who has done rotors and pads themselves?

I tried this morning. I didnt try to hard to spread the caliper but how the hell you do it without a spreader things?

Also how in the hell did you get those bolts off the back of the caliper to change the rotors....swear those things are welded on there...

any tips???

I have a couple days with nothing to do so I would like to DIY

http://www.300cforums.com/forums/tech-tips-diy-how/33761-how-installing-low-dust-brake-pads-srt8.html

These might help. Check here (http://www.moparsupercenter.com/article-37.html) and here (http://www.300cforums.com/forums/tech-tips-diy-how/33761-how-installing-low-dust-brake-pads-srt8.html)

I recently did my fronts and backs. The caliper bolts weren't that bad with the proper tools. I used a creative assortment of swivel universal joints, extensions and socket with an impact gun. For those that I couldn't get to like that, I used a universal joint with an 18" breaker bar. (18" is a little tight in the wheel well, 15" would have been better.) PS: Don't forget to pay attention as to which way to turn to loosen the bolts! Remember you are looking at it backwards! Maybe it's just me, but I have to think about these things harder than I like sometimes. haha

As far as compressing the pistons, I used two large screwdrivers (I know, it's a no no, but it worked.) I just opened the cap to the brake fluid reservoir first and worked SLOWLY. Also, I had to leave one screwdriver wedged in while I worked the other pad otherwise the piston would go back into place on me.

For each rotor you'll see that there is a rubber gasket thingie on the hub. Remove this before attempting to remove the rotor. The fronts are only held on with rust after you remove that and the caliper. Go a little slower on the rears as the emergency brake system is within the drum on the rear discs.

Have fun!

Thanks guys. I didnt want to hurt the caliper by prying it but Ill give it a try. As far as the caliper bolts those babies are ON THERE...a breaker bar is a great idea. Thanks guys

Thanks guys. I didnt want to hurt the caliper by prying it but Ill give it a try. As far as the caliper bolts those babies are ON THERE...a breaker bar is a great idea. Thanks guys

In my first link it says to use a trim stick instead of my barbaric screwdrivers. Same concept, just won't hurt the rotor and pads which I didn't care about anyway as I was dumping them.

I am dumping rotors and pads as well so fawk it...

use a c clamp

Ever get the feeling that Chrysler bought Brembros defects at bargain prices and put them on the Jeep

Ever get the feeling that Chrysler bought Brembros defects at bargain prices and put them on the Jeep

what makes u say that

Wait til you take them off for the first time and see, rusted and worn parts and paint chips that should be holding up to what to road can dish out

yea they were rusty for sure. The hardest part for me is getting that damn giant bolt off the back..that thing is rusted and siezed on so hardcore haha....attempt #2 3:30 pm

Wade- your avatar is killing me bro haha

i have a large pair of channel-locks... but a c-clamp will work... just DO NOT get the piston ****ed sideways AT ALL or you can screw it up... and for the bolts... quit bring a girl... :)

No one emntioned to open the Master cylinder up and put a nice absorbent rag under it to catch any overflow.

As you push the pistons in and get the pads spread, that dispaced fluid needs to go somewhere.

wow this is starting become more than I can handle I think...

No one emntioned to open the Master cylinder up and put a nice absorbent rag under it to catch any overflow.

As you push the pistons in and get the pads spread, that dispaced fluid needs to go somewhere.

not if you didnt put any in and go slow... slower is better... if you squeeze it in fast (force it) thats exactly what happens...

wow this is starting become more than I can handle I think...

if you cant change your brakes then take the car and trade it in on a saabaru... every damn american should know how to do this kind of stuff...

not if you didnt put any in and go slow... slower is better... if you squeeze it in fast (force it) thats exactly what happens...

Sorry but its a closed system. there is 100% fluid in the line. If you make the area that holds the fluid smaller, by compressing the piston into the caliper, that extra fluid has to go somewhere. hence a rag under the master. Now there is some space in the master to allow for expansion. So maybe none will leak out, maybe some will. I think a rag or some thing absorbent is a good idea. Also, some brake fluid can/will remove paint. I never looked what type Jeep uses, but safe than sorry.

AJ - its not that tough a job just a few things to keep track of. That LX forum write kind of supports how easy it is.

No one emntioned to open the Master cylinder up and put a nice absorbent rag under it to catch any overflow.

As you push the pistons in and get the pads spread, that dispaced fluid needs to go somewhere.

u dont have to worry i didn't do it with my jeep the fluid only goes up alittle

I think I can handle it...just need a breaker bar and I didnt really make an attempt to spread the caliper with any tools...just my hand. It is sooo damn cold out too haha

u cant use ur hand to push the piston back u need a screw drive at least

I almost gave up on mine, but $29.95 at Wally Mart for an impact driver and the bolts popped off with no effort. Makes taking tires off a 2 min job.