I've had the beast for about 100 miles now. I have yet to check the tire pressures, but the computer says I have 38 in the fronts and 39 in the rears. This thing is major squirrely making lane changes. It feels like the back end really wants to do it's own thing (oversteering). I'm wondering if a lower air pressure (30-32) would calm it down, or is these things just a handfull to drive all the freakin' time?

The owners manual recommends 33 all around. I've never had mine that high. But some of the problem you describe would still be present if you drop to 33 due to the run flats. Good luck with the new rig and welcome to the family!

31 to 33 #'s is enough for run-flats, some handling problems and ride quality are a result of the stiff sidewalls. Just part of the deal.

TX I think you are talking about the same prob I have.In the right lane the truckers basicaly make a U from there weight for both sides.When you get in that lane the Jeep is all over the place because of the 20's The only way I can avoid it is to stay in the passing lane

Mine start at ~32 and work up to 39 after driving.

Anyways i think its the nature of the beast, after getting used to it there are only a few stretches of terrible freeway that i really have to pay attention on. Switching to non runflats might help.

Well, I've dpropped them down to 32 cold, and it's much better now. I understand all about how wide tires track over slight ruts in the road, and about the harshness of low profile tires. Over the last few years I've owned a Mercedes CLK 430 with the AMG wheels & tires, an Audi S4 with big meats, my current BMW 645Ci, and my '02 Lightning (which is for sale, by the way!!! ;) ), so I'm familiar with all that. The jeep was just way too loose with too much air in the tires. I usually measure the tread wear accross the tires and adjust the pressures to make them wear even, but it takes a few thousand miles, and I just needed a better starting point, and I was wondering if anyone else had had this problem. Bottom line; the dealer sucked at getting it ready for me. I like it just fine now.

I've noticed the tramlining on hot days when the tire temp go up to 38-40 with cold starting pressure of 33. Now that it's been a little cooler the temps don't climb as high in normal driving and they don't tramline nearly as much. I pretty much hate everything about the Goodyear RSAs and plan to get something different before the end of the year (Pirelli Scorpion Zero is my number 1 choice right now in 265 and 295, .2 inches more OD then stock). It seems a few here have switched to Toyo Proxies.

TXBLU - get tire pyrometer and measure the heat of the tread after driving. Take three measurements (outside, middle and inside of tread). When it's fairly even across the tread you have found the correct pressure. It's the quicker then a "few thousand miles of wear" method you speak of. I've done this on my M3 and M5 at Motorsport Ranch and it works...if you do it at MSR you get the added "benefit" of inducing a thousand miles worth of street use wear in one afternoon :) I plan to get out to MSR before I take the RSAs off...may as well wear them a little before I throw them away.

Lincoln,
I will do exactly that. Don't know why I haven't done it before. Thanks!!!!

Mine start at ~32 and work up to 39 after driving.

Heat. Air expands. This is the main reason some dealers (non Jeep) inflate tires with Nitrogen. My Infiniti M45 Sport sees 2-3 psi MAX in pressure difference, winter or summer, hot or cold, standing overnight or driving for 3 hours (19" rims, lo profile, 34 psi). Airplane tires are inflated with nitro. Imagine the pressure difference before and after runway contact on regular air? Ouch.

BTW, the run-flats on the Jeep SRT are SO good, I had 0 (zero) pressure in one of my tires (bolt punctured my tire) and the tire stood almost as straight as the 36 psi one. Amazing.

Deflating yours to 30, 25, even 20, wouldn't make much of a difference, yet you'd risk bending the rims. Not worth it, IMHO.

I am 30 cold and 33 hot.

Another tip to estimate pressure: (from track days, so not 100% applicable to this situation, nor the stock tires with the stiff sidewalls) - draw white chalk marks from the tread to partway up the sidewall. After some hard cornering, see how far up the sidewall that the chalk marks have been rubbed off. I was told you want that measurement to be at an inch or slightly less. (i.e. you're just measuring tire deflection)