Pictures below capture the kit I received today from Eibach. I am guessing that since I am in the same state, I probably got them first, but others should be getting them soon if they havent already. Enjoy the photos.

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=752
http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=751
http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=750
http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=749

Ps. sorry it was a camera phone, I can take better photos later for those interested.

What is it a better bumpstop.

What is it a better bumpstop.


Its a complete replacement for the cup thats attached to the body. I thought they were going to just copy everyones idea and shorten the cup, instead they completely replace it with a solid piece and a second smaller piece that holds the bump stop bushing in place.

I cant quite say I understand how this is going to fix everything, because unless the bump stop solid piece is shorter then the factory hollow piece, I just dont see how this is saving us anything.

I'll see if I cant get it installed this weekend and report back.

I really was expecting them to just do the 'cut the middle section out' and reweld it trick on the stock ones, but these pieces are far better looking, but certainly not approaching the solution the same way.

Jon

Hmm wonder if It works

neat!!!:bigthumb: hope it works!!

It would be a real shame it they over-engineer it and it doesn't solve the problem.

What to they run? I still have my springs NIB and would like to get this before attempting an install.

hope its work man ...keep us post..

What to they run? I still have my springs NIB and would like to get this before attempting an install.


They are FREE. That certainly is the good part of all this.

You dont pay anything as long as you send(fax) them a copy of your invoice and give them your ship to address.

I'll see if one of my buddies will let me use their garage today. I currently am house shopping and dont have my own garage here in Cali. (Chicago is a little far to drive to get to my garage :) )

Jon

I'm curious as to how it works. Is it all metal? Solid?

I'm curious as to how it works. Is it all metal? Solid?

Yeah, the bigger piece is one big chunk of something,I'm guessing aluminium, as a magnet doesnt stick to either piece. (athough the solid chunk just feels heavier then aluminum to me, but the smaller 'cap' piece is def alumn.)

Jon

I didnt get the time to put these in over the weekend. I was wondering if others had gotten them and had a chance?

I might be able to do it after work today.

Jon

So I assume they only send you the metal cups and you re-use the bumpstops?

So I assume they only send you the metal cups and you re-use the bumpstops?

Yeah. (reuse the ones they originally sent in the kit).


Speaking of this, anyone know the stock tq spec for that bolt that holds the cup in place?

Jon

From the manual...

INSTALLATION

1. Install the jounce bumper and cup, Tighten to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.).
2. Install the jounce bumper.
3. Install the upper isolator.




4. Install the lower isolator (2).
5. Pull down on the axle and position the coil spring in the lower isolator.
6. Raise the axle with the hydraulic jack.
7. Install the shock absorber to the axle bracket and tighten to 115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.)..
8. Install the stabilizer bar link to the body rail, Tighten to 102 N·m (75 ft. lbs.).
9. Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
10. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.

DUDE, you rock! I am doing this right after work, and I was like 'no way is someone going to respond in time, shoulda posted this sooner'

MUCH APPRECIATED!!

Jon

DUDE, you rock! I am doing this right after work, and I was like 'no way is someone going to respond in time, shoulda posted this sooner'

MUCH APPRECIATED!!

Jon

No worries. The manual CD is always loaded and ready. When I get stuck on something at work I always wander over to the forums to see whats up.

Good Luck

As I posted elsewhere:

I wouldn't be in a super rush to get these. I was one of the first to get them, and I finally got around to installing them last night. They actually move the whole package CLOSER to the solid axle, so it has even LESS travel before it bottoms out.

I'm kind of pissed I wasted the time calling around to verify that these bump stops were SHORTER then the current ones and was told YES THEY WERE, by Eibach. To only get the stock ones out and find out the replacements are LONGER.

I think those that are bottoming out bad are going to be SADLY disappointed in this fix. Its only MARGINALLY better at best. The only thing it does do is pre LOAD the suspension if you will, because now there is NO air GAP between the foam bushing and the flat metal pad on the solid axle.

Very disappointed in Eibach on this one. If I had to do it all over again, I would have just stayed stock.

Keep in mind I am one of the few people that are NOT having serious problems with bottoming out, mine comes from occasional high speed expansion joints, and big dips in the road that cause mine. So to have it happen is rare for my jeep, but i certainly know how to make it happen. Which I did last night on my way home, and it only MILDLY reduced the 'thud' of the bump stop caseing hitting the bumpstop pad on the axle.

Sorry for those that were hoping it was the final solution. Its more of an under delivered promise. :(

Jon

Now after saying all this.

I can say that their is POSSIBLY a fix for all you guys who haven't installed the bump stops yet.

Since its a solid piece of aluminum you can basically shave it down with a lathe and take (and its only a guess) about 1/2 and inch to 1 inch off each of the two bump stop spacers and probably have a viable solution.

We all know the 'new fix' needed to be SHORTER then the old 'package' and even Eibach knew it (from talking with them), so unless I got some totally wrong spacers, I think eibach missed the mark here. BUT its fixable, if you lathe off about 1/2 an inch to 1 inch, which will then move the whole package farther up and give the suspension a little more movement before it would 'bottom out'

Keep in mind u do NOT want to go crazy and make them too short, as I said I spoke to the eibach guys and they said TOO much travel is also a really bad thing, you will bottom out the suspension and break stuff.

Jon

Wow I'm pissed to hear this. The bumpstop was already sitting on the axle on my setup:mad:

Not happy about it, and here are the photos proving how much longer they are, and how much more they 'crush' the bump stop. Before I had about 1/2 an inch clearance between the bump stop touching the axles bump stop pad. Not it sits SQUISHED on it as seen in these photos:

http://gallery.viperclub.org/data/500/medium/IMG00117.jpg


http://gallery.viperclub.org/data/500/medium/IMG00108.jpg


http://gallery.viperclub.org/data/500/medium/IMG00113.jpg

Damn, Jon.....Sorry to hear that. I'm sending this link over to Eibach now in the hopes that your thorough writeup will help them figure something better out.

I'll keep you guys posted with what I hear.

I patiently was awaiting a fix to this bottoming out issue. After getting new Vreds. installed, the tire shop informed and showed me how my drivers side, rear rim is bent! I'm 90% sure that it got bent from bottoming out really hard but I guess I can't really prove it. It sucks! I'm suppose to be receiving my "New and Improved" bumpstops today. Do I dare have them installed? And no ones gonna do it for free, ya-know? Maybe Stillen should. Afterall, that is where I purchased and had them installed.:rolleyes:

2002 Viper,

The rear suspension on this car has travel limits so that the axle does not hit the exhaust. The OE cup and the Eibach cup are long as they are because in case that the foam bumpstop degrades over time, your suspension travel will stop at the cup and not go further. Otherwise you will have dents in your exhaust and chassis.

The new bumpstop that Eibach provides is a much better progression than the OE bumpstop. In this case, it is used as a secondary spring to absorb the sharp bumps. The ride is much better than the OE ride, especially when hitting sharp bumps.

We tested shorter bumpstops to give more travel, but the required short bumpstops would require stiffer rate. Bottoming on the stiffer bumpstops is not very pleasant.

This is the best setting for use with the existing OE dampers. I hope this addressed all your concerns. Feel free to post any other questions.

Eibach Tech

Eibach Guy,

I am not disputing the need for a long bump stop, I am disputing that you guys made it LONGER then the stock one, so there is even LESS travel then the ORIGINAL FACTORY one.

Again, I am NOT disputing we have limited travel before we hit exhaust, what I am saying is you guys limited it even more now, so that the jeeps RIDE on the foam bumpstops, where as before in your PRE NEW BUMP STOP CONFIGURATION, I had about 1 inch clearance before engageing the EIBACH bumpstop.

I hope this is clearer, I think you completely missed the point in what I was saying. If I had take photos of the INITIAL eibach install where you put YOUR foam bump stop in the STOCK cup, it was a shorter package over all, vs your NEWER LONGER package.

what KILLS me is that I called you guys and talked with 'dave from tech' on whether this package was SHORTER then the stock package and he said 'yes, a little bit'

WAYYYYYYYYYYYYY WRONG. ITS LONGER...

grrrr... This sucks.

Jon

PS. I want to be clear, im not some punk kid who is a nay sayer. I have been buying and racing Vipers for 6 years now, and I know how to set up suspensions, this fix for my MILDLY impacted jeep isn't working, imagine what its going to do for the guys who were have MAJOR issues. You guys missed the mark on this one.. sorry.

SO then basically, the ride is partially better than previously with the bumpstops? Does it bottom out just as much? Less? More? I have my eibachs now and am waiting for these bumpstops- im going to hold off on installation till we hear more.

The ride is actually a little firmer because NOW your riding on the bumpstops, which provide a little more support, on the FLIP side, now you have LESS movement potential, so your going to bottom out SOONER.

Wow, I have to get myself to English class or something, seems like no one is understand what I am trying to convey.

The ride is actually a little firmer because NOW your riding on the bumpstops, which provide a little more support, on the FLIP side, now you have LESS movement potential, so your going to bottom out SOONER.

Wow, I have to get myself to English class or something, seems like no one is understand what I am trying to convey.

Ok I understand now....so theres more of a chance of you bottoming out, but when you do bottom out, your Kidneys dont hurt as bad lol.

I think before the bumpstops sat so high that they really did not cushon the ride (when mine bottomed out it sounded like someone hit my chassy with a sledge hammer). Now that they sit lower they should help absorbe the bumps and therefor feel softer.

There is far less movement now, so your going to bottom out SOONER.

There is far less movement now, so your going to bottom out SOONER.

Ok, so now that you have the new bumpstops installed, would you of rather left the springs the way they were pre new bumpstops? Or when you bottom out is it less harsh, yet it occurs more?

Hobson? Anybody seen Hobson around here? :ack:

I guess I'd say, I wouldnt have bothered spending the time to have done it. I also wouldnt spend the time to undue it.

Its pretty much a wash. Not as 'harsh' I guess of a bottom out when they happen, but they happen more frequently now.

So my 'guess' at a solution would be to trim down the 'spacer' about 1/2 inch and see if that helps eliminate MY bottoming out (meaning I know everyone is going to have their own 'setting').

Then if that improved it, but didnt eliminate it completely, I'd take off AT MOST amother 1/4 of an inch, and then if that wasnt the 'final fix' I'd put the HIGH durometer Poly bumpstop from energy suspension.

Given that the 'spacer' is one solid piece, if you have a lathe, its basically 'tuneable' in length, of course, after you cut it, you certainly cant add it back, so be sparing if anyone wants to try this.

Jon

Thanks for taking the time to look at this issue. I'd sure like to know how your adjustments to the bumpstop go. I have uninstalled springs and am soon to receive my new bumpstops. Maybe sometime on a lathe will do the trick.

What if we put the longer softer compound bump stop in the stock bump stop cup?
Just a thought.

Eibach Guy,

I am not disputing the need for a long bump stop, I am disputing that you guys made it LONGER then the stock one, so there is even LESS travel then the ORIGINAL FACTORY one.

Again, I am NOT disputing we have limited travel before we hit exhaust, what I am saying is you guys limited it even more now, so that the jeeps RIDE on the foam bumpstops, where as before in your PRE NEW BUMP STOP CONFIGURATION, I had about 1 inch clearance before engageing the EIBACH bumpstop.

I'm also an Eibach employee. The answer to your question is in the original response. Having the suspension on the bumpstop is normal and in some cases the OE suspension on cars is designed the same way. See below.

The new bumpstop that Eibach provides is a much better progression than the OE bumpstop. In this case, it is used as a secondary spring to absorb the sharp bumps. The ride is much better than the OE ride, especially when hitting sharp bumps.

I guess I'd say, I wouldnt have bothered spending the time to have done it. I also wouldnt spend the time to undue it.

Its pretty much a wash. Not as 'harsh' I guess of a bottom out when they happen, but they happen more frequently now.

So my 'guess' at a solution would be to trim down the 'spacer' about 1/2 inch and see if that helps eliminate MY bottoming out (meaning I know everyone is going to have their own 'setting').

Then if that improved it, but didnt eliminate it completely, I'd take off AT MOST amother 1/4 of an inch, and then if that wasnt the 'final fix' I'd put the HIGH durometer Poly bumpstop from energy suspension.

Given that the 'spacer' is one solid piece, if you have a lathe, its basically 'tuneable' in length, of course, after you cut it, you certainly cant add it back, so be sparing if anyone wants to try this.

Jon
We would also advise you to not make your own adjustments on this kit as it will void the warranty. If you have any other questions on this issue, feel free to call us again and speak with Phong.

how about a solution for the crappy ride of the rear springs???

I think this is their solution and that's pretty much it. No other revisions, additions, or updates.

The new bumpstop update will feel firmer but will not bottom out hard. The Eibach bumpstop has a nicer progression than the OE so initially it feels soft but gets stiff to support the car on hard hits. We would suggest using the updated Eibach bumpstop kit.

Using a hard short urethane bumpstop will not help. You may get good travel initially but when you take a hard impact it will hit hard.

Cutting the bumpstop cup support/spacer will give you a little more travel but you will risk hitting your axle against the exhaust. If you have larger after market exhaust, it will be even closer. So we do not recommend this method.

This car's suspension travel is already minimal from factory but the Eibach Pro-Kit can still lower and improve the handling. The kit was tested and we approve of it. We do have customers that are very happy with this kit.

Eibach Tech

Hey Guys, This was a question and answer I pmed to the Eibach Tech...seems like A good idea to install these IMO...
Hi,
Ryan here- and I have the Eibachs which I purchased from someone here on the forum and I am awaiting the bottoming out solution from you guys. While I am waiting for these new bumpstops, I just have 2 questions for you.

I assume you drove the GCSRT8 before and after the new bumpstops were installed. So, therefore:
1. When driving, compared to pre new-bumpstops, which setup bottomed out more?
2. Again, when driving, which setup (pre or post new bumpstops) when it did bottom out, bottomed out harsher?
3. Did you notice an improvement of the handling when driving after you installed the new bumpstops, did the handling degrade after putting in the new bumpstops, or did it stay the same?
I just want to make sure when I install these springs that I am tailoring them to what I am looking for- improved handling with a slightly more comfortable ride.

Thank you for your time,
Ryan Devlin

Hello DevssrT,
The revised bumpstop setup uses the bumpstop as a secondary spring. You will bottom as much as you have before, but this new setup will feel plusher than the previous. The bumpstop catches the hard hit sooner and slows down the impact. To answer your 2nd question, the revised version will be plusher. For your 3rd question, the handling improve is there but slightly noticeable over the previous and very noticeable over stock.

Thanks for your inquiries and interest in our product.

Eibach Tech

The revised bumpstop setup uses the bumpstop as a secondary spring. -Eibach Tech[/I]

Ok, I guess, but if this was the 'way to go' why didnt you guys do this in the beginning?



You will bottom as much as you have before, but this new setup will feel plusher than the previous. -Eibach Tech [/I]

When you said this, I actually didn't get mad and go 'wtf, then why do the update if it wont fix the bottoming' instead I said to myself 'you know what, he is honest and that backs up what I was saying. Seriously thank you.

I will add that because you brought the package closer together, you will actually 'bottom out' more if you think about it, as you have reduced the required movement upwards before impacting the hard stop. But I will also concede that its a 'softer' bump.


The bumpstop catches the hard hit sooner and slows down the impact. To answer your 2nd question, the revised version will be plusher.-Eibach Tech [/I]

And this is the reason I concede that your correct about the 'softer-ness' of the whack, but its still going to happen 'more often' then before. But when it does, its maybe dealt with a little better. However it certainly is NOT gone or 'fixed'


For your 3rd question, the handling improve is there but slightly noticeable over the previous and very noticeable over stock. -Eibach Tech[/I]

Well sure, because now the suspension compresses even less now, before it goes into 'go kart' mode, where the suspension is fully compressed and CANT lean or sag as much, because there is even less 'movement' then before.

*I am not saying thats bad, just underscoring why thats the case. Certainly in handling and hauling azz around town this is a GOOD thing, its when you hit a damn BUMP along the way, where its not so good... think go kart and pot hole.. lol.

Anyways, I am but 1 guy who tried the update (perhaps the first on here) and so I certainly want to make it clear its not Gospel, its my findings on my car. I appreciate the honesty put forth in the email to Devssr and also appreciate you guys even BOTHERED to try to fix the issue, instead of pulling an 'ostrich.'

My verdict still stands that I wouldnt be in a rush to get these new bump stops on unless u have nothing better to do, its a marginal improvement at best, some may find it better then I did, and I unfortunately would not recommend this kit to a fellow srt8 owner (the complete kit, only because of the bottoming out issues).

As far as eibach as a company, love you guys on my Porsche's, love you on the Vipers, and probably your great on normal Jeeps, but on SRT8's which already pushed the limit of factory lowered right height, you and current others offering kits have failed to nail down 100% lowering solution without some type of issues.

I have no interest in returning my srt8 eibach springs, I'll just move forward with coming up with a specific solution for mine.

I'll now bow out of this, because I dont want you guys thinking I came here to fight, just came to give feedback, and hey thanks for trying!

Jon

PS. anyone who tries this PLEASE give the suspension a day or two to settle back down after your done jacking the car up and taking the pressure off the suspension before you give your final judgments.

^^Niceley put Jon!!....

2002 Viper,
Thanks for all your posts. We take all our customer's feedback constructively. So I hope I didn't sound cold and dry on my responses. :)

Any how, the Pro-kit we produced for this car has to work with the OE shocks. They are good shocks but if we can generate enough requests from all the SRT-8 owners, we can make dampers to package with the Pro-Kit springs. This would be a much better ride.

Thanks again.

Eibach Tech

2002 Viper,
Thanks for all your posts. We take all our customer's feedback constructively. So I hope I didn't sound cold and dry on my responses. :)

Any how, the Pro-kit we produced for this car has to work with the OE shocks. They are good shocks but if we can generate enough requests from all the SRT-8 owners, we can make dampers to package with the Pro-Kit springs. This would be a much better ride.

Thanks again.

Eibach Tech
How about some coilovers? Every jeep owner on this forum would be all over a set of those:)

I pick mine up today, so we'll see.

This is not the feedback I was looking for. I was hoping these would be some magical cure. My ride is bouncy as crap.

I just received mine a few days ago and was on the fence about having these installed but after reading the reviews and response from eibach tech i guess i will go ahead and install these,i guess it cant get any worse..

speedster104,

Redarding "Any how, the Pro-kit we produced for this car has to work with the OE shocks. They are good shocks but if we can generate enough requests from all the SRT-8 owners, we can make dampers to package with the Pro-Kit springs. This would be a much better ride." , what constitutes "enough requests" to get the dampers made? I've been kicking around the idea of contacting Bilstein to see what it would cost to get them to either re-valve our current shocks or make a replacement one with the lowering springs taken into account. But, if you're considering making dampers I could be convinced to go that route.

Ok, I recieved the package from Eibach and installed abd yes my 08 actually sits on the Eibach Bumpstopp's now......

The ride feels about the same really but it does not give you the horrible slap sound it had before. You still get the spine compression but not the slap which you thought you would break something.

Do I think this was a good fix....NO....yes its better but sitting on foam bumpstoppes as part of suspension on an expensive veh like this soory I feel a little Hillbilly. I know compared to X5's and mercedes are units are a bargian but this just seems wrong to me....my 2 cents.:(

^ i went from the eibachs to the bwoody springs....best decision i have ever made. I'm glad i didnt stick around for this "fix"

^ i went from the eibachs to the bwoody springs....best decision i have ever made. I'm glad i didnt stick around for this "fix"
$330 is an expensive fix. :(

^ it is but when it makes it seem like you're going from a '87 honda to a cadillac its worth it.

Eibach - go and do your re-engineering and please test this time and don't say you did test it when you didn't.

Put in the work up front - in the development phase - then production will go smooth. Come you guys - you are engineers - have some pride and integrity in your product instead of thinking about making a buck.

speedster104,

Redarding "Any how, the Pro-kit we produced for this car has to work with the OE shocks. They are good shocks but if we can generate enough requests from all the SRT-8 owners, we can make dampers to package with the Pro-Kit springs. This would be a much better ride." , what constitutes "enough requests" to get the dampers made? I've been kicking around the idea of contacting Bilstein to see what it would cost to get them to either re-valve our current shocks or make a replacement one with the lowering springs taken into account. But, if you're considering making dampers I could be convinced to go that route.

Hey there, I've actually approached Bilstein (since they made the OEM shocks for your trucks) about re-valving or replacements. I was told that because of the crimp-type seal, re-valving isn't possible. Also, they seemed less than enthusiastic about the possibilities of getting aftermarket shocks for lowered applications made.

Hopefully Eibach can give us an idea how many sets they'd need sold to consider making these, it might be a great solution for everyone....

Jade