:confused: I need some advice on what products to use to wash, wax, and polish my brand new 2007 Red Rock Crystal JGCSRT8 from Champion. I don't think I need to wait a while since the build date is 11/06, although it only had 27 miles on the odometer when Don delivered it to me here in Plymouth, CA.
The number of new wash/wax/polishing products on the market make it a bit of a crap-shoot so I'm looking for info from SRT8 folks who have experience with using the NEW (or GOOD OLD) products and are willing to share their knowledge and experience.
Thanks for your time! Barrie34 :D

Zaino. Great protection, eye popping shine and with the new ClearSeal, its not labor intensive. Sal knows what he is talking about and provides great customer service. Plus I like to support "the little guy".

Zaino is all you need.

http://www.perfectautofinish.com/

Order your products from Gary. He is a Supporter on the 300 Forum....great guy...make sure you clay it first. I did for the first time....what a difference.

Meguiers....not expensive and great products
wash with dish soap-only when doing this routine...anyother time use NXT wash-dont forget fender wells and undercarriage
absorber to dry
clay bar
paint cleaner
polish
wax-gold class or NXT

thats just a basic start

hint-to keep the fender wells black longer use a power washer to wash them then apply black spray paint(be careful with overspray)

I use strictly Adam's Polishes. They are based out of the LA area. Check them out. If you're not totally happy, they refund 110% of the purchase price. I switched to them about 4 years ago and never have looked back. The key is just finding something you like. All of the high end products will treat you relatively the same.

only wish I was thinking about washing and waxing. Just made it though a nor-easter so the roads are covered with sand and salt yet again. And they just started to look ok. The jeep is back to the salt bath.

only wish I was thinking about washing and waxing. Just made it though a nor-easter so the roads are covered with sand and salt yet again. And they just started to look ok. The jeep is back to the salt bath.


I dont move mine in snow, it sits in the garage salt free. :cool:

Has anyone out there used STAR SHINE and does it work as advertised? If it did not, any problem getting a refund? Also, do you recommend a CLAY BAR treatment on a fresh, perfect paint job like the one on my JGCSRT8?
Thanks again for your input!

Has anyone out there used STAR SHINE and does it work as advertised? If it did not, any problem getting a refund? Also, do you recommend a CLAY BAR treatment on a fresh, perfect paint job like the one on my JGCSRT8?
Thanks again for your input!

How can I say this diplomatically......There are no perfect paint finishes so use the Clay bar.

I have made a very good living in the Car wash and Detail bizz for over 20 years. have detailed alot of stars cars, and what I tell any one that ask, any thing MEGUIERS is good and easy to use. Try to stay away from waxs that have cleaners in them. Only use them if you have scratches.

I clayed my car the first week I had it and you should have seen the rail dust that came off the paint.

I have used the Klasse line for years. Very happy.

Alex

Just a word of caution on claybar. I've used blue clay magic on my vette and viper upon delivery and they worked great. But then again, both were yellow and couldn't see much swirl marks. I decided to use a yellow clay bar from zaino on my black 335 and it F'ed it up big time. So, becareful on the grade of clay and follow the instructions carefully. Then my dealer decided to do a courtesy wash using leftover rags from china, totally killig my new paint. Luckily, 3m swirl mark remover and Porter cable saved it.

SB, what do you think of the 335? I have not drove one but my wife is now starting her campaign for the Convert when it comes out. She saw pics of it in the BMW mag that comes. Listing to some on the BMW forum, they are beating SRT's and M3's with it.

SB, what do you think of the 335? I have not drove one but my wife is now starting her campaign for the Convert when it comes out. She saw pics of it in the BMW mag that comes. Listing to some on the BMW forum, they are beating SRT's and M3's with it.

Shodanusmc - 335 is great. It's my wifes car and she's been a BMW fanantic for years. Previously, she had a 03 M3 (6 speed) but she prefers the 335 given it's decent power and comfort. We got ours at Patrick BMW even though she bought both of her previous cars at Field BMW (they didn't allow any discounts at that time). They are easily tuned - for around $1300 you are looking at 350 rwhp with an auto good enough for low 13 to perhaps 12s in quarter. I think mags have tested stock at 4.8 sec 0-60. Here's a pict with aftermarket rims:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48494

I would like to remind all of the JGCSRT8 folks of my original thread (before it was "High-Jacked" by Shodanusmc and sbkim) was about Washing, Waxing, Polishing my new JGCSRT8!! I am still looking for input relative to my original thread... PLEASE !!!!! Thanks, Barrie34

Another vote for Zaino. Check out their website. Great stuff!!

Check out detailedimage.com
Here is what I use as a 5 year veteran of true detailing
First, buy a Porter Cable 7424 and get orange, white, black and maybe a blue pad for it (tough to find, but great for sealers and wax)
I use Poor Boy's products and Mequiars gold class soap.
I wash, clay bar (use a fine bar to be careful), Poor Boy's SSR 2.5 or 2.0, then Poorboy's SSR1 or P21S (very thin and easy to get sloppy), and then I highly recommend Menzerna Full molecular Jacket sealer. After that I usually use P21S carnauba, but just as a thin protective coat because the Menzerna is so tough and has a gorgeous shine.
All of these except the wax (and the clay bar, duh) can be applied with the P/C and removed with a microfiber towel (very important and don't even think of using a home cotton towel!!!)
A couple more tips, buy a tub of wheel wax and apply it after cleaning your wheels. I recommend taking them off and cleaning the barrel too if you are applying this. After it, you can use 2 ounces of Simple Green in a 16 ounce bottle (the rest is water) and just about rinse all the dust right off. Keep a couple old towels around to dry your wheels and one that really never gets washed to apply tire shine (don't use a spray, I guarantee the mist will float and get on your paint and wheels) spray it on a rag or use a tire dressing gel.

Read the detail university links on the web page above and you will learn a lot. I know there are other products out there that are probably just as good as the ones that I prefer, but I like fair priced products that go on and come off easily. Good luck and feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

PS- go to e46fanatics.com and go to the detailing forum for a lot more useful info.

:)

Poorboys is GREAT stuff. You're the first person outside of FordTruckWorld that I've run into that uses it.

Anyway-- yes, GET A P/C or some other random orbital. It will save you TONS of time, and help keep your paint in top form.

Hint: label the backs of your applicator pads and only use one product per pad for the life of the pad.

Hint2: (I'm a huge believer in claybarring) when you get your claybar, but it in half, and only use half at a time. Be sure you remold and stretch it regularly, to avoid hurting your paint. When you can start to SEE grit build up in the clay, even after stretching and remolding it, go to new clay, BEFORE YOU CAN FEEL THE GRIT.

are you guys that are recommending the P/C actually using an orbital on your black vehicles? I am not keen myself let alone recommending to anyone who has never used one to every take a buffer to black paint. Swirl marks just waiting to happen.

Does anyone have some tips for using the P/C on black and avoiding all swirls?

are you guys that are recommending the P/C actually using an orbital on your black vehicles? I am not keen myself let alone recommending to anyone who has never used one to every take a buffer to black paint. Swirl marks just waiting to happen.

Does anyone have some tips for using the P/C on black and avoiding all swirls?

They have few other good articles to get you started. Just make sure you get the correct pad and good polish - I like 3m swirl remover

http://autopia-carcare.com/inf-pc7424.html

Try the detailedimage.com link I posted earlier and click on Detail University.
Orbitals do not cause swirl marks, people using dirty pads, on dirty cars with inferior materials do. Don't make shortcuts, do your research on how to use the tool and follow instructions from the pros and you will be fine. I have 2 black BMW's that I wash every other week and detail once a month with the same chemicals and tools and I could easily shave in the finish and look at them under flourescent lights without seeing swirls.

www.turbowax.com

I absolutely use and have used the P/C on many black vehicles. As mentioned above..... it's the equipment and product that will scratch the paint.

And I'm another believer in the 3m line of scratch removers.

im surprised no one here has reccomended the collinite, used for airplanes and boats mostly, and It lasts for a month at least, more than I can say for carnuba

First post but felt I could offer something here. I'm working with Don on an '07 but will more than likely order one so I won't be "official" for 6-8 weeks (hehe). Anyway -

I like Mothers stuff. Its a great consumer line. Meguiar's is also a great line. The input on using a clay bar is spot on as long as you have the patience to do so. About once a year on claying is all that is required. Keeping a beautiful finish is not an easy task - it requires a significant amount of dedication.

BTW - I've never seen any pro looking for a show finish use a P/C 7424. My take is it's great (I have one) for the "hobbyist" but if you want that perfect shine you can't beat a Dewalt or Milwaukee 7"/9" polisher copuled with pro pads and chemicals (I'm a 3M guy although have gotten good results with U-Pol as well). They are EXTREMELY dangerous in the hands of a novice though.

I think the bottom line here is the following:

1. How much time and effort am I willing to put into it?
2. What results am I looking for?
3. Is a "factory new" shine good enough?
4. Do I trust my abilities enough to really attack it?

Unfortunately, I have never seen any OMG-WOW factor in paint that didn't require dedication, patience, and an incredible amount of time and effort. I f I had to pick a quick solution I would go with Mothers Carnuba, Zymol Carnuba, Meguire's Carnuba (seeing a pattern here?) or any other Carnuba based wax. Avoid ANYTHING silicone or polymer based. It will look great for about 3 mos. and then it will degrade rapidly. Might as well wipe the vehicle down with WD-40.

My .02 is all. Look for a few questions from me on focused topics - any help will be appreciated. Great board, great folks on the board (from my lurking) - hope to join the family soon.

Rich
(vmaxxer)

Zaino is all you need.
Roger that T


Flex