I'm getting a popping noise/clunk/thud/vibration whenever I first start the truck and ease out of my parking space turning right or left. It will do it only at this time and not after I'm driving around. Could this be another diagnostic bump like the 20-30mph one in the rear end/tranny???

I had similar symptoms, and when I took it in it was a broken steering knuckle.

I'm getting a popping noise/clunk/thud/vibration whenever I first start the truck and ease out of my parking space turning right or left. It will do it only at this time and not after I'm driving around. Could this be another diagnostic bump like the 20-30mph one in the rear end/tranny??? Damn...I am having the dealer look at that noise Thursday when I am scheduled for the TCM / PCM swap & tranny leak.

Broken steering knuckle????:eek:
Bill

Bill, let me know what they find out (if anything)

bru

Totally normal. This situation has been addressed several times - do a search. SRT Engs say your symptoms have something to do with the transfer case when it operates at cold/start-up temperatures.

Totally normal. This situation has been addressed several times - do a search. SRT Engs say your symptoms have something to do with the transfer case when it operates at cold/start-up temperatures. Sorry Black, this is totally different-please READ above posts:mad:. It won't even require a search. Sounds more like a steering knuckle or loose suspension component (which has been addressed--re-torque components to specs). Transfer case??? Totally normal???? WTH???
Bill

Sorry Black, this is totally different-please READ above posts:mad:. It won't even require a search. Sounds more like a steering knuckle or loose suspension component (which has been addressed--re-torque components to specs). Transfer case??? Totally normal???? WTH???
Bill


Sorry, Bill, maybe you should learn how to navigate the Internet :rolleyes:

Quote from SRT Eng's:

"It is not an issue with the transmission. The transfer case performs a "self test" after the car is started and begins to move for the first time and passes through 20mph. If you are more than ~25% into the throttle there is a light 'bump' felt as the front drive is engaged momentarily during the self test. Expect a TSB shortly."

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13233&postcount=2


Here are a few more threads addressing this topic...

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2772&highlight=transmission

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1090&highlight=transmission

Sorry, Bill, maybe you should learn how to navigate the Internet :rolleyes:

Quote from SRT Eng's:

"It is not an issue with the transmission. The transfer case performs a "self test" after the car is started and begins to move for the first time and passes through 20mph. If you are more than ~25% into the throttle there is a light 'bump' felt as the front drive is engaged momentarily during the self test. Expect a TSB shortly."

Please Black drop it and don't show your ignorance!
You STILL have not really read this thread obviously.
The problem we are describing typically happens at less than 1mph backing up, close to lock to lock. It CAN be cycled as many times as one would want to. The transfer case issure is one occurance per drive cycle. Certainly if our issue is transfer case :confused: related, hats off to you, I never would have guessed this.

If you can add something constructive then please do. Otherwise I am tired of reading your "search & navigate" BS.
Bill

There are transmission thuds from P-R, R-1, 1-2, 2-3. My point is background information concerning all of the aforementioned thuds exists if you are willing to use the search function. I never claimed to have the answer, but my posts are bona fide for they provide background information to the problem. Calling me ignorant and using inflammatory rhetoric is fine if you wish, I'm not offended, but it does give insights into your true character. Good luck with the fix.

Totally normal. This situation has been addressed several times - do a search. SRT Engs say your symptoms have something to do with the transfer case when it operates at cold/start-up temperatures.


Hey Black.......from reading this post alone, I gotta go along with Bill here. I think you jumped the gun a bit. The original poster indicated a noise at what must be an extremely slow speed when exiting a parking space, wheel turned right or left.....then went on to indicate he was already aware of the 20-30mph shift thud, and this ain't it.

So........I believe you got it wrong this time. Where is this issue being addressed several times on the forum?

Maybe you should read the first post again.......just a thought;)

Little rough with that comment about learning how to navigate the I-net, don't you think? Particularly if you're aware of all BB has shared with us throughout his posts. Just my 2 cents............

thanks teda



bru

Lets settle this with a simple question.

Drive the Jeep around for 20 minutes or so.
Pull into a parking space and put it in park for 5-10 seconds.
Put it back into reverse and pull out of the parking spot the same way you always do.
Is the sounds still there?

This would let us know if the problem continues to manifest itself after the initial start-up.

I'll test the warm up theory a little more this afternoon/tomorrow.

bru

Lets settle this with a simple question.

Drive the Jeep around for 20 minutes or so.
Pull into a parking space and put it in park for 5-10 seconds.
Put it back into reverse and pull out of the parking spot the same way you always do.
Is the sounds still there? Yes, Houston this is totally repeatable. It can be repeated many times per drive (meaning reverse also of course) cycle.

It seems to be more turn related (near right lock to lock, slow back up then POP) than anything else at this time.
Bill

Bill thats exactly it!!!

bru

Yes, Houston this is totally repeatable. It can be repeated many times per drive (meaning reverse also of course) cycle.

It seems to be more turn related (near right lock to lock, slow back up then POP) than anything else at this time.
Bill
Then I'll put money on a front suspension piece.

I had quite a time with the dealer on this one too! Since I had a small spot of curb rash on my passenger side front rim from mis-judging while parking along a curb I couldnt get it fixed under my extended warranty!!!! Total BS, they said that it was "accident related" and could not be under warranty. All because of a little curb rash. The total for labor and parts was $1027.40. Hopefully something is just loose and not broken as in my case.

is this a loud pop at almost full lock ? Coming from the (Ford) Lightning world, all Lightnings have or have heard the dreaded pop/clunk at full lock. Ford put lower control arm washers on that were smooth and would not bite and hold the adjustment for camber. There were some aftermarket fixes (other washers) and some folks swore all you needed to do was heavily grease the steering stops.

I'm going to see how the Jeep is set up and if this is the same situation. Would be interesting to see if your camber was out of adjustment too. From what you describe, it sounds like same thing, so watch alignment.

Here's the FORD description of the problem:
ISSUE:

A "clunking" sound may be heard on some SVT Lightning F-150 vehicles during parking maneuvers. This may be caused by the steering stops or the front lower control arm pivot attachment point.
ACTION:

Refer to the following Service Procedure to determine the source of the clunk and proper repair procedure.

* If the clunk occurs at full or near-full steering lock, then it is most likely caused by the spindle contacting a dry steering stop on the lower control arm.
* If the clunk occurs at less than full steering lock, then it is most likely caused by movement of the left side lower control arm at the rear pivot attachment to the frame. At the left rear attachment point only, the frame is slotted to allow for caster adjustment during vehicle assembly. Excessive frame wax, insufficient clamping force, and high loads (due to large wheels and tires) can cause the arm to slide in the slot.

NOTE:THE LIGHTNING HAS UNIQUE FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARMS. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE LIGHTNING AND STANDARD F-150 4X2 CONTROL ARM IS THE STEERING STOP. THE LIGHTNING STEERING STOPS ARE WELDED ON WHILE THE STANDARD F-150 4X2 STOPS ARE RIVETED ON. THE ARM, BUSHINGS, AND BALL JOINTS ARE THE SAME.
SERVICE PROCEDURE


STEERING STOP CLUNK



Lubricate control arm steering stops and contact points on the spindle on both sides of the vehicle with Teflon Lubricant (D2AZ-19590-A). CONTROL ARM MOVEMENT CLUNK



Replace rear inner pivot fasteners on front left hand lower control arm with two (2) new "toothed" washers and related fasteners. These washers have teeth around the circumference to prevent movement.

1. Raise vehicle on drive-on lift.
2. Support left lower control arm at the rear bushing with a jackstand.
3. Remove left rear lower control arm nut, washer, and bolt. Retain bolt.
4. Remove the staked washer from the bolt. This can be done by holding washer in a vise and tapping the bolt through.
5. Clean the frame area around the washers, on both sides, with solvent and a wire brush.
6. Reassemble using the old bolt (washer removed), a new Nut (N800237-S427), and toothed Washers (W707896-S427), one on each side of bushing, making sure bolt is centered in slot.
NOTE:THE WASHERS MUST BE INSTALLED WITH THE TEETH TOWARD THE FRAME.
7. Torque nut to 190 N-m(140 lb-ft).
8. Remove jackstand.
9. Recoat frame with Ford Super Seal Aerosol Anti-Corrosion Compound (F3AZ-19515-SA) to prevent corrosion.
10. Check front end alignment, adjust if necessary using specifications included in this article. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 204-00 for alignment procedures.

F-150 LIGHTNING ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONSItemLHRHTotal/SplitCamber-0.5°-0.5°0° +/- 0.7°Caster6.7°7.2°-0.5° +/- 0.7°Toe (positive value is toe-in, negative value is toe-out)-0.05° ±±±+/- 0.15°-0.05° +/- 0.15°-0.10° +/- 0.25°

PART NUMBERPART NAMEW707896-S427Washer (Toothed) (2 Required Per Vehicle)N800237-S427Nut (M16x2.0 Hex Flange Locking)F3AZ-19515-SASuper Seal Anti-Corrosion CompoundD2AZ-19590-ATeflon Lubricant


Dave
2007 Black JGCSRT8

The Harley F150s were prone to this as well. "Clunk washers" were the fix.

is this a loud pop at almost full lock ? Coming from the (Ford) Lightning world, all Lightnings have or have heard the dreaded pop/clunk at full lock. Ford put lower control arm washers on that were smooth and would not bite and hold the adjustment for camber. There were some aftermarket fixes (other washers) and some folks swore all you needed to do was heavily grease the steering stops.

I'm going to see how the Jeep is set up and if this is the same situation. Would be interesting to see if your camber was out of adjustment too. From what you describe, it sounds like same thing, so watch alignment.

Here's the FORD description of the problem:
ISSUE:

A "clunking" sound may be heard on some SVT Lightning F-150 vehicles during parking maneuvers. This may be caused by the steering stops or the front lower control arm pivot attachment point.
ACTION:

Refer to the following Service Procedure to determine the source of the clunk and proper repair procedure.

* If the clunk occurs at full or near-full steering lock, then it is most likely caused by the spindle contacting a dry steering stop on the lower control arm.
* If the clunk occurs at less than full steering lock, then it is most likely caused by movement of the left side lower control arm at the rear pivot attachment to the frame. At the left rear attachment point only, the frame is slotted to allow for caster adjustment during vehicle assembly. Excessive frame wax, insufficient clamping force, and high loads (due to large wheels and tires) can cause the arm to slide in the slot.

NOTE:THE LIGHTNING HAS UNIQUE FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARMS. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE LIGHTNING AND STANDARD F-150 4X2 CONTROL ARM IS THE STEERING STOP. THE LIGHTNING STEERING STOPS ARE WELDED ON WHILE THE STANDARD F-150 4X2 STOPS ARE RIVETED ON. THE ARM, BUSHINGS, AND BALL JOINTS ARE THE SAME.
SERVICE PROCEDURE


STEERING STOP CLUNK



Lubricate control arm steering stops and contact points on the spindle on both sides of the vehicle with Teflon Lubricant (D2AZ-19590-A). CONTROL ARM MOVEMENT CLUNK



Replace rear inner pivot fasteners on front left hand lower control arm with two (2) new "toothed" washers and related fasteners. These washers have teeth around the circumference to prevent movement.

1. Raise vehicle on drive-on lift.
2. Support left lower control arm at the rear bushing with a jackstand.
3. Remove left rear lower control arm nut, washer, and bolt. Retain bolt.
4. Remove the staked washer from the bolt. This can be done by holding washer in a vise and tapping the bolt through.
5. Clean the frame area around the washers, on both sides, with solvent and a wire brush.
6. Reassemble using the old bolt (washer removed), a new Nut (N800237-S427), and toothed Washers (W707896-S427), one on each side of bushing, making sure bolt is centered in slot.
NOTE:THE WASHERS MUST BE INSTALLED WITH THE TEETH TOWARD THE FRAME.
7. Torque nut to 190 N-m(140 lb-ft).
8. Remove jackstand.
9. Recoat frame with Ford Super Seal Aerosol Anti-Corrosion Compound (F3AZ-19515-SA) to prevent corrosion.
10. Check front end alignment, adjust if necessary using specifications included in this article. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 204-00 for alignment procedures.

F-150 LIGHTNING ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONSItemLHRHTotal/SplitCamber-0.5°-0.5°0° +/- 0.7°Caster6.7°7.2°-0.5° +/- 0.7°Toe (positive value is toe-in, negative value is toe-out)-0.05° ±±±+/- 0.15°-0.05° +/- 0.15°-0.10° +/- 0.25°

PART NUMBERPART NAMEW707896-S427Washer (Toothed) (2 Required Per Vehicle)N800237-S427Nut (M16x2.0 Hex Flange Locking)F3AZ-19515-SASuper Seal Anti-Corrosion CompoundD2AZ-19590-ATeflon Lubricant


Dave
2007 Black JGCSRT8

Dave,
Very helpful!!!
I will print this out and take to my dealer on Thursday.
Bill

UPDATE.... well since the daily popping noise what I've done for the last 5 times starting the truck is to let it idle/warm up for at least 2-3 minutes when it has been a cold start ,and much to my surprise the noise does not happen. So could it just be a function of not reaching a certain temp? I will continue to monitor and update.

bru

UPDATE.... well since the daily popping noise what I've done for the last 5 times starting the truck is to let it idle/warm up for at least 2-3 minutes when it has been a cold start ,and much to my surprise the noise does not happen. So could it just be a function of not reaching a certain temp? I will continue to monitor and update.

bru
Mine just did it twice in the past hour, backing into a clients driveway to turn around.

Leaving a parking spot and driving real mellow without a full warm -up, the truck made a small pop. Same noise as before only 1/3 to 1/4 as louid.


bru

After driving the truck for the past two weeks my conclusion is that the noise has to be some kind of first start/diagnostic noise.I can usually get it to do it without a long warmup.Back out or drive forward turn wheel sharp and wait for it............pop! Large or small depending on how warm the car is. Once car has been driven and started a few times(without completely getting cold) the truck won't seem to do it or it is hardly noticeable.

b

its normal