Cooling problems after cam install - Page 2 - Cherokee SRT8 Forum
WK1 Troubleshooting / Problems Discussion / Dealer Service If you are having some problems with your Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 and need assistance in troubleshooting and diagnosing the problem, this is the proper place to discuss it. Were you treated fairly or poorly at a dealer? Warranty issues? Let us know.

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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 08:40 AM
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Idle it until it reaches normal temp on the gauge (215), then release the air via radiator cap or plug in the water pump. I prefer the radiator cap and have used the coolant tank cap before too.

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2015 Billet Silver
past:
2012 300SRT
2009 Jeep SRT
2006 Charger SRT
Too many mods to list for each, so let's just say a lot was done over the years.

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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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I bought a lever operated pressure releasing cap and ran it at idle for a while. I did see many air bubbles coming up through the reservoir. However, I still have no flow into the engine at all. The radiator is still full and my defroster is blowing cold air. I can't believe the water pump would have just stopped working.

As far as the cam install, everything went fine. I am not happy with the cam I installed because it seems to be far more extreme than how it was advertised. It is a custom spec cam from Lunati and it has a radical idle (has died while running). I am hoping Johan will be able to remedy some of it. I didn't want to change the valve springs or add a stall converter.

Any more ideas on the cooling problem would be greatly appreciated. I am planning on taking out the thermostat and seeing if I can tell if the water pump is spinning when I turn the motor over.

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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by kf12538 View Post
I bought a lever operated pressure releasing cap and ran it at idle for a while. I did see many air bubbles coming up through the reservoir. However, I still have no flow into the engine at all. The radiator is still full and my defroster is blowing cold air. I can't believe the water pump would have just stopped working.

As far as the cam install, everything went fine. I am not happy with the cam I installed because it seems to be far more extreme than how it was advertised. It is a custom spec cam from Lunati and it has a radical idle (has died while running). I am hoping Johan will be able to remedy some of it. I didn't want to change the valve springs or add a stall converter.

Any more ideas on the cooling problem would be greatly appreciated. I am planning on taking out the thermostat and seeing if I can tell if the water pump is spinning when I turn the motor over.
No clue???
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 08:52 AM
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Quick question, when you refilled with coolant after cam install, where did you refill through?
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 09:21 AM
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when you put coolant back in a car, you need to start it up empty with the cap off, then start filling through the rad till the thermostat opens then you should be able to add more, air bubbles will flow out, you can run an engine with full rad and coolant will not pump out, however you have to put the cap on before you shut off the car and if the car is warm then you have to start the car before taking the cap off to check level doing so relieves the pressure in the system so it doesnt spray you. filling the bottle on the fender is very last once rad is filled
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 09:38 AM
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when you put coolant back in a car, you need to start it up empty with the cap off, then start filling through the rad till the thermostat opens then you should be able to add more, air bubbles will flow out, you can run an engine with full rad and coolant will not pump out, however you have to put the cap on before you shut off the car and if the car is warm then you have to start the car before taking the cap off to check level doing so relieves the pressure in the system so it doesnt spray you. filling the bottle on the fender is very last once rad is filled
I was always under the impression you remove the water neck and T-stat and fill their first. At least thats what I did on my Charger a few times. I was told to do it that way from several people who work on these motors for a living. Then put t-stat and water neck back on and top off from above.
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 09:55 AM
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I was always under the impression you remove the water neck and T-stat and fill their first. At least thats what I did on my Charger a few times. I was told to do it that way from several people who work on these motors for a living. Then put t-stat and water neck back on and top off from above.
you dont have to, the rad cap is the highest point in system. ive worked on a few and never had any issues. only time u need to worry is when you see an allen head plug screw on the upper rad hose engine side, then thats higher than the rad cap and you need to fill there to get bubbles out, just like on the jeep 3.7/4.7L
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Also, I stripped out the bleed screw near the water pump.
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 10:02 AM
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u dont even need to touch that
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 10:03 AM
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on a side note on thermostat install, you need to make sure that the small hole on it is towards the top
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