With all these sick Heads and Cam packages that the Venders are coming out with. Anyone think with a nice shot and tune we could hit 10s in our rigs? I think it could be done. Oh yeah with full exhaust and intake.:cool:

With all these sick Heads and Cam packages that the Venders are coming out with. Anyone think with a nice shot and tune we could hit 10s in our rigs? I think it could be done. Oh yeah with full exhaust and intake.:cool:

Maybe, However, Traction will be the biggest issue. You would have to have a pretty big shot as well.

Maybe, However, Traction will be the biggest issue. You would have to have a pretty big shot as well.
Good guess.....traction & doubtful.
Bill

Maybe, However, Traction will be the biggest issue. You would have to have a pretty big shot as well.


Well Cobra kid showed us an 11.6 with only a 150 shot and tune. So with heads/cam, full exhaust and Intake, you dont think that would cut .6 off your E/T? Traction I hear ya on. Great thing Nitto came out with that 20" DR.:D

Well Cobra kid showed us an 11.6 with only a 150 shot and tune. So with heads/cam, full exhaust and Intake, you dont think that would cut .6 off your E/T? Traction I hear ya on. Great thing Nitto came out with that 20" DR.:D
Yep (no .6) ,you WILL break the stock rear diff with the Nitto's.
Love Cobra...he has pushed his about as far as you should though.
Great bang for the buck.
Bill

You really think the new nittos will break our rears?

Someone that used to be on this forum (bevsjeep) had the same mods as me with a 125 shot, and he ran consistent 11.6's. In order for us to hit 10's you'll need nitrous, and some kind of FI.

I think the majic number is around 600whp for 10s. That assumes ideal conditions, a 1.6 of less 60' time, and no spinning.

If you can knock down those 3 wickets you could get 10's. And I don't mean consistent 10's, I mean maybe 2 out of 5 runs lands you a 10.9.

I think the majic number is around 600whp for 10s. That assumes ideal conditions, a 1.6 of less 60' time, and no spinning.

If you can knock down those 3 wickets you could get 10's. And I don't mean consistent 10's, I mean maybe 2 out of 5 runs lands you a 10.9.


600whp? You mean 600AWHP or 600RWHP? To those with high hp Jeeps.... How ba do you spin at the track? All four tires break lose? Thatscrazy seeing that its an AWD sys. I'd figure with good track prep. our Jeeps would still do well on stock tires on the track.:confused:

600whp? You mean 600AWHP or 600RWHP? To those with high hp Jeeps.... How ba do you spin at the track? All four tires break lose? Thatscrazy seeing that its an AWD sys. I'd figure with good track prep. our Jeeps would still do well on stock tires on the track.:confused:
Sorry, even with GREAT track prep, you will do the 2 wheel peel(1 rear tire spinning & 1 front tire spinning) with those hp numbers. Actually you may fry the tires.
My stocker was good on traction until I put in the 2,600 stall converter. It then spun the 2 tires.
Bill

Sorry, even with GREAT track prep, you will do the 2 wheel peel(1 rear tire spinning & 1 front tire spinning) with those hp numbers. Actually you may fry the tires.
My stocker was good on traction until I put in the 2,600 stall converter. It then spun the 2 tires.
Bill


WTF? I thought all would hook? :confused: How all does our AWD system work then? Hows FASTSRTGC hooking so well in his stock tire stock rear and frontends?

WTF? I thought all would hook? :confused: How all does our AWD system work then? Hows FASTSRTGC hooking so well in his stock tire stock rear and frontends?
Nope...2 wheel peel.
My theory on FAST....
He does not have a high stall converter.
The supercharger does not add a ton of low rpm power.
He actually MAY have a very slight spin.Other thoughts guys??????
Bill

Sorry, even with GREAT track prep, you will do the 2 wheel peel(1 rear tire spinning & 1 front tire spinning) with those hp numbers. Actually you may fry the tires.
My stocker was good on traction until I put in the 2,600 stall converter. It then spun the 2 tires.
Bill

Yup. I dont have anything close to 600whp, and I spin all the time at the track.

Nope...2 wheel peel.
My theory on FAST....
He does not have a high stall converter.
The supercharger does not add a ton of low rpm power.
He actually MAY have a very slight spin.Other thoughts guys??????
Bill


Belt Conditioner on the tires

You dont need 600whp to spin at the light... It all depends on how much torque the wheels are seeing when you stomp on it. A guy with heads/cam and full bolt-ons might come out of the hole with better than 450 ft-lb at the tires.

The front and rear differential are open, the SRT engineers designed them that way both to save money and to save the drivetrain from the torque load required to turn 4 wheels vice two. You might see a couple guys smoking both back tires with an open diffferential, this is completely possible becuase in an open diff, the torque that both wheels see is identical, if both are already spinning then they will continue to spin with identical wheel torque. If one is spinning then the other is ususally just slowly turning. This is becuase the amount of torque required to just spin a wheel with NO traction is EQUAL TO the amount of torque required of a wheel that HAS traction and is pushing a 4700lb vehicle.. thats the beauty of an open diff, and on a road course, open diffs are sometimes preferred.

Back to the HP numbers though.. when you see the guy making massive low-end spinning through the light that winds up running a low 12 or high 11, with well under 600whp, its becuase his power application front loads itself, he'll run a 1.6 or less 60' time, and scream to a sub 8 second 1/8 mile. But, he's probably running 400-450whp on his N/A tuned heads/cam motor, and by the time they've reached the quarter mile mark, they're running a measily 108-114mph. Then you've got guys with power adders like a huge N20 shot or S/C... they may or may not spin but have a much more modest 60', run a similar time, and trap higher 114mph+. Its their horsepower which is kicking in the last half of the race. With all this in mind, I think the best way to achieve a high 10 seconds is to have sufficient horsepower to accelerate the brick beyond the "spin range" where the AWD '2-wheel-peel' is not a phenomenon affecting performance. You still need to have very good 60' time in order to be competative though.

You dont need 600whp to spin at the light... It all depends on how much torque the wheels are seeing when you stomp on it. A guy with heads/cam and full bolt-ons might come out of the hole with better than 450 ft-lb at the tires.

The front and rear differential are open, the SRT engineers designed them that way both to save money and to save the drivetrain from the torque load required to turn 4 wheels vice two. You might see a couple guys smoking both back tires with an open diffferential, this is completely possible becuase in an open diff, the torque that both wheels see is identical, if both are already spinning then they will continue to spin with identical wheel torque. If one is spinning then the other is ususally just slowly turning. This is becuase the amount of torque required to just spin a wheel with NO traction is EQUAL TO the amount of torque required of a wheel that HAS traction and is pushing a 4700lb vehicle.. thats the beauty of an open diff, and on a road course, open diffs are sometimes preferred.

Back to the HP numbers though.. when you see the guy making massive low-end spinning through the light that winds up running a low 12 or high 11, with well under 600whp, its becuase his power application front loads itself, he'll run a 1.6 or less 60' time, and scream to a sub 8 second 1/8 mile. But, he's probably running 400-450whp on his N/A tuned heads/cam motor, and by the time they've reached the quarter mile mark, they're running a measily 108-114mph. Then you've got guys with power adders like a huge N20 shot or S/C... they may or may not spin but have a much more modest 60', run a similar time, and trap higher 114mph+. Its their horsepower which is kicking in the last half of the race. With all this in mind, I think the best way to achieve a high 10 seconds is to have sufficient horsepower to accelerate the brick beyond the "spin range" where the AWD '2-wheel-peel' is not a phenomenon affecting performance. You still need to have very good 60' time in order to be competative though.


Thanks for explaining the how our AWD sys. works. I'm a lil dissapointed tho. I thought when we launched hard all four tires hooked.

So back to the 10sec idea. From what I got from it...If I have a really nice Heads/cam combo run off the line N/A and then maybe at the 660ft spray the *****. That way I see it if I were spray off the line then I wouldn't spin my ass off.

Thanks for explaining the how our AWD sys. works. I'm a lil dissapointed tho. I thought when we launched hard all four tires hooked.



So back to the 10sec idea. From what I got from it...If I have a really nice Heads/cam combo run off the line N/A and then maybe at the 660ft spray the *****. That way I see it if I were spray off the line then I wouldn't spin my ass off.

I know its somewhat of an intangible concept to grasp, but if you go back and read again, all 4 tires do HOOK. What happens is when the tire, both front and rear, with the least traction exceeds its static friction threshold begins to spin, it continues to spin, and the wheel torque of the spinning wheel is the exact wheel torque of the hooked wheel. DO NOT EQUATE WHEEL TORQUE WITH WHEEL SPEED, they are different. What a locker or posi does is negate wheel torque sharing and instead matches wheel speed, and torque there-in is NOT shared evenly between the two wheels.


I think most of the guys running big spray on a heads/cam motor DO NOT hit it off the line. The 'window switch' has been a term thrown around the forum a few times in reagrds to when the Nitrous is activated. Also, I've heard that Nitrous doesn't do well with the TCM and shifting may present problems, dont know why though.

If you were serious about it, get a fancy Electronic Nitrous controller... some models will allow you to select WHEN and HOW MUCH juice you throw to the motor.

If you were serious about it, get a fancy Electronic Nitrous controller... some models will allow you to select WHEN and HOW MUCH juice you throw to the motor.

http://lh6.google.com/BriansSRT/R2vgjMmCk4I/AAAAAAAAAFM/KOMq7qWGWw8/s800/Nitrous%20controller.jpg

http://lh6.google.com/BriansSRT/R2vgjMmCk4I/AAAAAAAAAFM/KOMq7qWGWw8/s800/Nitrous%20controller.jpg



Link to website? Has anyone used this on a Jeep? Does it piggy back off the vehicle computer?

I know its somewhat of an intangible concept to grasp, but if you go back and read again, all 4 tires do HOOK. What happens is when the tire, both front and rear, with the least traction exceeds its static friction threshold begins to spin, it continues to spin, and the wheel torque of the spinning wheel is the exact wheel torque of the hooked wheel. DO NOT EQUATE WHEEL TORQUE WITH WHEEL SPEED, they are different. What a locker or posi does is negate wheel torque sharing and instead matches wheel speed, and torque there-in is NOT shared evenly between the two wheels.


I think most of the guys running big spray on a heads/cam motor DO NOT hit it off the line. The 'window switch' has been a term thrown around the forum a few times in reagrds to when the Nitrous is activated. Also, I've heard that Nitrous doesn't do well with the TCM and shifting may present problems, dont know why though.

If you were serious about it, get a fancy Electronic Nitrous controller... some models will allow you to select WHEN and HOW MUCH juice you throw to the motor.


OK. I get ya. I've always had a problem trying to understand the whole posi, locker, open diff. :mad: I'll be doing more research on the nitrous and TCM.

..........my opinion........

not taking anything away from anybody, but it is harder than it
sounds to pound out a lucky sub 11.5 pass in a Jeep.

The perfect conditions I had on a great track helped a lot.

Another cool guy was at the track, the same day.

Had heads, cam, tune, intake, exhaust and a 100 shot.

He wasn't spinning and ran low 12.4s-12.6s all day.

I actually went 12.54 that day with no juice at all.

With heads & cam, tune has to be dead nuts on, in my opinion....because what he was running
did not make sense to me at all.

When I ran 11.49...11.62....11.66, my truck was dead hooked.

1.60 was best 60...average 1.63.

Hoped this helped a little, sometimes everything just comes together perfect.

....and the computer might be tricked for just a split second and
let some extra power through.

I don't claim to understand how it all works, I just know
parts, and over thinking, and over spending
doesn't always mean you will be the baddest.

I admit I have been pretty lucky, but I am not "very"
reckless like some people think.......

This year I think I am going to try and spray a 100 on 1
button, and another seperate 100 on another button.

...honestly I am only expecting to maybe run at best around
an 11.2@118 or so?

10s without totally cracking the factory computer are
going to be pretty tough, and it is not totally all
about having the most horsepower ??????


Good luck.

Glad you chimed in Cobrakid. What heads/cam package you running? I still thought you were only spray and tune? Like everyone knows tunning is what holds us back. I really think SCT is the answer for us all.

Your still rocking stock tires and tranny also?

He is not running heads/cam. He said another guy was on the same day he was there.

He is not running heads/cam. He said another guy was on the same day he was there.

How was he running 12.5 off the bottle then? or was he talking about the other guy? I'm confused. :confused:

How was he running 12.5 off the bottle then? or was he talking about the other guy? I'm confused. :confused:

Perfect track conditions/tune/no wheelspin. One of the fastest tracks in the US:D

Perfect track conditions/tune/no wheelspin. One of the fastest tracks in the US:D

So with only a tune stock everything else......running mid 12s.:eek: I need a tune ASAP. lol

I think the point at what is getting at here is that there are a lot of variables that go into your 1/4mile time. So much so, that its possible for a 12 second truck to score a mid 11 pass when the planets are aligned in the 7th formation of the zodiac concurrently with the second tuesday in Lent.

A lot of people look at cobra-kid's 11.46 and say... "wow, with just spray&tune I'm in the 11's"... wwwwwwwwwwwrooooooooooooooonggg!!!!! Since these Jeeps have existed, a 6.1 running 100-150 shots were mid to low 12 second trucks. Consistent 11's were only achieved by using a combiation of dual power adders, such as stroke (displacement), forced induction, Nitrous, or a top-end package.

Given the AVERAGE SRT-8, which say... is you. Just a tune will land you approximately 20 horsepower, and shave maybe 2 tenths off your quarter time. Making yo u a very low second truck, with the POSSIBILITY of running a very high 12... becuase its all about that range of variables we eluded to earlier.... if you happen to get a great launch, its nice outside, you dont spin, the track is fast.. etc. etc. etc.. you'll see a 12.

I understand that every vehicle is different. I'm not saying with heads/cam, tune, full exhaust, intake will get u a 10sec slip everytime but I still think you could get a 10 out of our Jeeps with this set up.

I understand that every vehicle is different. I'm not saying with heads/cam, tune, full exhaust, intake will get u a 10sec slip everytime but I still think you could get a 10 out of our Jeeps with this set up.

If you run a 10.99 with nothing but heads/cam/tune/full exhaust/intake, then I'll be a monkey's uncle, lol, good luck. That particular set up will net you consistent 12's, 10's.. NO WAY.

If you run a 10.99 with nothing but heads/cam/tune/full exhaust/intake, then I'll be a monkey's uncle, lol, good luck. That particular set up will net you consistent 12's, 10's.. NO WAY.

I forgot to add the shot of NOS the everything to my last post.