Anyone have any input on breaking in a new GC SRT8?
I've read in some posts that you're initial driving habits set the perameters on the computer. Is that the case?
Do the factory breaks need bedding?
Is it a good idea to change all of the fluids (especially transmission) after break-in period?
I've got an 08 coming and I'm getting rid of my '07. Don't want ot make any mistakes with the new one.

Thanks!
Khach

How did you break in your 07? When is your 08 coming?

2 schools of thought...1. Follow the manual. 2. Beat on it from day one.

My advice, follow the manual, go easy for a few hundred, some full throttle from a roll, change your oil at 3 months...have fun. Everyone is different.

I took it easy with my 07 until about 700 Km.
I think I'll do it different this time from what I hear.
Does anyone know how you can wipe out the settings on the computer and re-calibrate it with new driving habits.

When I raced Bikes, the whole break in thing was very specific. Not so simple with cars.

As for the 08, They're telling me September this year. They've got a few people lined up for my 07 already.

Khach

2. Beat on it from day one.

+1..........

I'd probally beat the crap out of it from day one if i had to do it again. The motor is already run at the factory so its broken in. The only reason I think they make you take it easy is for the drivetrain parts to set in. But if it costs horsepower taking it easy than screw that, if it breaks its under warranty.

You're right!
That's the route I'm taking second time around.

Khach

Why are you getting rid of an 07 for an 08? If you mentioned it in another post, I missed it.

I'd probally beat the crap out of it from day one if i had to do it again. The motor is already run at the factory so its broken in. The only reason I think they make you take it easy is for the drivetrain parts to set in. But if it costs horsepower taking it easy than screw that, if it breaks its under warranty.

every new motor has a break in period...yes it is run at the factory but not enough for everything to be seated 100% so yes you technically should take it easy on it for a while.. but being no one will hold onto these trucks long enough for the warrenty to run out just beat the **** outta it andhave fun

mine....beat it from day one, with progressivly increasing rpms & loads. And I changed the oil at 100mi.

I'm getting an 08 cause I like the new features like touchscreen nav and HID headlights and possibly a push button start. The nav is the thing that drives me batty. I hate using that dial know and puching letters in one at a time with it.
Khach

As far as resetting the driving maps, on my 2000 WS6 (OBDII), we would just unhook the battery and that would clear it. Then how you drive it for the first few drive cycles would determine the fuel trims and things.
As far as break in, I think how you break them in determines how the engine treats you later down the road. I broke my truck in for the first 1,000 miles. I think the manual says 300, then ease on to full throttle during highway driving, but certainly not from a stop for at least 500 miles. As everyone has said, we're all different. Your driving habits and the computer's learning is reprogrammable after you break it in, so I wouldn't worry that if you don't beat it up from the start that it'll be slwoer than others.
JT

I'm getting an 08 cause I like the new features like touchscreen nav and HID headlights and possibly a push button start. The nav is the thing that drives me batty. I hate using that dial know and puching letters in one at a time with it.
Khach

Pushbutton starts are worthless to me, unless you never have to take the key out of your pocket.

I'd love to have factory xenons though.

Alex

Who knows hoew the push button will be setup - if at all.
Lots of other upgrades though, that make it worth while.
Is it for sure that the battery disconnect will erase "everything"?
How long do you have to leave it unhooked?

Thanks for all the help everyone!



Khach

Taking a $5k+ hit to get Xenon's and touchscreen Nav?

Then comes the for now confirmed 09 6.4L 500+hp beast.

That to me is worth upgrading for.

I don't know about everywhere else, but here in Toronto you can't get a black srt8 easily.
The dealer has someone ready to take over my lease. I lose nothing and I get the first 08 that comes in. I call that a good deal. Especially since my lease was 0 down.
That's the plus side of keeping good relations.

Who knows hoew the push button will be setup - if at all.
Lots of other upgrades though, that make it worth while.
Is it for sure that the battery disconnect will erase "everything"?
How long do you have to leave it unhooked?

Thanks for all the help everyone!



Khach

Unhook the battery and hit the brakes to drain the power and any remaining charge. That will ensure that all the charge is gone, and is the easiest way to reliably drain the power. It shouldn't take too long, I think I did it for a few mins on my Subie just to make sure.

Pushbutton starts are worthless to me, unless you never have to take the key out of your pocket.

I'd love to have factory xenons though.

Alex

Ditto on above two points.

This "reverting" to push buttons must come from some of the guys who are to young to remember the 40's and 50's. Lookout Alex, next we'll be back to the button in the floor along with the dimmer switch. Think about it...that way we could free up our hands for cellphones and Blackberry's too. :D

When I raced Bikes, the whole break in thing was very specific. Not so simple with cars.
Khach

Hmmm..

What was so "specific" on your "race bike" as opposed to any other engine? If anything I would think it to be "less specific" as race engines are re-built after every run (well - if you want a chance of winning).

Run it like you want to drive it .. you can have an engine completey stoked in 100 miles if you want. Conversely, you can kill an engine's potential within that same 100 miles; if you want

What type and class of bikes did you race, Khachi?

Unhook the battery and hit the brakes to drain the power and any remaining charge. That will ensure that all the charge is gone, and is the easiest way to reliably drain the power. It shouldn't take too long, I think I did it for a few mins on my Subie just to make sure.


On most newer vehicles, engine and trans "driver style" programming is stored in flash, so unhooking the battery will not clear it.

Stored on Flash is what I've heard and that's what I'm affraid of. I heard you need to hook up to a computer and re-calibrate or wipe out the settings.

Used to race Motocross and mostly 2-strokes. Raced 125 intermediates and you're right; every second or third race the top end would come off of the motor. Know them inside out and if you fail to break them in properly, it's easy to seize the engine or score the piston. Used to do alot of engine mods on 2-strokes, especially porting and polishing. Easy to get more power out of those babies.


Anybody know a way to clear the flash if that is indeed the case?


Khachi

If anyone has a service manual, there might be a procedure you can do that is related to checking for trouble codes. I know on my Murano I can do that with a sequence of key and gas pedal actions.

That being said, you can probably replace the programming with what you want by driving it hard for a while. It doesn't learn for 500 miles and then stop learning.