What is the the fastest a stock Jeep srt 8 has gone in the quarter??

What is the fastest a moded jeep srt 8 has gone in the quarter??


When you answer include how many miles are on the jeep,the weather conditions and any mods..

The fastest mine ran stock was a 13.22 @102 in 63-65* weather with 1k on it, and with the Volant CAI and 180* tstat I ran a 13.067 at 102 in 63-65* weather with a little over 2k on it.

Ide say Mark (bevs) has the fastest with mods, he pulled a 12.4 with heads cam, headers and cats.

As for me best ive done in 58 degree and a positive DA was 12.8 with a 1.7 60' that was with a 180 Tstat, coolant at 185 at race time, headers, cats, CAI.

My best all around was my 12.5 at Atco in a great weather day negative DA, no truck prep, stock Tstat. 3/4 tank of gas, Kooks headers, Cats, CAI.

All mods listed in my sig. Im awaiting my B&G Stage 2 and GSM spacer install hopefully to be completed by next weekend. I just had my secondary o2 sensor heater fail P0038 DTC, ugh!!

i ran 13.20 @ 103.5 with a 1.86 60 ft----3/4 tank of gas and it was about 60 degrees out---1,300 miles on the truck---going to do a volant intake and 180 t/stat then see where were at

....I modded the front scoop, did the brake duct mod, 170* stat, pulled
fuse and went 12.85@104.5 w/1.79 60ft is that stock? 1/4 tank of gas and
a 48* day at a sea level track. 752 miles on truck.....first pass ever.

Inferno,How much do you think the b&g will help?

Inferno,How much do you think the b&g will help?

Honestly, I really dont know. But it has revised the timing fuel curves at WOT and hopefully with my mods right now the tune will wake up what ive done to the truck so far, I know this it cant hurt.

But I can guarantee you this, an honest opinion if anything.

I look at it like this, a buddy of mine used to call me up a few years ago when they were test muling these puppy's in Michigan in heavy heat, and used to tell me they were running low 12's (12.2's to be exact) in 80-90 degree Michigan heat. With that said they have detuned these for emission etc to make it street legal, there is alot of power hiding in the ECU's and with the right combo of mods these trucks have alot more to offer IMHO.

Well I have the same mods as you and I hope you're right...I really hope some other companies step up and try to tune this engine...I would pay lots $$ for a second in the quarter:D

BevsJeep has gone 12.2@109.9 so far with H/C, B&G, full exhaust, and CAI/filter. God bless the beta tester :)

BevsJeep has gone 12.2@109.9 so far with H/C, B&G, full exhaust, and CAI/filter. God bless the beta tester :)

thats a killer time for anything that weighs 4800pounds!!!!!!! especially an suv.

thats a killer time for anything that weighs 4800pounds!!!!!!! especially an suv.


Sure is, especially w/out a real tune.

13.20 @ 106....1.7 60 foot- 600 ft track level- 80 degree's

2006 1/2 tank gas

Bad News.....................Mods

Hennessey Heads-918 Springs-Decked .028" for 11:1 Compression-94 octane
268 Cam
HHP TCM
B&G Stage II
Flowmaster Exhaust
K&N CAI
Ceramic Coated & Ported Upper Intake
Stock Headers-Stock T-stat

I don't get why its so slow..............STUPID TRUCK!:mad:

13.20 @ 106....1.7 60 foot- 600 ft track level- 80 degree's

2006 1/2 tank gas

Bad News.....................Mods

Hennessey Heads-918 Springs-Decked .028" for 11:1 Compression-94 octane
268 Cam
HHP TCM
B&G Stage II
Flowmaster Exhaust
K&N CAI
Ceramic Coated & Ported Upper Intake
Stock Headers-Stock T-stat

I don't get why its so slow..............STUPID TRUCK!:mad:

your going to hear people say its because you have HENNESSEY heads... i think thats BS. somthing was not put togther correctly or somthing man. this is not correct at all. i know there where some other people with simular problems... check your air filter.... very sorry to hear this... i feel for you im doing heads and a cam very soon and i would be losing my mind if this is what happened to me!!!!!!!!

your going to hear people say its because you have HENNESSEY heads... i think thats BS. somthing was not put togther correctly or somthing man. this is not correct at all. i know there where some other people with simular problems... check your air filter.... very sorry to hear this... i feel for you im doing heads and a cam very soon and i would be losing my mind if this is what happened to me!!!!!!!!


Hennessey heads are not done in house by him. they are sent out and CNC then hand smoothed. The airfliter is fine, if I had put a bag around the filter and sealed it I would hve negative results....this is not my first vehicle build up. I had my dealer do the cam to spec, the heads have been on for a year now....they were a pilot set. I still think its the tune...or lack of......gotta keep pluging away and stay positive......fighting the urge to BURN it to the ground

good luck please keep us posted

My best was 13.213 @ 103mph. Weather was 70*F with a half tank of gas. Totally stock.. no mods... and around 5K miles.

I love this truck! Hope someone figures out a tune.. then I'm going supercharged. :)

13.20 @ 106....1.7 60 foot- 600 ft track level- 80 degree's

2006 1/2 tank gas

Bad News.....................Mods

Hennessey Heads-918 Springs-Decked .028" for 11:1 Compression-94 octane
268 Cam
HHP TCM
B&G Stage II
Flowmaster Exhaust
K&N CAI
Ceramic Coated & Ported Upper Intake
Stock Headers-Stock T-stat

I don't get why its so slow..............STUPID TRUCK!:mad:

You may be having the same problem as me. Get someone to check the voltage of your knock sensors at idle. Mine were putting out over a volt at idle--that is as high as it should register at full throttle. THis causes the computer to retard timing, which leads to slow truck.

I don't know if I cured mine yet, but I put teflon tape on the knock sensor threads and decresed their torque.

Seems to have worked, but I haven't tested it at the track on or a starscan yet.

You may be having the same problem as me. Get someone to check the voltage of your knock sensors at idle. Mine were putting out over a volt at idle--that is as high as it should register at full throttle. THis causes the computer to retard timing, which leads to slow truck.

I don't know if I cured mine yet, but I put teflon tape on the knock sensor threads and decresed their torque.

Seems to have worked, but I haven't tested it at the track on or a starscan yet.

Anthony, That is solid advice. The fast ramps/strecthed uneven durations of a cam can cause this problem(w or w/o misfire codes= pulled timing). A B&G even throws more timing in, It pings(detonates) and pulls timing. This whole DC PCM thing is a royal PITA. IF you have a scanner(data logger), you can actually see timing being pulled. This B&G increase(then decrease) in timing is why some feel that the tune degrades over time-which in reality it's more related to the knock sensors. I have been dealing with this issue myself. BTW-have you ever noticed that resetting the PCM(erase adaptives) helps, then it occurs all over again, unless this is addressed.

Anthony, That is solid advice. The fast ramps/strecthed uneven durations of a cam can cause this problem(w or w/o misfire codes= pulled timing). A B&G even throws more timing in, It pings(detonates) and pulls timing. This whole DC PCM thing is a royal PITA. IF you have a scanner(data logger), you can actually see timing being pulled. This B&G increase(then decrease) in timing is why some feel that the tune degrades over time-which in reality it's more related to the knock sensors. I have been dealing with this issue myself. BTW-have you ever noticed that resetting the PCM(erase adaptives) helps, then it occurs all over again, unless this is addressed.
GC...now you see why I am about to pull the crank back out and totally start over with user friendly electronics. The boys should be spanked for ever coming out with electronics this bad.
'06 electronics = bad;:mad:
'07 electronics = worse;:mad::mad:
'08 one can only imagine what they will come out with.= (probably "AH" revision)!!http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/images/icons/icon8.gif:mad::mad:
Bill

GC...now you see why I am about to pull the crank back out and totally start over with user friendly electronics. The boys should be spanked for ever coming out with electronics this bad.
'06 electronics = bad;:mad:
'07 electronics = worse;:mad::mad:
'08 one can only imagine what they will come out with.= (probably "AH" revision)!!http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/images/icons/icon8.gif:mad::mad:
Bill


'08 = T304 Stainless Chastity Belt. Mopar is allegedly going to bring out a key, but not until '11.

Anthony, That is solid advice. The fast ramps/strecthed uneven durations of a cam can cause this problem(w or w/o misfire codes= pulled timing). A B&G even throws more timing in, It pings(detonates) and pulls timing. This whole DC PCM thing is a royal PITA. IF you have a scanner(data logger), you can actually see timing being pulled. This B&G increase(then decrease) in timing is why some feel that the tune degrades over time-which in reality it's more related to the knock sensors. I have been dealing with this issue myself. BTW-have you ever noticed that resetting the PCM(erase adaptives) helps, then it occurs all over again, unless this is addressed.
Hey, Anthony could run the beast on a dyno...wouldn't the power "sag" caused by the timing pull show up on the graph (and on the data logger of course) at certain rpm's?
Bill

Hey, Anthony could run the beast on a dyno...wouldn't the power "sag" caused by the timing pull show up on the graph (and on the data logger of course) at certain rpm's?
Bill

Bill, When it pulls timing, it's over the entire rpm band. I don't think a dyno would show a significant sag, just a weaker curve. Generally, it's not as strong outta the hole and top end power starts to sag (50mph up or so),b/c now it's more retarded than normal. Some B&G dynos have a sag, but it's most likley related to torque managment intervention at high rpm shifts.(can happen sometimes unless completly removed-then u cant hook up-duel edged sword) I have not been a happy camper lately, If I can't get this ***** to run like a bat outta hell all the time, I'm going to a different cam profile and back to the OEM PCM. GC

Hey, Anthony could run the beast on a dyno...wouldn't the power "sag" caused by the timing pull show up on the graph (and on the data logger of course) at certain rpm's?
Bill

One day I ran on a Mustand AWD dyno and got over 400 to the wheels.

Two days later on a Dynoject 2WD dyno I only got approximately 370 to the Rear wheels! An hour later we checked the voltage on the knock sensor and got the high reading. I'm convinced the the knock sensor was hindering my fun, why is it so sporatic?

Some days the tires will spin forever, but the next I can barely get them to chirp. I'll keep digging and post what I discover.

The way this thing responds to performance upgrades is a puzzle to me.

Hey, Anthony could run the beast on a dyno...wouldn't the power "sag" caused by the timing pull show up on the graph (and on the data logger of course) at certain rpm's?
Bill

I did and it doesn't show any abrupt change. The timing retard is killing power on a linear curve, therefore it's identical, just lower in all respects.

Anthony

I did and it doesn't show any abrupt change. The timing retard is killing power on a linear curve, therefore it's identical, just lower in all respects.

Anthony

It's sporadic b/c of the # of drive cycles in between. I'm usually pissed by then, so I don't keep up with it.

Yet another reason SCT needs to put out a product.

gculver are you not happy with the B&G Stage 2, is it screwing with the timing all the time? I see you said it overrides the torque managment.

gculver are you not happy with the B&G Stage 2, is it screwing with the timing all the time? I see you said it overrides the torque managment.

Inferno, This is more of a cam issue with ramps,durations & overlaps. I have had 3 B&G tunes, Dave tests the outer limits with timing. If I continue to run it, I will have him remove a bit(personal perference). It does have reduced TM. On a stocker(no hard part motor changes) you will be OK. If it pings(b/c of timing) it will pull timing, just like running ****ty fuel.

Inferno, This is more of a cam issue with ramps,durations & less overlap. I have had 3 B&G tunes, Dave tests the outer limits with timing. If I continue to run it, I will have him remove a bit(personal perference). It does have reduced TM. On a stocker(no hard part motor changes) you will be OK. If it pings(b/c of timing) it will pull timing, just like running ****ty fuel.

Oh man this is going to drive me its as well. Thanks for your input. My B&G is on its way.

Hey guys does anyone know who this is

www.unleashedtuning.com

I have e-mailed him and he says that they have a tune but are trying to make a handheld for us. I am not sure if he has any mods on the Jeep.









Oh man this is going to drive me its as well. Thanks for your input. My B&G is on its way.

Let me know the difference you feel with that b&g:)

Inferno, This is more of a cam issue with ramps,durations & overlaps. I have had 3 B&G tunes, Dave tests the outer limits with timing. If I continue to run it, I will have him remove a bit(personal perference). It does have reduced TM. On a stocker(no hard part motor changes) you will be OK. If it pings(b/c of timing) it will pull timing, just like running ****ty fuel.
Holy smokes GC...I have been following your progress as we have communicated. Damn, now I am really confused and it isn't the vino this time! I'm sure you are checking the Nopar :confused:sites for a cure!
Bill

Let me know the difference you feel with that b&g:)


Will do.:D

Bill, When it pulls timing, it's over the entire rpm band. I don't think a dyno would show a significant sag, just a weaker curve. Some B&G dynos have a sag, but it's most likley related to torque managment intervention at high rpm shifts.(can happen sometimes unless completly removed-then u cant hook up-duel edged sword) I have not been a happy camper lately, If I can't get this ***** to run like a bat outta hell all the time, I'm going to a different cam profile and back to the OEM PCM. GC

I disagree.......a dyno will in fact show a dip in the chart when it detonates....I have seen this many times.....especially as an example when tuning my E55 while changing boost levels or a tune with aggressive timing......again it will show up in the powerband. You will see it dip the climb and you may see it dip again on its way to redline.

Traction Control and Torque Management I strongly believe are two different systems. I can totally disable my Traction Control BUT Torque Management still shuts down the timing and throttle position during shifting points......as clearly seen under acceleration while in WOT on a scanner.

I disagree.......a dyno will in fact show a dip in the chart when it detonates....I have seen this many times.....especially as an example when tuning my E55 while changing boost levels or a tune with aggressive timing......again it will show up in the powerband. You will see it dip the climb and you may see it dip again on its way to redline.

Traction Control and Torque Management I strongly believe are two different systems. I can totally disable my Traction Control BUT Torque Management still shuts down the timing and throttle position during shifting points......as clearly seen under acceleration while in WOT on a scanner.
Is that with the B&G??
Bill

I hate to tell you guys this......these "generic" tunes are great for changing shift points......some more timing.....idle....and now the infamous Torque Management during WOT so the engines and trannies last forever. B&G has a good generic performance tune that works........to a point!

Bottom line when you start changing valve timing (overlap/duration) via bigger camshafts......the all important vacuum signal or HG curve these ECU's are preprogrammed to "SEE" that also affect important sensors that affect overall driveability, no longer see the values required. You would be better off with a cam with more lift.....maybe some minor increase in duration/overlap but you need to consider what the affects will be on changing the Volumetric Efficiency curve and the changes to the Manifold Pressure Sensor and air flow sensors. Those preprogrammed tables are seeing fluctuations and the system is trying to overcompensate in either direction to keep HC, CO and NOx in predetermined/preprogrammed check.

The camshaft may also be exceeding the injector duty cycle......have you dynoed ON THE SAME DYNO EACH TIME (who cares about the BIG number) and measured to make sure you are at least seeing a 12.7:1 a/f ratio?

Again, I keep stating.......learn from the motorcycle and rice burners....without a custom ECU or lap top access to the program so it can be tuned on a dyno or at the track (if you have the luxury of running it that many times)......to see "real time" running conditions and make the required adjustments.....with all due respect B&G is kind of making hit and miss changes......I do believe they (B&G) can only modify so much and as we have all heard DCX has proprietary "tables", especially Federal emission tables we are not going to have access to for a very long time.

I'm glad you guys are the "Pioneers".....

13.20 @ 106....1.7 60 foot- 600 ft track level- 80 degree's

2006 1/2 tank gas

Bad News.....................Mods

Hennessey Heads-918 Springs-Decked .028" for 11:1 Compression-94 octane
268 Cam
HHP TCM
B&G Stage II
Flowmaster Exhaust
K&N CAI
Ceramic Coated & Ported Upper Intake
Stock Headers-Stock T-stat

I don't get why its so slow..............STUPID TRUCK!:mad:

UPDATE-- DA Corrected Time 12.76 @ 110.29mph 1.70 60 ft.....little happier....not much though:confused:

You should still be in the low 12's........

UPDATE-- DA Corrected Time 12.76 @ 110.29mph 1.70 60 ft.....little happier....not much though:confused:


That's a lot better. No headers?????


Brendan

Hey guys does anyone know who this is

www.unleashedtuning.com

I have e-mailed him and he says that they have a tune but are trying to make a handheld for us. I am not sure if he has any mods on the Jeep.

This is my buddy Torrie (tmcphail on here). He is the one who dynos my Jeep and yes there is going to be a handheld available very soon.

Sweet!!!Wish it was out right now:(

You may be having the same problem as me. Get someone to check the voltage of your knock sensors at idle. Mine were putting out over a volt at idle--that is as high as it should register at full throttle. THis causes the computer to retard timing, which leads to slow truck.

I don't know if I cured mine yet, but I put teflon tape on the knock sensor threads and decresed their torque.

Seems to have worked, but I haven't tested it at the track on or a starscan yet.

Where is the knock sensor located at? I will try and fiddle with mine also, will scan it before and after and post results.

Thanks for the advice

Where is the knock sensor located at? I will try and fiddle with mine also, will scan it before and after and post results.

Thanks for the advice


There are two, one on each side underneath the heads/headers.

I've used the smt6 to tune A/F and timing after cam changes. It works fairly well but I wish the table was settup at finer increments and it's still tough to get anything bigger than a comp 273 or KRC220 cam to idle. It also works well to lean it back out after instaling larger injectors. One more thing you can only pull timing but you can't add any. I'm trying to get around this by using a toner ring I made that is clocked for a 10 degree advance and then use the smt6 to pull the timing back to something reasonable. I'm still building that engine though.

I've used the smt6 to tune A/F and timing after cam changes. It works fairly well but I wish the table was settup at finer increments and it's still tough to get anything bigger than a comp 273 or KRC220 cam to idle. It also works well to lean it back out after instaling larger injectors. One more thing you can only pull timing but you can't add any. I'm trying to get around this by using a toner ring I made that is clocked for a 10 degree advance and then use the smt6 to pull the timing back to something reasonable. I'm still building that engine though.
Hey Stu,
The toner ring, that's the ring on the crank that triggers the sensors??
Bill

Otherwise known as the crank position sensor reluctor wheel. I have been making them out of 4142 chrome molly for awhile because some of the early truck 5.7's had rings that were failure prone so I thought why not do a 6.1 ring and tweek the timing some. I'm going to put it in the 414 thats going into Scotts truck. I'm a little concerned that I will throw a cam/crank misallignment code but if I do I will use a offset keyway on the crank gear to fool the cam pos sensor and then set the actual camshaft timing back with a bushing that won't affect the cam sensor. Should work? I wouldn't try it on someone elses customers car though.

Stu, Any thoughts on reducing the ocasional P0300 code while running a cam(mainly at idle), besides reducing the torque on the knock sensors or changing cam profiles. Thanks GC.

That occasional P0300 code seems to pop up occasionally with most cams no matter how well it's tuned. If theres a solution, I don't know it.

I pulled a few 11.60's today!! I'll post tomorrow under a new thread w/Vids!!!:D

I pulled a few 11.60's today!! I'll post tomorrow under a new thread w/Vids!!!:D

N/A or spray? If nitrous, how big of a shot and what did you run N/A? Nice work Mark!

N/A or spray? If nitrous, how big of a shot and what did you run N/A? Nice work Mark!


He called me right after he ran, it was with a 100 shot.

He called me right after he ran, it was with a 100 shot.

Thanks Tony. I believe that makes him quicker (with stock shortblock) than "that guy" with a built motor and STS turbo. ;)

Man that is crazy fast for an suv...

The rest of the world doesn't know it yet but the Hemi has more potential than the LSx engines. We are just starting to get competitive with the hemi trucks and the chev guys are calling BS on our runs because they don't think 5.7L, 5000 pound Ram trucks can run in the 12's. They don't know that it's just going to get worse for them. In 6 months they will be playing catchup and won't. There are a few obsticles like adjustable rockers so we can run real springs and cams and it will be all over.