when you look directly at it from the outside, you can't see the
blue bottle.

Before I taped it, when you looked closely.....you could see the blue bottle
barely visible, but you could see it.

I admit I hate the fuel line, but the Zex one I paid $100 for wouldn't fit.
However, I did use high dollar fuel injection line, and double clamped the
joints, and have a fire extinguisher under the front pass seat.

Don't worry, I will get it tightened up within a few weeks.

first thanks for the pics . but whats with all the tape in the first pic :confused:

...sorry if you guys are visually offended. haha

You know what I always say..... "Pull out there!"

It's one of the fastest least modded ones in the country, on & off the juice.

I promise to get the stuff "de-rigged"

See the back picture at the track, and you can see the bottle, and if it wasn't
taped up, most people would spot the blue NOS bottle.

for me i wold do the bottle in black .

?,why did you mount your nos bottle on the underside of your car?i would hate to see what would happend if you got rear-ended..

Come on man, take a little pride in your ride. If the duct tape is to help hide the bottle, spend a couple of bucks and make a bottle boot. You know, like those made from neoprene we use on our paintball tanks. I am sure you could make something professional looking for under $20. Besides, who cares if people know you have spray?

Dude. Everyone needs to chill out! This is obviously a quick put together. The man said he is going to tidy it up. I personally asked for the pics, and I think it is a genius place to mount the bottle. I am going to take that idea and do something similar. If its connected to a frame rail, it is just as safe as in the trunk. He is a pioneer as he found a spot to do a stealth nitrous install. No one had this idea in my 3 page thread over on ***********, so give him the respect he deserves.

Thanks for the pics man, i will be doing something very similar in the future.

Go~Rilla Out!

I like your idea but not your execution. That looks downright dangerous dude.

....sorry guys, when you give me a hard time, it just irks me a little.

I did it kinda quick, I have a 2 yr old and a four year old and I am a good
father, so I don't have a lot of spare time.

I ordered a black velcro bottle blanket, b/c I only have a purple one now.

The bottle in the back is safer than it appears. Let me ask you this.....

This is my daily driver and I take the kids to & from daycare everyday.
"would you want the bottle mounted in the hatch area?" to pop, blow-off, or
be bouncing around in an accident?

The next thing that will be said is just put it in when you go to the track.
...yes, I could do that, but I like it hidden to mess with people, then when they
say.....you got NAWS, I can pop the hatch laugh at the speaker with them,
and let them try and find it or another excuse why they got smoked.

It's all in fun. and I am sorry if I snapped on some of you.
The tape will be gone soon, and I want to mount the inside NOS switch in a
descreet location. (it's a lease remember) and buy one of those nice coiled
up buttons.

I had all the trick stuff on my Cobra, the TPS switch, etc etc, but I still
think the
cig lighter power is kinda cool?

goodluck, I was just sharing my set-up with pics.

later...

If there is anyone in Tampa area that would like to try something like this I will help. I would love to take his Idea and weld some brackets make a skin for it and have it a remote turn on.

How hot can these get before they pop? Lets put it closer to the exhaust so you dont need a bottle warmer!!! :p :p :p

How hot can these get before they pop? Lets put it closer to the exhaust so you dont need a bottle warmer!!! :p :p :p


Your usually very constructive, so what happened? Your better than this.

It's so easy to make fun of others, those possibly lacking the "deep pockets" you and other's have--so would you laugh so quickly if your newly built high-dollar stroker engine fragmented on the dyno?

Why are so many people on this forum becoming so hypercritical of our own kind? It's bad enough that most of us put down every damn vehicle that isn't a Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8, but now it seems all we do is demean each other.

Maybe I'm just becoming overly sensitive with age, but we are some of the biggest *******s of all the forums I visit. We drive a damn Jeep, not a Lamborghini.

And Cobrakid, nice setup. When you get a chance make it look perfect, just like your critics.

You usually very constructive, so what happened? Your better than this.

It's so easy to make fun of others, those possibly lacking the "deep pockets" you and other's have--so would you laugh so quickly if your newly built high-dollar stroker engine fragmented on the dyno?

Why are so many people on this forum becoming so hypercritical of our own kind? It's bad enough that most of us put down every damn vehicle that isn't a Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8, but now it seems all we do is demean each other.

Maybe I'm just becoming overly sensitive with age, but we are some of the biggest *******s of all the forums I visit. We drive a damn Jeep, not a Lamborghini.

Andy Cobrakid, nice setup. When you get a chance make it look perfect, just like your critics.

GRIP GRIP

Why dont you back up a bit.

I truly want to help build a good mount and offered my hand.... The Idea is very good. Just like any prototype bugs need to be worked out.

And my before it pops question its legitimate but a joke at the same time. If we know what temp these can handle we could mount it closer to the center of the jeep. It will heat the bottle to keep up the PSI with out the extra wiring or expense of a bottle warmer. Plus make it easier to remove if put in the location where the spare tire would be.

I am one of the few unbiased, more helpful people on this forum, so don't throw stones at me!!!

Oh, I have noticed a bit more sarcasm in posts the past few days, also more attitudes with a few family members and clients... not me them.... CONCLUSION Look up at the moon!!!

I concur (with Grip Grip). Congrats on the time. Sure does look like it works!

All I am saying is, take a little pride in your ride. If it's worth doing, do it well. Don't show us pics of a half ass set up with duct tape. Show us the finished product so that we can learn from others. Half assing something will return scrutiny. We are all here trying to make something better and share information. Sorry, but that was a half assed install. There I said it. Not to be mean, but we all want something to learn from. I start to question the validity of the posts if everyone rallied around this install and gave it a thumbs up. It makes me question others opinions. My two cents.

I appreciate the early photos you shared with everyone. I don't believe in just showing the end result; it's kind of like other members showing photos of a step-by-step install of any product. Some installs just take longer than others and I appreciate you showing your progress to date instead of holding out until everything is completely finished.

GRIP GRIP

Why dont you back up a bit.

I truly want to help build a good mount and offered my hand.... The Idea is very good. Just like any prototype bugs need to be worked out.

And my before it pops question its legitimate but a joke at the same time. If we know what temp these can handle we could mount it closer to the center of the jeep. It will heat the bottle to keep up the PSI with out the extra wiring or expense of a bottle warmer. Plus make it easier to remove if put in the location where the spare tire would be.

I am one of the few unbiased, more helpful people on this forum, so don't throw stones at me!!!

Oh, I have noticed a bit more sarcasm in posts the past few days, also more attitudes with a few family members and clients... not me them.... CONCLUSION Look up at the moon!!!

Don't pay me any mind, you really haven't done anything inappropriate.

I'm just growing weary of the way fellow JGCSRT8 owner's in general regard other vehicles. I'm just so sick of everyone on here acting like we own million-dollar rides and that everyone else is dirt--that's all. :eek:

I'm also a little jealous of the 1/4 mile times these guys are getting with nitrous. I may have to jump on the bandwagon. :D I AM A BELIEVER! :D

all jokes aside

watch that bottel so it dont pop

I don’t think anybody intends to be down right rude about this but Man, I couldn't agree more. Take pride in your installation, tape underneath and electrical taped wires for the switch just lying there? Ouch even the scratches under the hood.???...:eek:
I know you'll clean it up a bit! And your intentions are great... once you get it all cleaned up, set up a video or something while you hit the button so we can see the boost!!....:)

We drive a damn Jeep, not a Lamborghini.



What is this supposed to mean?:

A) Only Lambo owners can take pride in their vehicles.
B) Only Lambo owners deserve high quality installations.
C) Only Lambo owners can boast about their vehicles.
D) Lambos are the best.
E) All of the above.

Grip Grip needs to come down off his high horse and realize that this is THE INTERNET and nobody elected him to be our president.

Fast and others were being light hearted in their criticism, and Fast offered his OWN TIME to help people. We do not need "guidence" or anything else from Grip Grip.

Nice times man. From looking at your sig I'd think you know what you are doing. Thanks for sharing your ideas on install for those of us who don't want to critique everything.
Bottom line....It's his jeep and he can do what he wants to with it. Unless, of course, you want to make his payments for him.?:D

My issue is not that some people critiqued the install, but that they told him to "take pride in your car". I think the critique is what we are all here for, and I doubt he expected anyone on here to say: "Wow, what a clean install" So everyone just chill the F out.

Now, how bout some suggestions on how Cobrakid, or anyone else doing a similar setup, do a cleaner install.

i have a question for you Cobra, what do you have in terms of bottle brackets there, Just one? How much clearance is there around the top of the bottle.(Ie: is there room for a remote opener?)

Grip Grip needs to come down off his high horse.

Who, me? I aint got no horse. :D But here's one you might like:

(Inappropriate photo removed by Admin)

^lol. I love that horse. What nice tits that horse has.

What is this supposed to mean?:

A) Only Lambo owners can take pride in their vehicles.
B) Only Lambo owners deserve high quality installations.
C) Only Lambo owners can boast about their vehicles.
D) Lambos are the best.
E) All of the above.

That wasn't my point. It has nothing to do with taking pride in your vehicle, my point is that in general, JGC SRT8 owner's on this forum are becoming very judgmental and critical of other vehicles--and now we're turning on each other.

In general, we aren't a forum of multi-millionaires (Lambo owners), so I don't understand why everyone looks down on every other vehicle on the street.

For the record, I don't endorse the open display of electrical tape and/or duct tape when used during automotive nitrous installations.

^Dude, just about every forum i have ever frequented, all have the people that think their ride is better than everything on the planet. Its human nature, some people just suck.

^Dude, just about every forum i have ever frequented, all have the people that think their ride is better than everything on the planet. Its human nature, some people just suck.


Point well taken. Now let's get back to Bo.

WTF!!! thats some ghetto ass ****!!

If I remember correctly, a nitrous bottle pop-off valve is set for about 1300 psi. On a 90* day, I used to see 1100 psi on the bottle mounted on my dragbike just from being mounted about 18" behind the engine. I would be a little concerned about the proximity to the exhaust pipe.
Another point that needs to be thought about is the amount of pressure variation that might possibly be present with that installation. The fuel jetting was calibrated to work within a fairly narrow range of bottle pressure. A pressure variation of 200 psi might cause the fuel/nitrous calibration to fall outside of the "safety" zone. More bottle pressure means more nitrous flow. Without an increase in fuel jet size, you soon have the equivalent of an oxy/acetelene torch in your combustion chamber.

You'll find that the most consistant times will be had if the bottle pressure is the same for every run. Sometimes I had to use a bottle heater & other times I had to drape a towel soaked in ice water over the bottle.

You'll sort it out. I just hope that the price of the knowledge isn't too great.

Another point that needs to be thought about is the amount of pressure variation that might possibly be present with that installation. The fuel jetting was calibrated to work within a fairly narrow range of bottle pressure. A pressure variation of 200 psi might cause the fuel/nitrous calibration to fall outside of the "safety" zone. More bottle pressure means more nitrous flow.




(Serious question) Are you sure about this comment? If you have a jet, say 50HP this jet will never flow more than that. The idea is to keep the PSI up when you start to empty it. So instead of a drop in pressure the heat keeps the PSI up towards full end rather the empty no PSI end.

Maybe i am looking at it like a hose when i should not. No matter how much pressure you have it will only flow as fast at the opening will allow.

:confused: :confused:

I thought the ideal nitrous pressure was about 1000psi in the bottle.

If I have a 75 shot set-up, and the pressure goes to say....even 1200, it
wouldn't be much more than a 85 shot at the most.......(with your theory?)

....but lets keep in mind that most systems and the one currently on my Jeep
is designed to work with about 40psi of factory fuel pressure.
The Jeeps are supposedly 58, so my shot is rich anyway, prolly too rich.

The plugs and gap are high on my list for safety, and I feel, even up to a
125 shot I am ok? I hope.

I fill my own bottles and from past experience, they are at the most pressure
when just filled, or slightly over filled. I am not in the habit of filling them,
and waiting to spray them. I shouldn't have let all of my trick NOS goodies
go with my Cobra, now I may have to buy all the goodies again. The
digital nos pressure display was awesome.

I have also seen results of 2 blow off valve "pops"

My brother in law, put a bottle in a Suburban by the front heater vents to
warm it, and it blew when we were getting a burger. We got back to the
truck and the bottle had moved, and the vent was detached from the
heater duct. That was kinda scary.

Another case, another friend left his bottle in the back of a Stang, in the
hot temperature glaring through the hatch glass emptied the bottle with
no one around. Took a while to figure out that happened, but I wouldn't
want to be in a vehicle when any of that happens.

Goodluck. When used properly nitrous is some cool stuff!

(Serious question) Are you sure about this comment? If you have a jet, say 50HP this jet will never flow more than that. The idea is to keep the PSI up when you start to empty it. So instead of a drop in pressure the heat keeps the PSI up towards full end rather the empty no PSI end.

Maybe i am looking at it like a hose when i should not. No matter how much pressure you have it will only flow as fast at the opening will allow.

:confused: :confused:

I'll expand on your hose idea. If you turn on a garden hose halfway & measure the flow from the hose, you will have a certain volume of water over a set period of time. If you then turn on the faucet full force and measure the volume over the same period of time, you will have a greater volume of water flow. Bottle pressure has a similar effect on nitrous flow. Low bottle pressure equates to less nitrous flow than does high bottle pressure. Most nitrous kits are calibrated so that the combined flow from the fuel jet & the nitrous jet combine to produce a "safe" fuel/nitrous mixture. Now, if your bottle pressure increases substantially beyond the "calibrated pressure", then your mixture will go lean because the fuel jet won't supply more fuel without an increase in fuel pressure OR a change to a larger fuel jet.

Here's an interesting nitrous fact. Nitrous oxide boils at -191* F. The only way that it stays in the liquid state inside the bottle is from the internal bottle pressure that is generated BECAUSE a small amount of the liquid N2O boils INSIDE the bottle & increases the internal pressure to a point that stops the boiling process inside the bottle. As the temperature of the bottle becomes hotter, the internal pressure increases because the internal boiling is greater. Beyond a certain outside bottle temperature, the internal pressure causes the pop-off valve to function.

Okay, I will jump in. As a refrigeration expert, I will offer my opinion. No matter how high the bottle pressure goes, you will not increase flow through a fixed oriface. Just not possible. Now on the flip side, if you substantially decrease the bottle pressure, it will have a negative effect on the flow rate. NOS is in a liquid and gas form in the bottle at a given pressure. It follows a given pressure temperature relationship just like refrigerants. If you draw off the bottle on a run, the bottle will become cold. This is due to lowering the pressure in the bottle. The liquid boils and absorbs heat to reach its equilibrium. Thus a pressure temperature relationship.

Overfilling a vessle can cause busrting due to increased bottle temperature. This can happen with minimal temperature increases is it's trying to reach its equilibrium. That is why you should not fill a vessle over it rated weight. And yes, they should be weighed to ensure propper filling. A normally filled vessle can withstand normal temperatures without bursting. The burst disk is there as a safety so that the bottle doesn't explode under extreme pressure.

There is one additional danger when you are working with NOS verses any other compressed gas. IT'S EXPLOSIVE. If it were to burst next to a ignition source, the whole thing will explode. Not a good practice.

I will say it again, this is what bothers me about some of the posts as there are very impressional people here who use your ideas and trust them. A word of caution when working with compressed gasses, they can kill you if not used correctly or respected. Case in point, a NOS bottle at 1,200 psi will not do too much damage if top is knocked off, however N2 or nitrogen is charged at over 3000 psi in the bottle. If the top were knocked off, it would literally go through a brick wall and not think twice about it.

If you have additional questions, please PM me. I am an expert. The life you save may be your own.

I thought the ideal nitrous pressure was about 1000psi in the bottle.

If I have a 75 shot set-up, and the pressure goes to say....even 1200, it
wouldn't be much more than a 85 shot at the most.......(with your theory?)

....but lets keep in mind that most systems and the one currently on my Jeep
is designed to work with about 40psi of factory fuel pressure.
The Jeeps are supposedly 58, so my shot is rich anyway, prolly too rich.

The plugs and gap are high on my list for safety, and I feel, even up to a
125 shot I am ok? I hope.

I fill my own bottles and from past experience, they are at the most pressure
when just filled, or slightly over filled. I am not in the habit of filling them,
and waiting to spray them. I shouldn't have let all of my trick NOS goodies
go with my Cobra, now I may have to buy all the goodies again. The
digital nos pressure display was awesome.

I have also seen results of 2 blow off valve "pops"

My brother in law, put a bottle in a Suburban by the front heater vents to
warm it, and it blew when we were getting a burger. We got back to the
truck and the bottle had moved, and the vent was detached from the
heater duct. That was kinda scary.

Another case, another friend left his bottle in the back of a Stang, in the
hot temperature glaring through the hatch glass emptied the bottle with
no one around. Took a while to figure out that happened, but I wouldn't
want to be in a vehicle when any of that happens.

Goodluck. When used properly nitrous is some cool stuff!

You're right on....ideal bottle pressure is between 950 - 1000 psi. That's the bottle pressure that kit makers recommend as the pressure to use with their kits because it's on the safe side(pop-off valve) and their kits are calibrated for the fuel jet size at that pressure.
You most likely are on the rich side if the fuel pressure on our GCs is higher than "normal". However, do you think that the kit manufacturer took that into account when they specified jetting for your kit?
Quite often a kit manufacturer will recommend changing to a colder spark plug heat range when you go beyond a certain HP level. I don't pretend to know what that level is for the Jeep, but it might be worth a call to ZEX to find out.
The reason that bottle pressure is higher right after filling is because when a substance is compressed, it heats up. The nitrous transfer pump pressurizes the nitrous when it is pumped from the big bottle to your bottle. The heat causes the higher bottle pressure. After the bottle sits for a while, it probably looses a little pressure.

ps. I also had a Cobra.....03 Redfire, 2.80 pulley, Stainless Works exhaust, forced CAI from the brake ducts, Zex nitrous kit. 540/650 SAE at the wheels.

Okay, I will jump in. As a refrigeration expert, I will offer my opinion. No matter how high the bottle pressure goes, you will not increase flow through a fixed oriface. Just not possible. Now on the flip side, if you substantially decrease the bottle pressure, it will have a negative effect on the flow rate. NOS is in a liquid and gas form in the bottle at a given pressure. It follows a given pressure temperature relationship just like refrigerants. If you draw off the bottle on a run, the bottle will become cold. This is due to lowering the pressure in the bottle. The liquid boils and absorbs heat to reach its equilibrium. Thus a pressure temperature relationship.

Overfilling a vessle can cause busrting due to increased bottle temperature. This can happen with minimal temperature increases is it's trying to reach its equilibrium. That is why you should not fill a vessle over it rated weight. And yes, they should be weighed to ensure propper filling. A normally filled vessle can withstand normal temperatures without bursting. The burst disk is there as a safety so that the bottle doesn't explode under extreme pressure.

There is one additional danger when you are working with NOS verses any other compressed gas. IT'S EXPLOSIVE. If it were to burst next to a ignition source, the whole thing will explode. Not a good practice.

I will say it again, this is what bothers me about some of the posts as there are very impressional people here who use your ideas and trust them. A word of caution when working with compressed gasses, they can kill you if not used correctly or respected. Case in point, a NOS bottle at 1,200 psi will not do too much damage if top is knocked off, however N2 or nitrogen is charged at over 3000 psi in the bottle. If the top were knocked off, it would literally go through a brick wall and not think twice about it.

If you have additional questions, please PM me. I am an expert. The life you save may be your own.

I disagree with you quite strongly. As a 37 year veteran of the fire service, I will tell you that the output from a fixed orifice is ENTIRELY dependant on the pressure at the base of the orifice. Of course, there comes a point where additional pressure will not increase flow but I don't believe that nitrous kit makers calibrate their jetting at that point. I do agree that a decrease in pressure will cause less nitrous flow. If you believe that less pressure causes less flow, why do you disagree that more pressure won't cause increased flow?

By the way....N2O is NOT explosive. It is an oxidizer. That means that it will intensify the burning process because it supplies additional oxygen to cause more rapid oxidation(burning) of a substance.

I disagree with you quite strongly. As a 37 year veteran of the fire service, I will tell you that the output from a fixed orifice is ENTIRELY dependant on the pressure at the base of the orifice. Of course, there comes a point where additional pressure will not increase flow but I don't believe that nitrous kit makers calibrate their jetting at that point. I do agree that a decrease in pressure will cause less nitrous flow. If you believe that less pressure causes less flow, why do you disagree that more pressure won't cause increased flow?

Gee, I don't know. Physics.. Think about it, you have a pool with a 4" drain hole. Will it empty at a faster rate with a full pool or a half full pool? It will empty at the same rate even though with a full pool there is a lot more pressure exerted on the drain. People, this is what I am talking about...

Gee, I don't know. Physics.. Think about it, you have a pool with a 4" drain hole. Will it empty at a faster rate with a full pool or a half full pool? It will empty at the same rate even though with a full pool there is a lot more pressure exerted on the drain. People, this is what I am talking about...

OK...Now cover the pool with an airtight cap & apply 200 psi of pressure to the space above the water. Will it empty any faster then?

OK...Now cover the pool with an airtight cap & apply 200 psi of pressure to the space above the water. Will it empty any faster then?

No, it will not.

No, it will not.

Damn, there went all of the fire hydraulics theories that I have learned.

So you are saying that a gravity drain will empty a vessel at the same rate as a pressurized vessel would empty?

....just a friendly FYI on my kit.

It is a 1999 Nitrous Works f.i. wet kit.

It says right in the directions for cars running 40psi of fuel pressure.

A person on one of these SRT8 sites told me that the Jeeps run at 58psi????
....and I think I read it elsewhere also.

I would hope that some of the new kits marketed specifically for these
vehicles are taking into account the higher stock fp.

I will get my install cleaned up, de-duct, and lean up the fuel jet to be in line
with the correct 75 shot. Especially in the hotter & humid weather.

Will predict some rough 12.2s@110, but that is the best I can foresee until
I can test again in 50 or below temps?

Damn, there went all of the fire hydraulics theories that I have learned.

So you are saying that a gravity drain will empty a vessel at the same rate as a pressurized vessel would empty?

I am not saying that, I am saying that the drain (or orafice) can only accomidate a certain amount of volume flow. Once you reach that point, it will not flow any faster regardless of pressure. In the industry, we call that mass flow.

....just a friendly FYI on my kit.

It is a 1999 Nitrous Works f.i. wet kit.

It says right in the directions for cars running 40psi of fuel pressure.

A person on one of these SRT8 sites told me that the Jeeps run at 58psi????
....and I think I read it elsewhere also.

I would hope that some of the new kits marketed specifically for these
vehicles are taking into account the higher stock fp.

I will get my install cleaned up, de-duct, and lean up the fuel jet to be in line
with the correct 75 shot. Especially in the hotter & humid weather.

Will predict some rough 12.2s@110, but that is the best I can foresee until
I can test again in 50 or below temps?

The colder temps will pose another problem for you if you aren't using a bottle heater.....building ENOUGH bottle pressure. When the temps were in the mid 50s, it would take my bottle heater over 30 minutes to get my bottle pressure up to 950.

I am not saying that, I am saying that the drain (or orafice) can only accomidate a certain amount of volume flow. Once you reach that point, it will not flow any faster regardless of pressure. In the industry, we call that mass flow.

But in your example of the pool you said that it would drain the same with atmospheric pressure(14.7 psi at sea level) as it would with 200 psi through the 4" drain.

But in your example of the pool you said that it would drain the same with atmospheric pressure(14.7 psi at sea level) as it would with 200 psi through the 4" drain.

At atmospheric pressure, it will drain at the same rate. Let's change the example, let's say that's a 3/4" drain instead of a 4". You could put a cap on it with 1000 psi as a head and it will not drain any faster than atmospheric. Due to the flow restriction. I cannot speak to a 4" drain as I don't have any flow charts on it. As an engineer and professional in this field, I would suggest you contact me directly so that you don't further confuse the community. Thank you.

Hey cobra, what jets are you running. And just a fyi your bottle mount will not pass a tech (once they figure out you are on n2o). There is no reason to hide its better to be safe than sorry. My install is very clean you have to look very close under my hood to see anything and I have a very nice polished 15 pound bottle. If I dont want anyone to see it I close my cargo cover and 15 lbs of n20 goes a long way. Let me know what your jets are .

HOLY CRAP!!! I didnt mean for this... I am smarter you are smarter no me!!!

LOL

These kits have to be designed for max pressure. So at full pressure the jet will flow 50HP. Anything above the max pressure you will have backpressure from the jet or you will pop the safety valve. Now if you don't have enough pressure you will slowly decrease the jets effectiveness as the bottle empties.

Just like an anything else there is a limit to the volume.

At atmospheric pressure, it will drain at the same rate. Let's change the example, let's say that's a 3/4" drain instead of a 4". You could put a cap on it with 1000 psi as a head and it will not drain any faster than atmospheric. Due to the flow restriction. I cannot speak to a 4" drain as I don't have any flow charts on it. As an engineer and professional in this field, I would suggest you contact me directly so that you don't further confuse the community. Thank you.

Confuse the community? You can say that and then say that an increase in pressure won't cause a corresponding increase in flow?

Since you changed your example, let me also make a change to the example. Instead of a pool, make it a 1 gallon container with a 3/4" drain. Do you still think that it will gravity drain as fast as if it had 1000 psi of pressure?

HOLY CRAP!!! I didnt mean for this... I am smarter you are smarter no me!!!

LOL

These kits have to be designed for max pressure. So at full pressure the jet will flow 50HP. Anything above the max pressure you will have backpressure from the jet or you will pop the safety valve. Now if you don't have enough pressure you will slowly decrease the jets effectiveness as the bottle empties.

Just like an anything else there is a limit to the volume.

Thank you!! There is life on this planet.. :D

Thank you!! There is life on this planet.. :D

Yes but... JL still rocks;)

HOLY CRAP!!! I didnt mean for this... I am smarter you are smarter no me!!!

LOL

These kits have to be designed for max pressure. So at full pressure the jet will flow 50HP. Anything above the max pressure you will have backpressure from the jet or you will pop the safety valve. Now if you don't have enough pressure you will slowly decrease the jets effectiveness as the bottle empties.

Just like an anything else there is a limit to the volume.

So, what pressure are the kits designed for? 900 psi? 1000 psi? 1100 psi? I think that the burst disk is set somewhere around 1300 psi. So, you think that you won't see full flow from the jet until just short of pop-off?

The reason that bottle pressure lessens as the bottle empties is because the reduced amount of nitrous left inside the bottle can't maintain the bottle pressure during use. Usually that situation starts when the bottle reaches about 30% remaining.
I totally agree that there comes a point where additional pressure doesn't show a corresponding increase in flow.

Yes but... JL still rocks;)

Tell you what, I will say that JL holds a close second to BA. Deal.. :D

Since you changed your example, let me also make a change to the example. Instead of a pool, make it a 1 gallon container with a 3/4" drain. Do you still think that it will gravity drain as fast as if it had 1000 psi of pressure?

This is not rocket science ..... well i guess it depends on what propulsion the rocket uses;) ;)

Before you add pressure to your example the water is just flowing, it is not meeting or exceeding its max. Will the water drain faster with pressure FOR SURE but you I don't care how much pressure you have you will not exceed the volume of the 3/4 drain opening, something else will give before you get more water out of that hole.....

I believe this goes back to blocks as children, you cant force a square through a circle..... well maybe if you have a hammer!!!!:p

:eek: :D

This is not rocket science ..... well i guess it depends on what propulsion the rocket uses;) ;)

Before you add pressure to your example the water is just flowing, it is not meeting or exceeding its max. Will the water drain faster with pressure FOR SURE but you I don't care how much pressure you have you will not exceed the volume of the 3/4 drain opening, something else will give before you get more water out of that hole.....

I believe this goes back to blocks as children, you cant force a square through a circle..... well maybe if you have a hammer!!!!:p

I guess from your strangely worded answer that you agree that pressure will increase flow over gravity and that, after a certain point, additional pressure will not cause a corresponding increase in flow.

I guess from your strangely worded answer that you agree that pressure will increase flow over gravity and that, after a certain point, additional pressure will not cause a corresponding increase in flow.

Yes, how many times do we have to tell you this. The pool example was a simplistic one. Again, not talking about pressure and temperature relationships. Go talk to expert and leave your white hose red thing connecton at the door.

So, what pressure are the kits designed for? 900 psi? 1000 psi? 1100 psi? I think that the burst disk is set somewhere around 1300 psi. So, you think that you won't see full flow from the jet until just short of pop-off?


More than likely they are rating a 50HP jet at almost max pressure. Any pressure above that should give minimal gains if any. I will give you a PSI of 1000 as their test and maybe you can bump it up to 1300 PSI through heat but the change at the Jet will be insignificant, maybe 52HP instead of 50HP.

Just like an audio amplifier they test them at 14.4volts. So unless you change your charging system, battery and have some nice thick wire you will never see the claimed wattage out of it.

SO,It is possible that they test the Jets at 2000 PSI and you will never see the exact claimed HP.

I'm curious...Have either of you guys that are busting my buns ever had a nitrous vehicle?

Yes, how many times do we have to tell you this. The pool example was a simplistic one. Again, not talking about pressure and temperature relationships. Go talk to expert and leave your white hose red thing connecton at the door.

Derwood,

Oddly he is arguing with us but agreeing at the same time.

"I guess from your strangely worded answer that you agree that pressure will increase flow over gravity and that, after a certain point, additional pressure will not cause a corresponding increase in flow."

I never said pressure will not increase flow, I only asked how is it possible to increase the flow/capacity of a given opening.

Okay, I am done. This is the crap I have to put up with out there:

larryc7777 wrote:
You know *******, I've tried to keep this civil. But you are a ****ing idiot. Didn't you just comment in your last message about heat causing the liquid to become gaseous. That's exactly what happens, you ****ing Moron, when you are sitting in staging lanes for an hour. Why do you think that you see nitrous cars expelling a plume of nitrous before they stage. Jesus, why in the **** don't you just go converse on a refrigeration board instead of a performance vehicle board.

The only thing I can say is be careful of the information you take away from this site or any for that matter. There is a ton of good information out there, but there are a uneducated people who ruin if for us all. Just like life I guess. :rolleyes: Topic closed!

I'm curious...Have either of you guys that are busting my buns ever had a nitrous vehicle?

Yes Several, 12.00sec Supercharged MKIII VR6 VW.:)

And a few other that were not fast enough to mention here. :(

Yes, how many times do we have to tell you this. The pool example was a simplistic one. Again, not talking about pressure and temperature relationships. Go talk to expert and leave your white hose red thing connecton at the door.

I don't know how many times you want to tell me that. I agreed with you the very first time that you said it. If you want to continue to repeat yourself, feel free.

Okay, I am done. This is the crap I have to put up with out there:

larryc7777 wrote:
You know *******, I've tried to keep this civil. But you are a ****ing idiot. Didn't you just comment in your last message about heat causing the liquid to become gaseous. That's exactly what happens, you ****ing Moron, when you are sitting in staging lanes for an hour. Why do you think that you see nitrous cars expelling a plume of nitrous before they stage. Jesus, why in the **** don't you just go converse on a refrigeration board instead of a performance vehicle board.

The only thing I can say is be careful of the information you take away from this site or any for that matter. There is a ton of good information out there, but there are a uneducated people who ruin if for us all. Just like life I guess. :rolleyes: Topic closed!

And here's the message that prompted my reply!!

"Are you really that stupid. A purge valve is to purge the line when you change bottles to ensure you have a full column of liquid to the metering device. Nothing more."

Each of the PMs that this idiot sent me were derogatory in some manner. I got fed up with his sh!t.

Cobrakid, sorry to mess up your thread. If you need any further info about nitrous, please feel free to send me a PM.



ps. FastSRT8GC, my last vehicle went 12.02@119.76 on street tires without the nitrous.
The dragbike ran 8.50s@160

And here's the message that prompted my reply!!

"Are you really that stupid. A purge valve is to purge the line when you change bottles to ensure you have a full column of liquid to the metering device. Nothing more."

Each of the PMs that this idiot sent me were derogative in some manner. I got fed with his sh!t.

Cobrakid, sorry to mess up your thread. If you need any further info about nitrous, please feel free to send me a PM.



ps. FastSRT8GC, may last vehicle went 12.02@119.76 on street tires without the nitrous.
The dragbike ran 8.50s@160

LOL, the funny thing is, what you just posted was in reply to what I quoted you sending me. Bottom line, if you don't know what you are doing, keep your hole closed. I don't throw the term "expert" around as a punch line. It's serious. And these are serious posts. You can get someone hurt or even worse killed of you don't know what you are doing. Simple as that!

LOL, the funny thing is, what you just posted was in reply to what I quoted you sending me. Bottom line, if you don't know what you are doing, keep your hole closed. I don't throw the term "expert" around as a punch line. It's serious. And these are serious posts. You can get someone hurt or even worse killed of you don't know what you are doing. Simple as that!

Oh?? I can post all of the PMs that show EXACTLY how each message was replied to. That will show that you are also a liar.

Be sure to be careful of nitrous...it's EXPLOSIVE.:rolleyes:

Private messages should remain PRIVATE!
No one here cares about this "he said this/he said that" childishness....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v615/HEMEEE/Forum%20Graphics/Lgstopsign.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v615/HEMEEE/Forum%20Graphics/Thread-Crapping.jpg


If you wish to continue to post in this thread, please be respectful and stay on topic.
If you want to continue this separate debate, start your OWN thread!

Thank you-

Ok guys, just my 2c.

Nitrous is not explosive it is an oxidizer and when combined with a fuel in a controlled condition(compressed with the fuel in a combustion chamber) will rapidly accelerate the combustion(or oxidation) of the fuel(in this case gasoline).NOS is so effective at achieving total combustion that it is necc to add more fuel when NOS is used(fuel solonoid) in order to assure a lean condition will not occur and allow you to burn added fuel.

I have used NOS for 20 years and will note that NOS Co's rec. each run be at 900psi to assure consistant results and be within safe limits.

I will say I notice my best results at 1000psi and heat my bottle to 1100 psi , then purge down to 1000 at the line.

As far as flow rates here is my take.
An orafice will flow more under pressure untill mass flow is achieved.Simple example. Just disconnect your NOS line at 500 psi, hit your microswitch and observe the plume. Try it again at 1100 psi, much harder hit and larger plume.
Now I believe that there will be a point of mass flow but is it within the pressure range of our test? I can't say for sure but it will happen at some psi.

Guys even with out changing jets I can run 2/10ths quicker by playing with bottle pressure as described above.

My NOS will be finished up next week and I will post pics.

Cobra, congrats on those times and for using NOS,just clean up the loose ends,I think Tech let you slide or was not aware of your NOS.

.......thanks......

tech-wise, what can they say?

Bottle blanket should be here any day.....black.

I am re-doing the interior switch.

Next time at the track, will have it tuned for a true full 75shot.

.....12.2s-12.1s@110 in the 75*-85* heat?

Ok all the installation glitches aside which I hope you'll address, my question is more related to the vertical mounting of the bottle.
Because the suction tube inside the bottle is arranged for a bottle mount that is inclined from horizontal position, have you given any thought to the liquid Nitrous amount under G Force sloshing backwards under launch and unporting to the Nitrous gas?
Yea I know what a 400 shot can do....and it's damn scary

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec2906003.jpg

Jeff

Ok all the installation glitches aside which I hope you'll address, my question is more related to the vertical mounting of the bottle.
Because the suction tube inside the bottle is arranged for a bottle mount that is inclined from horizontal position, have you given any thought to the liquid Nitrous amount under G Force sloshing backwards under launch and unporting to the Nitrous gas?
Yea I know what a 400 shot can do....and it's damn scary

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/Blown7/newpicDec2906003.jpg

Jeff

The syphon tube inside a nitrous bottle is oriented so that it's opening is located in the bottom edge of the bottle that is on the same side as the bottle outlet fitting. In other words, the tube starts in the center where it is attached to inlet valve & then angles towards the specified corner of the bottle. And you are correct....the best bottle mount position is lying on its side, front elevated, parallel with the direction of travel, with the outlet pointed down.
You can mount it vertical as long as you insure that the syphon tube is directly "rearward" to the direction of travel. That way, accelleration forces cause the liquid nitrous to the rear of the bottle where the syphon tube is located. I would consider refilling a vertical mount bottle whenever the nitrous was more than 50% used.

Ok guys, just my 2c.

Nitrous is not explosive it is an oxidizer and when combined with a fuel in a controlled condition(compressed with the fuel in a combustion chamber) will rapidly accelerate the combustion(or oxidation) of the fuel(in this case gasoline).NOS is so effective at achieving total combustion that it is necc to add more fuel when NOS is used(fuel solonoid) in order to assure a lean condition will not occur and allow you to burn added fuel.

I have used NOS for 20 years and will note that NOS Co's rec. each run be at 900psi to assure consistant results and be within safe limits.

I will say I notice my best results at 1000psi and heat my bottle to 1100 psi , then purge down to 1000 at the line.

As far as flow rates here is my take.
An orafice will flow more under pressure untill mass flow is achieved.Simple example. Just disconnect your NOS line at 500 psi, hit your microswitch and observe the plume. Try it again at 1100 psi, much harder hit and larger plume.
Now I believe that there will be a point of mass flow but is it within the pressure range of our test? I can't say for sure but it will happen at some psi.

Guys even with out changing jets I can run 2/10ths quicker by playing with bottle pressure as described above.

My NOS will be finished up next week and I will post pics.

Cobra, congrats on those times and for using NOS,just clean up the loose ends,I think Tech let you slide or was not aware of your NOS.

Is your screen name indicative of your profession?:)
I can tell that you have a good understanding of nitrous systems & look forward to seeing your setup.

If you don't already know about it, here's a great site for nitrous goodies.

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/Scripts/default.asp

Is your screen name indicative of your profession?:)
I can tell that you have a good understanding of nitrous systems & look forward to seeing your setup.

If you don't already know about it, here's a great site for nitrous goodies.

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/Scripts/default.asp

Thanks for the link.
No my screen name is just a screen name I started using a couple years back when I first envisioned the Blown small block 401 AMC powered Jeep CJ 7
My goal in life was to build my first 6-71 blower engine, nitrous injected and I have stuck with the screen name ever since so folks on all the forums I'm on don't get confused with who I am. I have done that so now I'm working on the 426 poked and stroked with a Whipple twin screw.
Last time I googled my screen name I came back with about 600 hits (and no the porn sites aren't mine)

To get back on topic IMHO the stock 6.1 I myself wouldn't really play with
N2O.
Too many variables that just can't be controlled..............yet :)

jeff

I also ran a bungee under the bottle for extra support...

Guys, don't be so hard on the fellow. He is using a bungee for extra support.

I almost pissed myself.

DUDE your leaking coolant from your radiator cap I can see the coolant stains from the pics!!!

Replace that POS OEM one with the Stant!!!!

larry

Yes, 12 years in a very busy house in Arlington Co. VA.my career highlight was 9.11.2001.I was at The Pentagon at 16.27 into the incident and was assigned to (IC)Incident Command helping with logistics.I was bummed at the time not to be assigned to an interior attack crew but in retrospect I got a great assignment with some great tasks. I will always remember that day and how proud I was to serve my community and my country.I recieved alot of nice rewards to always remind me of my firefighting career.I turned my gear about 2 years ago after ending my firefighting career as a 1403 live fire instructor.I still feel lost watching my engine and truck responding lights and sirens,I guess the feeling will never go away.

And as you can tell I do like to play with nitrous.