Ok Guys help me understand this, If we are to use 0-40 oil in our rigs, I ask why? its it because it flows better.

" Viscosity is a measure of the resistance of a fluid which is being deformed by either shear stress or extensional stress. In everyday terms (and for liquids only), viscosity is "thickness". Thus, water is "thin", having a lower viscosity, while vegetable oil is "thick" having a higher viscosity. Viscosity describes a fluid's internal resistance to flow and may be thought of as a measure of fluid friction. For example, high-viscosity magma will create a tall, steep stratovolcano, because it cannot flow far before it cools, while low-viscosity lava will create a wide, shallow-sloped shield volcano. [1] All real fluids (except superfluids) have some resistance to stress, but a fluid which has no resistance to shear stress is known as an "ideal fluid" or "inviscid fluid". The study of viscosity is known as rheology.

Thanks Guys,

does she spit or swallow, thats all the matters

....LOL.....

swallowing is less viscous, spitting may create what I call a stringer effect.....as it is thicker when it hits the atomosphere.

....LOL.....

swallowing is less viscous, spitting may create what I call a stringer effect.....as it is thicker when it hits the atomosphere.

LMAO.... Thread jack

I did a senior research thesis on the study of viscoicity in Advanced Fluids Lab. Your definition is correct, although there is no such thing as "extensional stress". ALL stresses on materails are nothing more than shear stresses. Moments, tension, compression, pure shear, and torsion are all functions of INTERNAL shear forces acting collectively to produce a net EXTERNAL force.

A good place to research this is to look up SAE viscocity ratings. The "W" stands for winter, and describes the relative viscoity under certain temperature conditions. Motor Oil is engineered for viscocity characteristics under a temperature profile and the naming convention is a quick way of classifying its very general characteristics.

The short answer to your question is that it doesn't really matter that much if you use 0W-40 or 15W-50; chances are, your engine will run just fine with ANY normal weight of motor oil in it, and you wont be able to tell the difference, nor will your engine show any signs of excessive wear. The particular weight of the oil you chose should be adapted to the climate in which you intend to operate in order to maximize the characteristics of the particular blend. Synthetic Oil's life, under 99% of normal operating conditions, is limited by the amount of particulate matter it can suspend. As long as your engine does not have any compression leaks, or hot spots, or other areas that can cause molecular decay of the hydrocarbons (i.e. its in good working condition), then you could probably use that oil for the life of your vehicle if you could figure out a way to keep it clean. Unforunately modern oil is designed to suck up carbon and combusion byproducts to keep them from depositing on your engine. Once it has reached a certain threshold of CRAP floating around in your oil it needs to be changed. Not becuase it has lost the ability to lubricate, but becuase there is too much sh1t in it to prevent it from depositing on your engine.

The tolerences in an OHV pushrod V-8 are not tight enough to warrant 20 weight vs 40 weight oil. Its pretty much going to contain enough of the right kinds of long-chain hydrocarbons to sufficiently lubricate your engine no mater which one you chose. What can damage your engine is the brief instance in which your engine starts cold with no lubrication. If the oil is out of its temperature range it may briefly delay the oil getting to the rotating assembly to prevent wear. Cold starts will always be the killer of engines, but detroit refuses to install pre-lubrication technology.... if you were able to start an electric oil system before you started your vehicle, you would probably extend your engine life by about 200-300%. That means less new cars for the automakers... go figure.

the first number relates to the viscosity when cold, the second number relates to the viscosity when at operating temp. the W stands for winter (able to provide good lub in sub zero temps at start up)

I did a senior research thesis on the study of viscoicity in Advanced Fluids Lab. Your definition is correct, although there is no such thing as "extensional stress". ALL stresses on materails are nothing more than shear stresses. Moments, tension, compression, pure shear, and torsion are all functions of INTERNAL shear forces acting collectively to produce a net EXTERNAL force.

A good place to research this is to look up SAE viscocity ratings. The "W" stands for winter, and describes the relative viscoity under certain temperature conditions. Motor Oil is engineered for viscocity characteristics under a temperature profile and the naming convention is a quick way of classifying its very general characteristics.

The short answer to your question is that it doesn't really matter that much if you use 0W-40 or 15W-50; chances are, your engine will run just fine with ANY normal weight of motor oil in it, and you wont be able to tell the difference, nor will your engine show any signs of excessive wear. The particular weight of the oil you chose should be adapted to the climate in which you intend to operate in order to maximize the characteristics of the particular blend. Synthetic Oil's life, under 99% of normal operating conditions, is limited by the amount of particulate matter it can suspend. As long as your engine does not have any compression leaks, or hot spots, or other areas that can cause molecular decay of the hydrocarbons (i.e. its in good working condition), then you could probably use that oil for the life of your vehicle if you could figure out a way to keep it clean. Unforunately modern oil is designed to suck up carbon and combusion byproducts to keep them from depositing on your engine. Once it has reached a certain threshold of CRAP floating around in your oil it needs to be changed. Not becuase it has lost the ability to lubricate, but becuase there is too much sh1t in it to prevent it from depositing on your engine.

The tolerences in an OHV pushrod V-8 are not tight enough to warrant 20 weight vs 40 weight oil. Its pretty much going to contain enough of the right kinds of long-chain hydrocarbons to sufficiently lubricate your engine no mater which one you chose. What can damage your engine is the brief instance in which your engine starts cold with no lubrication. If the oil is out of its temperature range it may briefly delay the oil getting to the rotating assembly to prevent wear. Cold starts will always be the killer of engines, but detroit refuses to install pre-lubrication technology.... if you were able to start an electric oil system before you started your vehicle, you would probably extend your engine life by about 200-300%. That means less new cars for the automakers... go figure.

^^ what he said...

the first number relates to the viscosity when cold, the second number relates to the viscosity when at operating temp. the W stands for winter (able to provide good lub in sub zero temps at start up)

haha you said LUB... haha

haha you said LUB... haha

my keyboard hates me... thats my excuse anyways.

I'm all about some pre-lube Winston

Thank You You Super Nerds, J/K Winston I knew you would answer my question, thanks Bro. The reason I asked is, I was talking my Audi tech, Guy is pretty good , He was telling me all kinds of info on filters and oil etc etc, I asked him about using Royal Purple in my Audi, He said no. It has to much phosphorous and it will damage the engine. He also thinks Mobile one is not good for my car either, WTH, We where talking about a 2.7 V6 twin turbo engine in the audi. I will see him next week I want a few more questions answer'd. Just thought I'd share that, BTW this guy runs a very successful INDY shop.