Self Service and coolant flush...Questions???!!! [Archive] - Cherokee SRT8 Forum

: Self Service and coolant flush...Questions???!!!


Get$$$Man
10-20-2008, 09:29 PM
Alright I've done some searching before posting this but I still have some unanswered questions.

I plan on servicing my car tomorrow for the first time since I had the 50,000 done at the dealer (I now have around 54,xxx). I plan on doing the following tomorrow at home to save my pops some pennies at the dealer (and because I have no class or work tomorrow and I want to make my day productive):

1. Oil change. Mobile 1 synthetic and Mobil 1 filter. What tool do I need to get the filter off?

2. Flush and replace all coolant.
I have barely any coolant left in the overflow tank and it looks semi-cloudy and murky...I know the proper coolant to buy from reading other threads but what I wanted to know is: Can I flush and replace the coolant myself? Or is this something that requires more then just draining a plug. And how much coolant do I need to replace?

3. Rotate tires --- Is this necessary?
4. Change wiper blades! Can't wait to get the crappy OEM ones off.

Any other things I'm missing?

Any or all input is appreciated on the questions. Thanks

Str8Srt8
10-20-2008, 09:35 PM
3. Rotate tires --- Is this necessary?
4. Change wiper blades! Can't wait to get the crappy OEM ones off.


The tire rotation can only be done by swapping tires with wheels fronts with fronts, rears with rears. Probably pointless unless you have some camber affect causing some excessive wear.

The wiper blades requires the StarScan to be connected so the "eject" option can be selected, it is somewhere under the entertainment settings :)

SkyeHighSRT8
10-20-2008, 10:30 PM
The tire rotation can only be done by swapping tires with wheels fronts with fronts, rears with rears. Probably pointless unless you have some camber affect causing some excessive wear.

The wiper blades requires the StarScan to be connected so the "eject" option can be selected, it is somewhere under the entertainment settings :)

come on now....be nice to the kid.

get the fusion one piece wiper blades. they work great but are about $40 for the set.

Get$$$Man
10-20-2008, 11:16 PM
Cool is the StarScan the Predator? because I have one of those and I heard you gotta disconnect your accessory pully (I can do that with a good screw driver and a wrench can't I?) before attemping to change your wiper blades because if they go off accidently you could get poked in the eye. I heard also if you take off your intake manifold the engine can breathe better netting higher horsepower. I'm gunna do all that tomorrow.

Duhh I'm not retarded. The only important question I'm still unsure about is how to deal with my cooling system. The OEM wipers suck. I had new good ones on before my last service but the stealerships stole them and replaced them with chittty ones.

Can any one help with the coolant issue ie: how to flush the system and replace it?

I'm gunna look into those fusion ones!

DevssrT
10-21-2008, 12:19 AM
I have RainX Wipers and they work great...Tools for oil change are socktets an wrench, and Oil filter wrench.

Vinnysrt8
10-21-2008, 06:10 AM
I have RainX Wipers and they work great...Tools for oil change are socktets an wrench, and Oil filter wrench.

Gl on getting it done.

robpp
10-21-2008, 09:11 AM
The problem with the coolant flush and fill is what to do with the waste. You cant just let it run down the gutter casue if an animal drinks it, it dies.

I would try a Jiffy Lube type place, bring 2 gallons of your own antifreeze with HOAT to make sure you get the correct stuff. No powerflush as their machine doesnt have the correct antifreeze.

Get$$$Man
10-21-2008, 09:23 AM
The problem with the coolant flush and fill is what to do with the waste. You cant just let it run down the gutter casue if an animal drinks it, it dies.

I would try a Jiffy Lube type place, bring 2 gallons of your own antifreeze with HOAT to make sure you get the correct stuff. No powerflush as their machine doesnt have the correct antifreeze.

Thanks. Yeah I've read other threads on the proper stuff to get so I might just try to flush it and catch it in an extra oil catcher and worry about it later.

Where is there a plug where u can flush it? and How do u get it to recirculate without there being air in the system.

robpp
10-21-2008, 09:48 AM
DRAINING COOLING SYSTEM




WARNING: Do not remove the cylinder block drain plugs or loosen the radiator drain**** with system hot and under pressure. Serious burns from coolant can occur.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn11/robpp/rad.gif

1. DO NOT remove radiator cap first. With engine cold, raise vehicle on a hoist and locate radiator drain****.
NOTE: Radiator drain**** is located on the right/lower side of radiator facing to rear of vehicle.


2. Attach one end of a hose to the drain****. Put the other end into a clean container. Open drain**** and drain coolant from radiator. This will empty the coolant reserve/overflow tank. The coolant does not have to be removed from the tank unless the system is being refilled with a fresh mixture. When tank is empty, remove radiator cap and continue draining cooling system.

robpp
10-21-2008, 09:56 AM
Everything but the 6.1. Maybe its the same as the 5.7???



REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM


3.7L

1. Tighten the radiator drain**** and the cylinder block drain plug(s) (if removed).
CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling system can result in an overheating condition and severe engine damage.


2. Fill cooling system with the antifreeze mixture (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION). Fill pressure bottle to service line and install cap.
NOTE: The engine cooling system will push any remaining air into the coolant bottle within about an hour of normal driving. As a result, a drop in coolant level in the pressure bottle may occur. If the engine cooling system overheats and pushes coolant into the overflow side of the coolant bottle, this coolant will be sucked back into the cooling system ONLY IF THE PRESSURE CAP IS LEFT ON THE BOTTLE. Removing the pressure cap breaks the vacuum path between the two bottle sections and the coolant will not return to cooling system.


3. With heater control unit in the HEAT position, operate engine with pressure bottle cap in place.
4. Add coolant to pressure bottle as necessary. Only add coolant to the pressure bottle when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion.

4.7L



http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn11/robpp/rad2.gif

1. Tighten the radiator drain**** and the cylinder block drain plug(s) (if removed).
CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling system can result in an overheating condition and severe engine damage.


2. Remove the cooling system bleed plug from the radiator upper hose inlet housing. Fill cooling system with the antifreeze mixture (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION), until coolant begins coming out of the cooling system bleed hole. Install the cooling system bleed plug. Fill radiator to top and install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark.
3. With heater control unit in the HEAT position, operate engine with radiator cap in place.
4. After engine has reached normal operating temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool. When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.
5. Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as necessary. Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion. To purge the cooling system of all air, this heat up/cool down cycle (adding coolant to cold engine) must be performed three times. Add necessary coolant to raise tank level to the FULL mark after each cool down period.

5.7L

1. Close radiator drain****. Hand tighten only.
2. Install engine block drain plugs, if removed. Coat the threads with MoparŪ Thread Sealant with Teflon.
WARNING: When installing drain hose to air bleed valve, route hose away from accessory drive belts, accessory drive pulleys, and electric cooling fan motors.

NOTE: It may be necessary to install a bleed fitting on the 5.7L engine.


3. Attach a 1.5 - 2 m (4 - 6 ft.) long 6 mm (1/4 inch.) ID clear hose to bleeder fitting
Plug Location (5.7L): Located on the front of the water outlet housing at the front of engine.

4. Route hose away from the accessory drive belt, drive pulleys and electric cooling fan. Place the other end of hose into a clean container. The hose will prevent coolant from contacting the accessory drive belt when bleeding the system during the refilling operation.
NOTE: It is imperative that the cooling system air bleed valve be opened before any coolant is added to the cooling system. Failure to open the bleed valve first will result in an incomplete fill of the system.


5. 5.7L ENGINE - Install a threaded and barbed fitting (1/4 - 18 npt) into water pump housing.
6. Attach Filling Aid Funnel Tool 8195 to pressure bottle filler neck.
7. Using hose pinch-off pliers, pinch overflow hose that connects between the two chambers of the coolant bottle (2).
8. Open bleed fitting.
9. Pour the coolant (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION) into the larger section of Filling Aid Funnel (the smaller section of funnel is to allow air to escape).
10. Slowly fill the cooling system until a steady stream of coolant flows from the hose attached to the bleed valve.
11. Close the bleed valve and continue filling system to the top of the Filling Aid Funnel Tool 8195.
12. Remove pinch-off pliers from overflow hose.
13. Allow the coolant in Filling Funnel to drain into overflow chamber of the pressure bottle.
14. Remove Filling Aid Funnel Tool 8195. Install cap on coolant pressure bottle.
15. Remove hose from bleed valve.
16. Install fitting into thermostat housing. Coat the threads with MoparŪ Thread Sealant with Teflon.
17. Start engine and run at 1500 - 2000 RPM for 30 minutes.
NOTE: The engine cooling system will push any remaining air into the coolant bottle within about an hour of normal driving. As a result, a drop in coolant level in the pressure bottle may occur. If the engine cooling system overheats and pushes coolant into the overflow side of the coolant bottle, this coolant will be sucked back into the cooling system ONLY IF THE PRESSURE CAP IS LEFT ON THE BOTTLE. Removing the pressure cap breaks the vacuum path between the two bottle sections and the coolant will not return to cooling system.


18. Shut off engine allow it to cool down for 30 minutes. This permits coolant to be drawn into the pressure chamber.
19. With engine COLD, observe coolant level in pressure chamber. Coolant level should be within MIN and MAX marks. Adjust coolant level as necessary.

Get$$$Man
10-21-2008, 11:58 AM
Thankyou very much.