Dougsrt8
07-10-2008, 06:37 AM
Installed my “light kit” last night and everything works great!
Purchased three miniature relays, a switch, and a plastic project box from Radio Shack; a 4-wire trailer plug from tractor supply; and used five “clip-on” wire taps to tie into the SRT8 wiring.
• Pulled out the plastic driver’s side panel in the luggage compartment (one screw and three clips) and tapped into the +12V and ground wires on the cigarette lighter.
• Removed the driver’s side rear light (Two push connectors & two clips) and tapped into the red striped wire (Brake/Turn-signal) and the blue striped wire (Tail lights)
• Removed the passenger’s side light (Two push connectors & two clips) and tapped into the red striped wire (Brake/Turn-signal)
The three taps into the tail-lights run directly to a relay coil in the “box”. The other side of the relay coils are tied together and run through the switch to the ground connection. (I am using the switch to break the ground return from the relay coils so that when the switch is off the relays do not operate, and will turn it on each time I plug in the trailer lights)
The +12V tap runs to one side of the normally open contact on all three relays, and the other side of the contacts run to their corresponding trailer plug wire (Tail-light, Left brake/TS, and Right brake/TS)
The ground wire from the SRT runs into the box and ties to both the switch leg and the trailer ground wires.
The relays have such a low current draw that the SRT’s computer doesn’t pick it up as a bulb current issue and provides no alarm. The relay contacts are rated at 5A and since there were two on each relay I paralleled them for 10A to increase contact life.
Purchased three miniature relays, a switch, and a plastic project box from Radio Shack; a 4-wire trailer plug from tractor supply; and used five “clip-on” wire taps to tie into the SRT8 wiring.
• Pulled out the plastic driver’s side panel in the luggage compartment (one screw and three clips) and tapped into the +12V and ground wires on the cigarette lighter.
• Removed the driver’s side rear light (Two push connectors & two clips) and tapped into the red striped wire (Brake/Turn-signal) and the blue striped wire (Tail lights)
• Removed the passenger’s side light (Two push connectors & two clips) and tapped into the red striped wire (Brake/Turn-signal)
The three taps into the tail-lights run directly to a relay coil in the “box”. The other side of the relay coils are tied together and run through the switch to the ground connection. (I am using the switch to break the ground return from the relay coils so that when the switch is off the relays do not operate, and will turn it on each time I plug in the trailer lights)
The +12V tap runs to one side of the normally open contact on all three relays, and the other side of the contacts run to their corresponding trailer plug wire (Tail-light, Left brake/TS, and Right brake/TS)
The ground wire from the SRT runs into the box and ties to both the switch leg and the trailer ground wires.
The relays have such a low current draw that the SRT’s computer doesn’t pick it up as a bulb current issue and provides no alarm. The relay contacts are rated at 5A and since there were two on each relay I paralleled them for 10A to increase contact life.