I am in the process of upgrading all my speakers and adding a sub. I have already done the instrument panel speakers and that is detailed here:

Great cheap stereo upgrade... (http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=854&highlight=Memphis)

This weekend it was the front door speakers. I replaced them with these bass units:

CDT Audio ES-600 (http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1566)

These have a very tight clean sound. Here are the pictures from the installation.

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I am in the process of upgrading all my speakers and adding a sub. I have already done the instrument panel speakers and that is detailed here:

Great cheap stereo upgrade... (http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=854&highlight=Memphis)

This weekend it was the front door speakers. I replaced them with these bass units:

CDT Audio ES-600 (http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1566)

These have a very tight clean sound. Here are the pictures from the installation.

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417

418

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421

they look good

how much better do they REALLY sound?

If you like wild and woolly bass stay with the factory units. These are more low profile and accurate. I am very happy with them!

I take it you're running the CDT's off the factory amp? How much more clearance is there for a deeper speaker?

Yes, they are running off the factory amp.

I think these were 2 3/4 inches, WKJeeps says 3 1/16 inches max. It looked like even more when I was in there, but maybe you have to allow for the window closing.

Interior trim & audio component removal (http://www.wkjeeps.com/interior_trim.htm)

Very nice.You thing for 45 G's we would have gotten a decent stero system.

Incase you ever decide to buy the tweeters or any more CDT equip in the future talk to:

islandsound1@yahoo.com

or DJdilliodon (AIM). He is a dealer for CDT Audio and can get you great prices on some of the best speakers made in the USA.

radduc, I think the factory system sounded ok, but I am a music nut. I wanted to see where I could get with just upgrading the speakers and adding a sub. From the first two upgrades, I think the existing amp will be OK.

SiriusRIMZ, thanks for the tip. I have already purchased the CDT Audio ES620's for the rear set up. I was really impressed with the quality of the CDT Audio gear.

I am just trying to figure out how to add a no cargo space sub. I have considered the Bazooka BTA8200 or the Kenwood KSC-SW1. I don't need an earth moving sub, just one that has a clean sound.

Once I purchase a sub, I will install the rears and the sub in one job.

Thanks for the info and pics! I plan on upgrading my doors soon as well. Did you hold off on the rear doors?

Did you hold off on the rear doors?

Please read thread number #8. I just need to make a decision on what sub.

Yes, they are running off the factory amp.

I think these were 2 3/4 inches, WKJeeps says 3 1/16 inches max. It looked like even more when I was in there, but maybe you have to allow for the window closing.
Yeah it's the window when rolled down that limits the depth. After you add an MDF adaptor ring to fit 6.5's in the 6x9 opening you get around 3.5" of mounting depth.
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I used 1/16" aluminum for adapter plates. This resulted in plenty of clearance between the door panel and the speaker front. Thus, I think your estimate is about right for max depth using something like MDF.

I am in the process of upgrading all my speakers and adding a sub. I have already done the instrument panel speakers and that is detailed here:

Great cheap stereo upgrade... (http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=854&highlight=Memphis)

This weekend it was the front door speakers. I replaced them with these bass units:

CDT Audio ES-600 (http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1566)

These have a very tight clean sound. Here are the pictures from the installation.

416

417

418

419

421

Question:

Aren't the 6x9 door speakers limited to the lower frequencies d/t a low frequency bypass filter? Did you remove this filter before you installed this midrange CST speaker?

I'm still considering my options, but watching your progress with interest. Thanks

No, the CDT Audio 600's are bass units. So all I had to do was hook them up. The mids and highs in the front come from the instrument panel speakers.

As I understand it, the rears are full range. I am in progress replacing them and will start a new thread when done.

Looks great, dumb question is that black plastics on the door from jeep or sound deading stuff? I am looking at changing the front and rears but want to add sound deading stuff along with the new speakers. Your sub idea if you can get intouch with idealrides guy he made a great looking enclorsure in his Jeep, That is what I want to do but I could never get the guy to email me back.


Later

chris, when/where did you send me an email? I don't think I ever got anything so please let me know so I can check it out.

The black plastic on the door is the factory weather seal. If you want to add sound deadening like Dynamat Extreme you can put it on the door's sheetmetal then put back the factory weather seal on top. At least that's what I usually do, although some people just ditch the seal. If there's any chance that rain will enter the door when you have your window rolled down then it's good to keep it as it protects the speaker basket.
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I emailed him from the link you give me, He emailed back about the enclorsure
but he had not fixed the problems he had with yours,fixing tie down locate and power locate that he had with the first mold, I had not heard from him since, I like to get one from him with the fixed problems. I think he could sell quite a few on this site and other Jeep web sites.
Later

Chris

I see now, it was Rob that didn't get back to you. Let me explain... in order to make the rear mold for me he actually rented a Grand Cherokee for a day, but had to return the car before he had a chance to make the front of the mold, so the places that had to be cut out didn't match up perfectly. If you're in his area or if he had another Grand Cherokee to use as a template I'm sure he could make it perfectly.

As for mine, I just had to make a few adjustments and it worked out well. I also had my welder fabricate some stainless brackets to hold it down. The bracket in the corner by the tailgate slips behind the factory steel tiedown so I didn't have to drill any holes, just loosen the factory screw to install or remove the sub.
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$350 seems a bit steep for a set of door speakers,No?

You are right, but I wanted to make sure I didn't end up with junk. The quality of the CDT's was really noticeable.

You could probably do better on the value side though. The instrument panel speakers, Memphis Audio 15-PRC3's, were only $45 and also a great improvement.

Don't get me wrong,I truely believe you get what you pay for.I just thought the title of the thread was cheap stereo upgrade.I may be wrong.Looks good though,Im sure they sound even better.That's the one thing on the jeep that really dissapointed me,the stero system.It BLOWS!! :(

Radduc, that was the title of the other thread for the Memphis Audios. And it really fits the thread name.

This thread is "New Front Door Speakers With Pics". Now I have added to the confusion by starting a new thread "New Rear Door Component Speakers With Pics". And next weekend I will start one on the new sub. At any rate, it is easy to get confused with all of these stereo threads (mostly my doing, but WebDiligence also helped)!

LOL!! My bad!

$350 seems a bit steep for a set of door speakers,No?
350 is cheap I paid $1400 a set for focal's

How difficult were the door panels to actually take off? It looks like you did a great job removing them. Did they go back on easily as well?

Steve, there are clearly written instructions at WKJeeps:

Interior trim & audio component removal (http://www.wkjeeps.com/interior_trim.htm#DOORFR)

They also have wiring info, though I found one instance where the color coding was wrong. The factory service manual on CD also helped.

I also found my two 4" putty knives to be quite helpful. They are both heavy duty and one has an angle offset that makes it useful for prying. Overall it was not too hard, you get the knack of it after the first one. All of them went off and back, I am sure no one could ever tell they had been off.

The rear trim panel to get at the amp is not as easy. I ended up with a couple of small dents in the plastic edge that are visible.

350 is cheap I paid $1400 a set for focal's

Focal's are amazing, pics of install? email is jeff@thebackroads.net

MNBob, looking good!

This is my next, adventure (front door speakers) Im going with a single x for a sub. Im wondering if i should stay away from those muddy 6x9s and change them with some 5 1/2s ? will the sub make up for the 6x9s not being there?

CDT???? have i really been out of the loop that long?

chriscorv5, my preference is for a round speaker over an oval design. This being said, some manufacturers are now using ovals for upscale home speakers.

My recommendation would be to use a 6.5-6.75 inch round driver for the front doors. If you are using the factory electronics, you don't need full range as these do not get high frequencies. Also, look for a fairly efficient model to pair with the factory amp.

There are sub frequencies and bass frequencies. Most subs and bass drivers will play a little bit of both (some overlap). My Kenwood has an adjustable crossover so I can control the amount of bass.