Hi all, I'm attempting to install my V1 in my SRT8 (love the car btw haha obv, right?) and I pulled down the overhead console (this is the part where pictures would help) and there are a bunch of wires (some with a stripe) all leading to various things, bluetooth/lights/compass/etc...... Can anyone give any solid advice (if they have seen it) as what wire I should tap into, befor eI go around with a volt meter and go crazy?


If you all help me out I'd be happy to post pictures and do a little right up to help the greater good.....

Best,
-Zac

although it's not a Jeep, on my Infiniti, i ran the wiring down the driver's side A-pillar to the outboard driver's side footwell (my car has a fusebox here)

i went to Pep Boys and bought a $2 "Add a Circuit" fuse. it plugs in between a fuse and the fuse holter, and gives you a +12v hookup (red wire). then you just connect the black wire to chassis ground, and it's ready to go.

this whole procedure took me about 20 minutes, including taking a few mins to tuck the wire up between the headliner and the windshield with a credit card.

this is not the only way to do it, and i was originally going to tap into my homelink mirror wiring like you... problem was, i wanted the V1 to come on with the key and go off when you took it out. so i made sure i tapped a fuse that was active with the key only.

of course, after a while, i got tired of looking up to my sunvisor to see my alerts, so i did this...

http://www.tremerandtremer.com/g35/ashtray1.jpg

Make sure you tap into a wire that is not "hot" all the time, otherwise you're radar is going to run your battery down. Just look for an interior item that only comes on with the key and splice into that.

although it's not a Jeep, on my Infiniti, i ran the wiring down the driver's side A-pillar to the outboard driver's side footwell (my car has a fusebox here)

i went to Pep Boys and bought a $2 "Add a Circuit" fuse. it plugs in between a fuse and the fuse holter, and gives you a +12v hookup (red wire). then you just connect the black wire to chassis ground, and it's ready to go.

this whole procedure took me about 20 minutes, including taking a few mins to tuck the wire up between the headliner and the windshield with a credit card.

this is not the only way to do it, and i was originally going to tap into my homelink mirror wiring like you... problem was, i wanted the V1 to come on with the key and go off when you took it out. so i made sure i tapped a fuse that was active with the key only.

of course, after a while, i got tired of looking up to my sunvisor to see my alerts, so i did this...

http://www.tremerandtremer.com/g35/ashtray1.jpgHow is looking down into the ashtray opening at the bottom of the console less tiring that looking at the V1 just at the top of your line of sight while driving? It seems much less safe is this location requiring you to completely take your eyes away from traffic?

How is looking down into the ashtray opening at the bottom of the console less tiring that looking at the V1 just at the top of your line of sight while driving? It seems much less safe is this location requiring you to completely take your eyes away from traffic?
Agreed, that was kinda weird.

what i meant to write was that i was tired of reaching up there to mute it.

after about 2 weeks, i got all the different audio cues memorized, so i really never look at it anymore. but i can tap the Mute with my right hand much easier since i usually keep it on the gearshift.

the moral of my whole story, as Houston said, is make sure you're tapping into an accessory hot and not something that'll be on all the time even when the truck is off

Quick question. I thought the sensors on the V1 were on the front and back of the unit and it needed to be out in the open. How can it work if it is in an ash tray? Do they make remote sensors?

Quick question. I thought the sensors on the V1 were on the front and back of the unit and it needed to be out in the open. How can it work if it is in an ash tray? Do they make remote sensors?
i don't wanna blow the OP's thread further off-topic. what you see in the pic is the Valentine1 remote display. it's basically a duplicate of all the lights and button on the front panel of the detector that you can mount anywhere. my actual V1 is clipped to the passenger side sunvisor (i usually ride alone anyways)

lol anyone actually have a responce for my orig question? I dont mind the OT comments at all just want someone to answer me :)

lol anyone actually have a responce for my orig question? I dont mind the OT comments at all just want someone to answer me :)
Just look for an interior item that only comes on with the key and splice into that.

I already answered your question. However, since you want something specifically pointed out for you, it's seems to me that the compass would not be hot when the car is off.

lol anyone actually have a responce for my orig question? I dont mind the OT comments at all just want someone to answer me :)

I would not recomment tapping into the dome light.

It will take you only a few minutes to run the cord down the "A" Pillar to the fuse box located under the dash on the drivers side. Use a test light and find an "Ignition" fuse and use a fuse tap there.

Should take no more than 15 minutes to do.

I'll take pic of mine tonight or tomorrow, I have mine hardwired into the dome light. very clean looking. I just tapped into the red wire when you pop off the plastic dome light thing. The red wire is hot all the time but I'm not to worried about it. If you really think that a radar detector is going to run down your battery you're crazy. That thing hardly uses any power and if your really that worried then unplug it when you get out of the car. I grounded mine to the screw that holds in the driver side sun shade. the hardest part is getting the ground wire just in the right position. I didn't want to run it down the A pillar because i was simply to lazy. Its not a big deal to me.

I'll take pic of mine tonight or tomorrow, I have mine hardwired into the dome light. very clean looking. I just tapped into the red wire when you pop off the plastic dome light thing. The red wire is hot all the time but I'm not to worried about it. If you really think that a radar detector is going to run down your battery you're crazy. That thing hardly uses any power and if your really that worried then unplug it when you get out of the car. I grounded mine to the screw that holds in the driver side sun shade. the hardest part is getting the ground wire just in the right position. I didn't want to run it down the A pillar because i was simply to lazy. Its not a big deal to me.

If you have a few dollars to spare for about 1-2 hours of labor, wait until you have all of your multiple electrical additions ready and take it a pro shop. I'm sure any popular place would do it for you.

If you have a few dollars to spare for about 1-2 hours of labor, wait until you have all of your multiple electrical additions ready and take it a pro shop. I'm sure any popular place would do it for you.

or spend 10 mins of your own time and do it yourself, its easy and works perfect. i'd probably be in jail if i didnt have my V1.

wow..... ok so some of you in my opinion are kinda off lol, I've had a lot of experience with cars, paying a shop etc is stupid, esp for something so simple.... Also the fuse box thing is cool but I would like a more solid thing without screwing around with the fuse box and running wires further (esp if I have to run a phone cord to the V1 from the wire that runs to the hardwire adapter) my question wasn't really answered until someone said tap into the red wire, which was all I was asking, was which wire DO I tap into because at the time I wrote it I had my overhead console/domelight popped off looking at all of the wires there, curious hoping someone would have a diagram or who knew what wire was what....


- Houston, sorry to be rude and ignore your comment, I just didnt see how this was answering my question as I knew to tap into something that wasn't always hot.... thanks a bunch for at least helping tho :)


Make sure you tap into a wire that is not "hot" all the time, otherwise you're radar is going to run your battery down. Just look for an interior item that only comes on with the key and splice into that.



Anyways thanks all I will go from there and if anyone wants pix of the install so if they have one or whatever they need help I'll be happy to assist.

Good to meet all of you too.
-Zac

- Houston, sorry to be rude and ignore your comment, I just didnt see how this was answering my question as I knew to tap into something that wasn't always hot.... thanks a bunch for at least helping tho :)

Yeah, I'm sorry if I came across as rude as well. :)

I'll take pic of mine tonight or tomorrow, I have mine hardwired into the dome light. very clean looking. I just tapped into the red wire when you pop off the plastic dome light thing. The red wire is hot all the time but I'm not to worried about it. If you really think that a radar detector is going to run down your battery you're crazy. That thing hardly uses any power and if your really that worried then unplug it when you get out of the car. I grounded mine to the screw that holds in the driver side sun shade. the hardest part is getting the ground wire just in the right position. I didn't want to run it down the A pillar because i was simply to lazy. Its not a big deal to me.

Ever leave a radar detector plugged into a cigarette lighter without unplugging it for a few days? Yes, you will run your car down. An always hot wire is a bad place to wire in a radar detector. The purpose of hardwiring one is so that it is always powered with the car and you never have to worry about unplugging it.

[QUOTE=zacincceo]wow..... ok so some of you in my opinion are kinda off lol, I've had a lot of experience with cars, paying a shop etc is stupid, esp for something so simple.... Also the fuse box thing is cool but I would like a more solid thing without screwing around with the fuse box and running wires further (esp if I have to run a phone cord to the V1 from the wire that runs to the hardwire adapter) my question wasn't really answered until someone said tap into the red wire, which was all I was asking, was which wire DO I tap into because at the time I wrote it I had my overhead console/domelight popped off looking at all of the wires there, curious hoping someone would have a diagram or who knew what wire was what....

Good luck! For the 5 minutes you will save make sure you keep a fire extinguisher and battery jump pack with you at all times.

Good luck! For the 5 minutes you will save make sure you keep a fire extinguisher and battery jump pack with you at all times.


What is this a joke? lol I don't quite get this forum much... I'm from NASIOC, old WRX guy (had 2 of them) people there sucked and were real *******s lol but helpful people.... you guys just seem real sarcastic haha..... kinda helpful so far....


All I wanted to know was what wire underneath the console (and there IS one obviously) to tap into that went through the ignition..


anyways best all... and btw Anna Nicole Smith Dead??? lol

-Zac

I've hard wired radar detectors by slicing into hot dome light and garage door opener wires in several cars and never had a problem. I'm sure you won't either.

Alex

I wired my V1 into the cig liter and ran the cable up the pillar. It is a switched circuit so it goes off with the key. My remote display is right under the tach.

The toughest part was not knowing exactly how to pull the center console apart. The WKjeep site has a step by step procedure on how to do it. It's easy once you know how it should be done.

Cheers :)

What is this a joke? lol I don't quite get this forum much... I'm from NASIOC, old WRX guy (had 2 of them) people there sucked and were real *******s lol but helpful people.... you guys just seem real sarcastic haha..... kinda helpful so far....


All I wanted to know was what wire underneath the console (and there IS one obviously) to tap into that went through the ignition..


anyways best all... and btw Anna Nicole Smith Dead??? lol

-Zac

It's a simple fact that no matter how many people say they did it, it is a very bad idea to tap into ANY factory OEM wiring for power. Do you know what size that wire is that you are tapping into? Do you know how many amps it will support? Do you know how many amps the V1 + whatever you are tapping into draw in relation to the circuit it is on? Did you know that all DCX vehicles now run a CANBus electrical system that can sense these things and register a fault code? In addition, how do you intend on tapping into the wire? A "T"-tap, butt connector, etc.?? Some of these have been known to fail easily, especially if not crimped correctly, short out, and start fires.

In addition, wiring the V1 hot and leaving it for several days, over and over, WILL drain your battery.

My point was that instead of taking the lazy way out, why not spend an extra 5 minutes (literally), run the wire down the A-pillar, and tap into an ignition switched circuit on your fuse panel? It's safe, and it does not draw down the battery.

And before you respond keep in mind I own a company that specializes in wiring and manufacturing 12V accessories in vehicles and I have many years of experience with this.

But hey, it's your car, do what you want. I am just trying to give you some good advice that is extremely easy to do.

The dome light isn't hot all the time.

Tonight, I was sitting in the car waiting for son #4 to come out of his trumpet lesson, ignition off and dome light on reading a magazine. After about 10 minutes or so, domelight went off.

Alex

The dome light isn't hot all the time.

Tonight, I was sitting in the car waiting for son #4 to come out of his trumpet lesson, ignition off and dome light on reading a magazine. After about 10 minutes or so, domelight went off.

Alex

So if what you say is true then the V1 will only be on when the dome light is on? Interesting idea.

So if what you say is true then the V1 will only be on when the dome light is on? Interesting idea.

Heh. Good point. I profess cluelessness. ;)

Alex

Heh. Good point. I profess cluelessness. ;)

Alex

Ahh, no harm no foul.

I've just seen quite a few people in my time burn up cars (or electrical systems) due to simple lazyness. The point I was trying to make is that for the extra 5 minutes of work it is well worth the peace of mind and reliability.

The dome light isn't hot all the time.

Tonight, I was sitting in the car waiting for son #4 to come out of his trumpet lesson, ignition off and dome light on reading a magazine. After about 10 minutes or so, domelight went off.

Alex
That just means it has a timer on it. The actual power wire going to the dome light is always hot. The switch governs wether or not the light is on, like a light switch in a house.

That just means it has a timer on it. The actual power wire going to the dome light is always hot. The switch governs wether or not the light is on, like a light switch in a house.

Yeah, I'm not so stupid that I didn't eventually figure out that I was stupid. :rolleyes:

Alex

Yeah, I'm not so stupid that I didn't eventually figure out that I was stupid. :rolleyes:

Alex
As long as we're straight that you're only stupid part of the time. :D

anyone wana help out with a wiring schematic of the top console so I can see what to tap info??? Someone must have done this by now....

anyone wana help out with a wiring schematic of the top console so I can see what to tap info??? Someone must have done this by now....
you should try over on **************** (i assume the overhead wiring in the SRT is the same as the regular WK)... somebody over there might have done it

Hi all, I'm attempting to install my V1 in my SRT8 (love the car btw haha obv, right?) and I pulled down the overhead console (this is the part where pictures would help) and there are a bunch of wires (some with a stripe) all leading to various things, bluetooth/lights/compass/etc...... Can anyone give any solid advice (if they have seen it) as what wire I should tap into, befor eI go around with a volt meter and go crazy?


If you all help me out I'd be happy to post pictures and do a little right up to help the greater good.....

Best,
-Zac
Your best bet is to tap into the cig lighter + and - are there and shuts off with ign

I used the instructions below that were posted over six months ago and all has been working well. Detector goes on and off with the car and no need to run a line more than 10".

I live by my V1 and have hardwired it in all my cars. I have found hardwire instructions on every forum except for Grand Cherokee ones. So hopefully these quick instructions will help someone out. I used the V1 hardwire kit, which makes installation a snap.

1. Drop down overhead console. It is held by 4 clips, pry one corner closest to the front of the car loose and pull down.
2. Un plug the connector plug closest to the passenger side. You will see a red/yellow or pink/yellow wire. This is your ignition switched hot.
3. Use quick connect plug and tap that hot line.
4. unscrew screw that holds the visor thingy closest to the overhead console. This will be your ground.
5. attach black/ground wire to the screw and reinstall visor thingy.
6. hide all wires in headliner and voila. your radar detectory is now hidden from view and switched on only with your ignition.

This was a twenty minute or 1 beer job. Hope this helps someone out. If this doesnt make sense its because that one beer turned into six and you know how that goes.

Thanks again to the person I poached these instructions from...

Thanks so much Cyan thats EXACTLY what I was looking for (too bad it took this long! haha)

-Zac

I used the instructions below that were posted over six months ago and all has been working well. Detector goes on and off with the car and no need to run a line more than 10".

I live by my V1 and have hardwired it in all my cars. I have found hardwire instructions on every forum except for Grand Cherokee ones. So hopefully these quick instructions will help someone out. I used the V1 hardwire kit, which makes installation a snap.

1. Drop down overhead console. It is held by 4 clips, pry one corner closest to the front of the car loose and pull down.
2. Un plug the connector plug closest to the passenger side. You will see a red/yellow or pink/yellow wire. This is your ignition switched hot.
3. Use quick connect plug and tap that hot line.
4. unscrew screw that holds the visor thingy closest to the overhead console. This will be your ground.
5. attach black/ground wire to the screw and reinstall visor thingy.
6. hide all wires in headliner and voila. your radar detectory is now hidden from view and switched on only with your ignition.

This was a twenty minute or 1 beer job. Hope this helps someone out. If this doesnt make sense its because that one beer turned into six and you know how that goes.

Thanks again to the person I poached these instructions from...





I couldnt get the ground to work.... any suggestions?

Thnx Cyan, for th info, I used these and it worked perfectly. Took about 10 minutes. I used the ground wire from the visor as mentioned above. I had to test it a couple of times without reattaching the visor to make sure I had a good ground connection. Once I got a good ground, I buttoned it up and voila!

Great tip.

Thnx again!

Your best bet is to tap into the cig lighter + and - are there and shuts off with ign


http://invisicord.com/

Sweet Product you tape nothing and its 100% SAFE

http://www.radardetector.net/viewtopic.php?t=13241&highlight=mirror

Make your self this and It will be Kinda Stealth
Or if you make the BIG BUCKS go with this


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VALENTINE-1-RADAR-LOCATOR-IN-REAR-VIEW-MIRROR_W0QQitemZ250136295656QQihZ015QQcategoryZ386 54QQcmdZViewItem


Hope this Helps

I couldnt get the ground to work.... any suggestions?

I also used those instructions posted above and they worked perfectly. However, as you noted, getting the ground to work takes a few trial and error attempts. I used a crimp-on spade terminal on the ground wire, pulled the wire out through the hole in the headliner, and squeezed it tight around the screw (after putting it through the visor clip). Then carefully worked it back in and tightened the screw. Took a couple of tries but then it worked fine.--Bob