Cooling problems after cam install - Cherokee SRT8 Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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Cooling problems after cam install

I just finished installing a new cam (not happy with outcome), drained all the coolant and replaced with new. I started it up and ran it to find there is no coolant flow going on. None of the coolant in the radiator is getting to the motor. I have checked the thermostat in boiling water to verify it is opening. Is there just too much air in the system? What is the next step?

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 09:29 AM
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You definitely have air in the system or your water pump froze. Is there coolant in the tank? Has the level dropped at all?

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 09:47 AM
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This happened to me too. I had to burp the system (release pressure) a couple of times on my drive home to get the air out.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 10:54 AM
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This happened to me too. I had to burp the system (release pressure) a couple of times on my drive home to get the air out.
Exactly what Dan said
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 11:13 AM
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Do you have a stant radiator cap, thats an easy way of purging the system a few times after purging it from the water pump.

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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The radiator and reservoir is full of coolant and nothing is dropping. How do I purge the air out? I have a non-pressure releasing radiator cap from autozone.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 11:53 AM
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Get a brand stant 18 lbs locking radiator cap at your local auto parts store. Install this new rad cap, let the car run for 30-40 min and pull the red lever up and you will see air burst into the reservor then pull lever back down to lock. do that a few times and that will get the air out. Another method is purge from the water pump. In the area where the throttle body is at, under that on the water pump you will see a hex screw plug, you would loosen that up to release air and tighten back in to seal close.

You can do either one or both like I did.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 05:19 PM
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Get a brand stant 18 lbs locking radiator cap at your local auto parts store. Install this new rad cap, let the car run for 30-40 min and pull the red lever up and you will see air burst into the reservor then pull lever back down to lock. do that a few times and that will get the air out. Another method is purge from the water pump. In the area where the throttle body is at, under that on the water pump you will see a hex screw plug, you would loosen that up to release air and tighten back in to seal close.

You can do either one or both like I did.
I would think he would start over heating if it idles for 30-40 minutes?
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 06:05 PM
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Possibly, Im suggesting at idel and not drive cycle. I would imagine owner would purge system using either method before reaching that point of overthe heating. This is what I did and worked great. Driving the rig with air in system is asking for trouble period! He can overheat quick and bust a head gasket.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 06:35 PM
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Details on the bad experience with the cam might help diagnose the problem. There is a lot that can go wrong with that job.
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