Well it took a few months for me to line someone up, but through some contacts, was able to find a guy not far outside of Toronto who is a fabricator that builds race cars for CASCAR (Canadian Stock Car Circut). Has been building hitches since before Reese and Hidden were around and everyone got custom fabricated hitches. Nowe he builds full race car frames and this project was a little "simple" for him, but he was happy to do it.

I have been looking to design a true "hidden" hitch, but one that was at least a Class III rating with a 2" receiver so that I could tow my boat as well as attach a motorcycle carrier to the receiver and haul my bike.

My original idea that some of you may remember me posting had the hitch receiver up by the floor pointing toward the ground and used an "L" removeable draw bar attachment to bring the receiver out under the exhaust. The idea being that if this piece was removed, the hitch could not be seen. The problem was that the guy who built my hitch didn't like the design because he said it would not be strong enough for what I needed.

We followed this principle though and still installed a receiver back behind the exhaust and at about the height of the tailpipes so that it could not be seen when looking at the truck, but points toward the tailpipes. Then we designed a bar with about a 2" drop that attaches up underneath and behind the tailpipes, but comes out below and in between the exhaust. This gives me a 2" receiver that will accept a standard draw bar with a trailer ball, or will accept my motorcycle carrier (or any bicycle rack). There is also a round loop for safety chains.

We also bulid a separate bar that hooks underneath as well, but this one longer and will have a trailer ball on the end which can be used when I am towing the boat. The idea of this is there will be no need to futher attach a draw bar with a trailer ball, so there will be one less joint to make noise while towing. I will attach 4 pics in this post and 8 more in the next 2 posts.

This setup is exactly what I have been wanting, it is very strong, braced at the side subframe rails and also at the back bumper where there are 2 - 9/16" metric equivalent bolts to tie into. This gives a triangle "T" design. Best of all, when the bar is not attached for the receiver end, no one would know there was a hitch on my truck. Again, the guy who fabricated this builds race car frames by hand and knows his stuff. Sorry for the dirt....

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This is the first bar I had built that will sit flush with the bumper and accept any 2" draw bar. The one in the pic is a drop down, which I don't need, but its all I had for the pictures. I also didn't pin anything in for the pics.

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This is the 2nd bar I had made that will take a trailer ball direct.

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That's one bad azz mamma jamma Kramsay!

nice clean hitch install.. me likey

Any way to get a side picture, with the hitch tongue installed? I would like to know about how low the big nut part under the hitch ball will be (area between the lowest point of the hitch ball and the floor).

Any way to get a side picture, with the hitch tongue installed? I would like to know about how low the big nut part under the hitch ball will be (area between the lowest point of the hitch ball and the floor).

That would depend on which receiver bar I use. If I use the longer one with the trailer ball already on it, it would be about 14" fromt he ground (this is from memory of when we were building it so would have to remeasure to be precise).

If I use the shorter receiver that stops even with the bumper, this would allow me to use a standard Reese or any other store bought drawbar, then it could be any height you would like because you can buy drawbars that are straight out, ones that drop and ones that rise.

Wow that is nice. How much did this run you? How would any of us go about getting something like this made?

Wow that is nice. How much did this run you? How would any of us go about getting something like this made?

If you find a local fabricator and show them the pics, they should have no problem. With all the planning I was doing, the actual design ended up being very simple. Its about a 31" piece of 2" bar across the back and you have to drill through the side subframe on both sides to bolt it up. The piece from the exhaust hangers down is about 24" if I remember. He welded on steel plates on all three ends, and the plates were positioned as shown in the pics for strength purposes. The piece to accept the receiver is notched to account for the downward angle of the front to back support so it can be welded fully and will face straight out. Then you build the drawbars and your are hauling. Took about 4-5 hours and only ran me about $400.00. All I am missing is 2 nuts for the two bolts (roughly 9/16) beside the exhaust hangers because I believe they are metric M14 (?????) and local stores didn't have them.

And as a bonus, the shorter bar to extend out even with the bumper fits in the tool storage area behind the rear seats and the factory velco holds it nicely in place. The other side nicely holds a Reese or whatever drawbar with your trailer ball attached.

Ok I am sold. This looks great only I wish you could get the maker of this to make one for me. Or just planed out drawing, so I could get local welder to do the work. I would, and most likely others also, pay for help to build this.

All I have to say is you better wear gloves if you decide to unhook your trailer that is unless you plan to let the trailer sit hooked up till it cools off.
I have the class 1 reciever in srt and the exhaust is so hot that it melted through the safty cables on my trailer, and mine sits above the pipes. your pipes aim right at the ball.

I still say this is the best I have seen and would like help to get one. Thanks for the post at the very least

Nice job. Looks extremely solid. I thought about putting one below the exhaust, but I didn't want anything getting hot other than the exhaust like my bike rack when it's attached. So mine is above the exhaust and cuts into the rear fascia lip only. It would be easy enough to hide with a black cap too.

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/gallery/data/500/thumbs/IMG_0197.jpg

All I have to say is you better wear gloves if you decide to unhook your trailer that is unless you plan to let the trailer sit hooked up till it cools off.
I have the class 1 reciever in srt and the exhaust is so hot that it melted through the safty cables on my trailer, and mine sits above the pipes. your pipes aim right at the ball.

Thump - no doubt I will not be rushing to unhook the coupler after a couple of WOT bursts, but I can say that I have been hauling my bike quite a bit lately, see link:

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4277&highlight=bike

and the exhaust points at the bottom of the rack and partially toward my lower fairings, and I have not had any problems with heat. I also have the Reese draw bar I showed in one of my pics turned the other way to be a 2" rise, so if I use that instead of the bar with the ball on it, the ball is above the exhaust. I also use safety chains, so those puppies won't melt!:D

Ron - I will give you any assistance you need if you find a custom welder. The design is VERY simple. The guy did it from scratch in about 3 hours with me standing there talking to him and bugging him. The pin for the receiver section under the truck can be hooked in just buy squatting down and reaching under as well. So no lying on the ground required.

Ok I will find someone to do the work and get back to you Thanks again Ron

I dont suppose anyone in Edmonton Alberta Canada is intrested in doing a setup like this? its killing me that my "LIBERTY" is now pulling my boat. :( it would be nice to get the whole family out in the new SRT.

Nicest hitch install I've seen. Nicely done Kevin. You've been hauling the bike tray around for awhile now- obviouselt it'll heat up, but how hot would you say it gets up to? Never thought of putting a hitch on...til now

good job man :)

The bike sits right back there and the fairings are still in tact on the bike and I have never felt the Versahauler be hot. I have never noticed an issue of any kind heat wise when I am hauling the bike. The pics in my Bike thread are not great for showing the height, but you might get the idea:

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4277&highlight=jeep+bike

The only thing that gets hot is if I am towing the boat. The release on the trailer coupler gets warm and I have a Master locking coupler pin that you don't want to grab hard after hauling down the highway. But thats it. I could avoid this by using the receiver bar that just leaves the 2" opening below the tips and then using my Reese Draw bar with an "uprise" so that the trailer ball is above the exhaust tips. Then there would be nothing. But I like the one I had made to take the hitch ball because its one piece and heat has not been an issue anyway.

You don't want to put your trailer wires in front of the exhaust tips though, but since the factory harness is off to the drivers side, they are not in the way at all.

There is someone is Calgary that has one of my hitches - MoPower if you want to look at his. He lives on Highfield Circle SE.

Here's a thread of it pulling a bike with a Kendon trailer too that will show you a side angle.

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5703&highlight=Kendon

I dont suppose anyone in Edmonton Alberta Canada is intrested in doing a setup like this? its killing me that my "LIBERTY" is now pulling my boat. :( it would be nice to get the whole family out in the new SRT.

here ya go

http://www.thetruckoutfitters.com/

several locations in Edmonton. :D

that is pretty cool!!

Thanks...works for me.

that is pretty cool!!

How does the srt8 do with the tongue weight? your bike and carrier probably weighs at least 400lbs, and your boat looks pretty big so it may have a little more on the tongue.

I'm at looking at building a custom hitch to pull 4000-4500lbs with my wife's srt8 jeep.

hi kramsay
is this hitch for sale

You gotta find one used. His maker doesnt make them anymore as far as ive seen. Very occasionally you can find one pop up in the for sale section. The usual advice is to take pictures and this design to a hitch maker close to you and have them make you one.

....what Yogi said...A good fabricator should be able to whip one up for you.

I posted a bunch of pics of my kramsay hitch in another thread. Use the advanced search with keywords "kramsay hitch" and my username and you should find what you need to give to someone to fabricate the hitch or something very close in design.

Is there plans for this hitch availible anywhere? So I can get it fabricated? I am from the land downunder, downunder.

Keep searching for kramsay and one of the threads has pics. I have one, I've been using it all week. Works great. If you can't find the thread I'll take measurements later in the week.

Check out this link-saw some hitch drawings in it for fabrication.
http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43489

Cheers Mate