Like the title says which one is better,performance,life of the tranny,cost wise they will equal out for me with the cost of the install of the valve body.At some point i will have both but for the first step which way is the better way first.

Thanks

Newfie.

Like the title says which one is better,performance,life of the tranny,cost wise they will equal out for me with the cost of the install of the valve body.At some point i will have both but for the first step which way is the better way first.

Thanks

Newfie.


I bet you get more "votes" on the Valve Body. That is the way I would go with your mods

Im up in the air because the higher shifts will help alot with my cam and no TM is nice too.

Newfie.

Thats a hard choice to make.

I did the stage 2 valve body first only cause it was on the market first.

I think they work very well with each other and the sum is greater than the two parts separate.

We need to have someone who did the TCM tune without the valve body upgrade chime in on how the jeep shifts.

I'm sure tom or andy, and bill can give more info on how they work together.

Tony

Guess it depends on your future mod plans as well, may want to get that planned out

Guess it depends on your future mod plans as well, may want to get that planned out

I more or less play it by air,if i see somthing i like ill think about it and think about it then buy it or get your guys thoughts on it.

Newfie.

Valve Body, hands down. Anytime you can use the stock electronics then do so, modifying the valve body is a no-sh1t hydromechanical change to the transmission. The TCM is like your mother in law, it can talk all it wants, but in the end its hydraulic pressure that gets the job done.

both together work nice minus raising the line pressure on the TCM mod. ;)

well i have the TCM and i love it. as far as how it was with my mods before the difference is night and day. i have never had a valve body replaced so i cant really say if that is better. i think eventually i will get a new valve body but i dont plan on any more big mods anytime soon. gl with you decision

Heres the question will the tranny and valve body mods help in ET N MPH with just a CAI,CMR DYNO TUNE AND 180 STAT MODS?

Heres the question will the tranny and valve body mods help in ET N MPH with just a CAI,CMR DYNO TUNE AND 180 STAT MODS?
Of course, the less mods you have, the more the TCM and VB will help.

Thats a hard choice to make.

I did the stage 2 valve body first only cause it was on the market first.

I think they work very well with each other and the sum is greater than the two parts separate.

We need to have someone who did the TCM tune without the valve body upgrade chime in on how the jeep shifts.

I'm sure tom or andy, and bill can give more info on how they work together.

Tony

Ive been told that BB really swears by the TCM tune and with the valvebody they really work well.





Valve Body, hands down. Anytime you can use the stock electronics then do so, modifying the valve body is a no-sh1t hydromechanical change to the transmission. The TCM is like your mother in law, it can talk all it wants, but in the end its hydraulic pressure that gets the job done.

Winston, I agree 99.9999% with you on this, the .0001% I see different is that the TCM is removing TQ reduction which no matter how much hydraulic pressure you have, the raised line pressure doesnt do crap if the computer is pulling power.



Of course, the less mods you have, the more the TCM and VB will help.

Curious to see what somebody with a cam like you would gain with a TCM

BTLFED indeed you brought up the point about, what I'm guessing, is torque management. Torque is not measured, its calculated. Which means other parameters, like airflow, are measured and then Torque is reduced to a value. When power is pulled, its pulled at the engine. You dont need a TCM to stop torque management. My TCM calls for torque management all the time, but the PCM is not listening. You just have to give your PCM earmuffs.

Im still at a lost for what to buyLOL,i like the thoughts of shifting at 6500rpm and buying both is not possible right now for me.

Thanks for the help.

Newfie.

Valve Body, hands down. Anytime you can use the stock electronics then do so, modifying the valve body is a no-sh1t hydromechanical change to the transmission. The TCM is like your mother in law, it can talk all it wants, but in the end its hydraulic pressure that gets the job done.

Thanks Winston!
Driving my rig tonight was like the 1st day I drove it home from the dealer...what a difference.
I do sell the TCM's and they are good for the guys with HEAVY mods that demand higher shift points.

Every day driving, the Valve body 1st and then the TCM.

Hey...what about the tranny brake, LOL!:):)
Bill

Ive only heard good things from Eddie at Southern Hot Rod, but I can tell you first-hand that Buider Billīs Tranny and Valve Body upgrades are AMAZING and will feel more aggressive when it has to!

I went for the Tranny and VB all at once and am one happy customer!

BTLFED indeed you brought up the point about, what I'm guessing, is torque management. Torque is not measured, its calculated. Which means other parameters, like airflow, are measured and then Torque is reduced to a value. When power is pulled, its pulled at the engine. You dont need a TCM to stop torque management. My TCM calls for torque management all the time, but the PCM is not listening. You just have to give your PCM earmuffs.

Winston,
Have you ever looked at an EGS file? There is TCM based TM in our EGSs, up to 60% of overall powertrain TM can be found there, and nothing you do to the PCM via OBD will do anything about it.

No knock against Bill he's got great products (that we carry) no question.

The advantages to the TCM are that we can raise shift points (take advantage of area under the curve for those with blower, turbo, nitrous, cam, H/C, etc), eliminate tq management (great for stockers through blown 426s), and we refine part throttle drivability (ie allow for quicker WOT and quicker (both faster and requiring less pedal travel to trigger) and smoother part throttle downshifts) just like we do with CMR/PCM tuning.

The good news is our Tuning works with Bill's valvebodys/trannys/drivelines with no issues so if you choose you can have the best of both worlds. :cheers:

cant wait to get the valve body ....

Solenoids get the same thing done as the valve body mod, just cheaper.

Instructions and price are easy.

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24038&highlight=solenoids

Solenoids get the same thing done as the valve body mod, just cheaper.

Instructions and price are easy.

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24038&highlight=solenoids

Absolutely incorrect!
The modified valve body was designed by gauging each and every clutch pack and torque converter and lock up clutches.
It was shocking to see where the blue top solenoids were increasing pressure, such as the torque converter. Yeah, with over double the pressure to the converter, the blue tops LOWERED stall speed.

I have sold over a dozen of the modified valve bodies just to the guys that bought the blue tops.
One guy stated the blue tops. on downshifts, were like dropping your car in 1st gear at 40mph.:eek:
Big difference.

Oh well....
Anyway, if a guy has the money, it would be nice to buy the Stage II modified valve body and the calibrated TCM (any shift rpm) as a package.
Bill

Obsoletely incorrect!


That's cute, reminds me of your kevlar clutch days.

My downshifts are firmer, but 40 mph in first gear is hyperbole. It works.

Obsoletely incorrect!
The modified valve body was designed by gauging each and every clutch pack and torque converter and lock up clutches.
It was shocking to see where the blue top solenoids were increasing pressure, such as the torque converter. Yeah, with over double the pressure to the converter, the blue tops LOWERED stall speed.

I have sold over a dozen of the modified valve bodies just to the guys that bought the blue tops.
One guy stated the blue tops. on downshifts, were like dropping your car in 1st gear at 40mph.:eek:
Big difference.

Oh well....
Anyway, if a guy has the money, it would be nice to buy the Stage II modified valve body and the calibrated TCM (any shift rpm) as a package.
Bill
Complete BS bill! Give the smoke and mirrors a break.

That's cute, reminds me of your kevlar clutch days.

My downshifts are firmer, but 40 mph in first gear is hyperbole. It works.

Woops...thanks.
Spelling corrected.
Bill

Wow thanks for the MB link, I got the number an a local mercedes dealer can get me those solenoids for $325 with tax

Wow thanks for the MB link, I got the number an a local mercedes dealer can get me those solenoids for $325 with tax
Perfect...if you want the Mercedes solenoids, do like every one else, go to the Mercedes dealer.
Bill

Solenoids get the same thing done as the valve body mod, just cheaper.

Instructions and price are easy.

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24038&highlight=solenoids

Have you had both? I have, no comparison!!

Wow thanks for the MB link, I got the number an a local mercedes dealer can get me those solenoids for $325 with tax

Get them they work great. $325 is a great price! More reasonable than the construction guy valve body!

Wow thanks for the MB link, I got the number an a local mercedes dealer can get me those solenoids for $325 with tax

Hope you dont drive in taffic, the first gear downshift feels like you shifted into first gear at 40 mph!!

Hope you dont drive in taffic, the first gear downshift feels like you shifted into first gear at 40 mph!!

Come on. It's not that bad.

Come on. It's not that bad.

All right maybe 30 mph, but I dont miss the clunk!!

All right maybe 30 mph, but I dont miss the clunk!!

Hmmmmm...

Clunk?

Hmmmmm...

Clunk?

I drove with this valve body back and forth to work for 7300 miles before I cracked the crank in my 426. The clunk I was referring to was when slowing down and downshifting, especially into first, I would feel the shift like a jerk or clunk, even Bill said to use autostick in traffic so as not to be annoyed by this. Bill wasn't happy with it so he reworked the valvebody and upgraded me. Couldn't be happier!

Get them they work great. $325 is a great price! More reasonable than the construction guy valve body!

Woah sparky, I dont know what Bill does to the VB so I cant comment but this is $175 cheaper than you were selling em for. Kinda the pot calling the kettle black.

Woah sparky, I dont know what Bill does to the VB so I cant comment but this is $175 cheaper than you were selling em for. Kinda the pot calling the kettle black.

So I am not supposed to make a profit? Hmmm... Remember that our price is $500 which is STILL lower than his valve body.

Anyway... Get them you will like them.

Woah sparky, I dont know what Bill does to the VB so I cant comment but this is $175 cheaper than you were selling em for. Kinda the pot calling the kettle black.

In your rush to cheerlead and use a trite cliche, you missped the point of the words that were typed. There is not pot and kettle there. And if we're going to get into calling out markups, Sparky, well, then, let the games begin.

George you are my idiol!...lmfao!!

Your the only guy with a the skirt in this thread, I have no horse in this race. Im not defending Bill or saying the valvebody is better, I have no cart in this race. As for my spelling and gramar, sue me :thefinger:

There is a difference between markup and price gouging eyes out, remember Katrina and Rita

So I am not supposed to make a profit? Hmmm... Remember that our price is $500 which is STILL lower than his valve body.

Anyway... Get them you will like them.

Hmm careful there! I can get those same AMG blue top solenoids for $197 with a quick google search. Making a profit is one thing but 250% markup is a little excessive.

Hmm careful there! I can get those same AMG blue top solenoids for $197 with a quick google search. Making a profit is one thing but 250% markup is a little excessive.

That is a price for 1 solenoid. 2 are required.