For those of you that have done audio upgrades, can you tell me approximately how much mounting depth you have behind the doors? Could I fit a driver with a 3" mounting depth in there without touching the windows?

Thanks for any info you can share.

-7

For those of you that have done audio upgrades, can you tell me approximately how much mounting depth you have behind the doors? Could I fit a driver with a 3" mounting depth in there without touching the windows?

Thanks for any info you can share.

-7

Front door speaker mounting depth = 3 1/16"

I put JL audio ZR components in the front doors and XR's in the back. no depth issues. you do have to build a plate though as from that picture the factory speakers are 6x9's.

I wish I could hear an upgraded audio system in one of our Cherokees, I am very hesitant to spend the bucks on components without a clear demonstration of benefit....

Awesome, this is just what I was looking for.

I'm thinking about going with the CDT component system and not sure about amps yet. Looking at the new Alpine Class D for space saving or Zapco if things get serious.

There is also a new alpine OEM interface/processor PXE H650 that could be interesting, but it hasn't come out yet.

Thanks for the info!

-7

I wish I could hear an upgraded audio system in one of our Cherokees, I am very hesitant to spend the bucks on components without a clear demonstration of benefit....

Hehehe!!!

Wait until I get my GCSRt

you will have plenty of pics and instruction.

I have all the equipment but no GC.
heres the lineup
Alpine
IVAD310-dvd monitor
Pxah700-Processor
JL audio
300/2-amp right front bridged
300/2-amp left front bridged
1000/1-amp
13w7-sub
Boston acoustics z6 components
0/1 wire
Fiber optic cable
Monster cable RCA's
Alumapro 15 farad cap

Fiberglass install with led lighting and plexi amprack
etched cargo/amprack cover

sealed/ported hybrid sub enclosure

and Tons of install time.

Just you guys wait.......

I pulled everything out of my totalled E320.
Sucks to have wasted all that work just to have my car tboned.

Again, Just wait and see!!!!

I have upgraded all my door speakers. Front Diamond Speakers and Rear Alpine. I have a AudioControl LC6 (I have OEM NAV Unit) to a 1200 watt 4 channel Alpine Amp. Both are wired into the rear storage compartment clean install. I am going to add a 2 Channel 500 watt Zapco amp with a 12 in a custom box in the read quarter panel hopefully soon. As of now it sound amazing. Clean highs mids but bass could use improvement overall, hence 12, hopefully. I did go ahead and install dynamat on all the doors to help reduce some road noise and increase sound quality (also muffle the exhaust cut-outs for the passengers) but I would say it is worth every penny. I don't mean to offend anyone but any of the stock speaker mediocre at best, even the Boston's. It sounds okay to those who don't own/haven't/been in a car with a truly upgraded speaker system. That being said I am sure you wouldn't be disappointed at all.

hap...if you don't mind what's it cost, less the sub, it's amp, and the dynamat?

I went the route of just upgrading all speakers and adding a compact sub. I am extremely pleased with the results, although I did spend a lot on the speakers.

Here is a link (see post #13):

Stock Speaker Replacement?? (http://www.***********/forums/showthread.php?t=933)

When adding subwoofers (powered or with a dedicated external amp), did you guys run seperate, dedicated power to the amps from the battery? or did you tap off something nearby?

I can't imagine that the factory 12V wires hanging around back there would be much more than 16 gauge, much too light to support a large amplifier (or even a small one like a bazooka powered sub).

Please let me know your thoughts.

Sorry Drive like you stole it, Um I want to say it was about 500 for all the speakers installed and but I have done business with the guys for awhile so they cut me a bit of a break but its a super clean install.

When adding subwoofers (powered or with a dedicated external amp), did you guys run seperate, dedicated power to the amps from the battery? or did you tap off something nearby?

I can't imagine that the factory 12V wires hanging around back there would be much more than 16 gauge, much too light to support a large amplifier (or even a small one like a bazooka powered sub).

Please let me know your thoughts.

After market amps should always be wired directly to the battery. If multiple, large amps, use 0 gauge to a distribution block. If one large amp, you should use at least 4 gauge. Be sure to include the appropriate size fuse on the wire.