TTR How to Remove the Entire Dash on a WK1 for HVAC access - Cherokee SRT8 Forum
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-16-2015, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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TTR How to Remove the Entire Dash on a WK1 for HVAC access

The following steps are how to remove your entire dash from a WK1 2008-2010. This would only serve as a guide for the 2005-2007 models since there was a mid model change.

If you need to replace anything internally on your HVAC box you will have to do this. I completed this task to change my evaporator Core

The following tools will be needed to complete this job.
7mm socket
8mm socket
10mm socket
1/2" socket
T-15 Torque
T-20 Torque
T-25 Torque
A pick tool
90 degree driver head
panel removal tool (Or some other tool that can assist in removing plastic snaps) and dash pieces. It should be made of plastic or some material that will not damage the dash
Seat covers to protect the leather from getting scratched
Funnel
Plastic container for fluids

The total time for this job is 10-12 hours and the difficulty is moderate.
Inorder to complete this job, it is important to make sure you have a good light source when working, all the right tools, space to put all the parts when you remove them, and a friend to help you with removing the larger heavier items.

Step 1:
Cover your seats with the seat covers or something to protect the leather. You will want to have extras on hand to cover anything you don't want scratched. Disconnect the battery.
Start removing the trim piece under the glove box on the passenger side and do the same for the driver side. These will be held in place by 7mm screws.

Step 2:
Remove the passenger glove box. To remove the box you will have to remvoe the limit strap on the far right side of the box then pull the top rubber stops down to allow the glove box to open further. Unclip it from the dash and disconnect the IPOD cable if Equipped. Complete the same task for the driver side. The driver side will just pull open and can be removed.

Step 3:
Remove the Kick panel on both driver side and passenger side.They are held in place by snap clips and will just pull out with mild force. You will have to pull the long door sill plastic trip to be able to pull the kick panels out. During this step also unscrew the HOOD RELEASE latch. It has 3, 10mm blots holding it in place.

Step 4:
Remove the A pillar on both the driver side and passenger side. Use a small pick too to pull out the small square trim cover. Then you will need to remove 2, 10mm LONG bolts from it. Then pull on the handle towards you as you are siting in the seat. The snap clip will pull out and you should be able to remove the trim panel with ease.

Step 5:
Remove the Dash trim from the passenger side and driver side. This is the part of the dash that the door blocks when it is closed. To remove just push on it from inside the glove box side for the one and do the same on the driver side. They are held in place by snap clips and will unclip with mild force.

Step 6:
Remove the vent grills on the top of the dash closest to the windshield. They are help in place by snap clips and will remove fairly easy. They will expose 2, 10mm bolts. These bolts can be removed now or at a later time. I recommend you remove them now.

Step 7:
Remove the center console and gear shift control box. Start by removing the chrome trim around the gear shifter and then follow it with the next trim part. All are held in place by snap clips. Be carful not to use too much pulling pressure because you can break the plastic. Using your trim panel removal tool will help.

Step 8:
Remove the rubber base from the large cup holder and remove the 1, 8mm bolt

Step 9:
Remove the rear panel from the center console that has the rear seating controls on it. It s held in with snap clips. Start from the bottom and work your way to the top. One off disconnect all plugs from the panel. Remove the 2, T-20 screws from the bottom of the metal bracket.

Step 10:
Carefully start wiggle and pull the center console to the rear of the Jeep. The Center console should remove completely.

Step 11:
Remove the gear shift box. There are 3, 8mm bolts that hold it down and 1, 7mm screw that holds the shifter cable to the box. The shifter box is now free and will come out.

Step 12:
On the main harness that runs the length of the center console just removed you need to remove one grounding bolt, 8mm, and disconnect another from a metal blade. Then pull the harness from the points it is secured to. This harness is attached to the main dash harness and will be removed with the dash when it is removed.

Step 13:
Remove the radio trim and AC controls. There is 1, 7mm screw in the bottom pocket in-between the power outlets. The rest of the trim is held in with snap clips. Disconnect all the plugs from the trim piece. Next remove the 4, 7mm screws holding the radio in place and disconnect all plugs from the radio.

Optional:
I cut my lower dash to make the lower dash 2 pieces instead of 1. It makes things more manageable in my opinion but does not have to be done this way.
I cut my dash using a dremel tool. You make one cut in the center on the bottom part of panel. It is covered by the radio trim and center console with it is all together. Cuts 2 and 3 are near the radio. In the following picture you can see where my finer is, is where I made the 90 degree cut.
Click image for larger version

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Step 14:
If you have made the cut you and now remove all remaining 7mm screws on the passenger side. I think there are 5 that are visible. there are 4, 7mm screws that can be seen from the passenger side floor board as you look up. They need to be removed so the top part of the dash can be removed. Also remove the 2, 7mm screws near the latch of the glove box. You do not need to remove the screws holding the latch in place. Also during this step, take the time to unplug the passenger airbag. It is the only yellow connector. Then remove the 2, 8mm bolts that hold the airbag box to the metal dash support. The airbag is still held in place to the upper dash. You do not need to do anything else for the airbag. At this point you can remove the passenger side of the lower dash if you did the optional step.

Your dash should look similar to this
Click image for larger version

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Step 15:
Remove the steering column from the Jeep. Remove the 3 T-20 screws to remove the steering column trim. The steering column is held in place by 3, 1/2" bolts that can be seen looking up from the floor board. There is a 4th 1/2" bolt at a 90 degree angle. The steering joint close to the firewall has 1, 1/2" bolt. This should be removed first before the other bolts. the steering column is heavy and awkward as it comes loose.
**It is important that when you remove the steering wheel, you need to tape the wheel to the column to prevent it from turning. If the wheel spins freely and you do not realign it back to 0 you will get various error lights.**
If this happens the simple fix is to turn the wheel either to the right or left until it stops. Then you will turn it the opposite direction you just turned it one rotation until it's looks correct, then two more additional turns. For example full lock left the steering wheel controls would be at 2 o'clock and 7 o'clock rotate the wheel the opposite direction so they are now at 9 and 3. Then make two more complete turns and your steering wheel will be correctly aligned.

Step 16:
Remove the instrument shroud and cluster. The shroud is held in by snap clips just pull up and out to remove. Then remove the 2, 7mm screws that hold in the cluster. Disconnect the 2 connectors on the back.

Step 17:
Remove all remaining 7mm screws from the lower part of the dash and remove the plastic trim. You will have to disconnect the switch for the power pedals and 4, 7mm screws for the ignition switch. Again you can only do this if you did the optional cut.

Step 18: Remove all remaining 7mm screws from the upper part of the dash and the 2, 10mm bolts in the dash vents if you have not already. There are 3, 8mm bolts where the radio was that need to be removed as well. I would recommend you remove the speakers to take some of the weight off the dash. You don't have too, but it makes it more manageable without them.The plastic over the speakers will unsnap exposing 2, 7mm screws per speaker.

Step 19: Remove the upper dash from the Jeep. Take your time to make sure you have removed all screws and bolts. There are quick a few in the dash. Never pull to hard, the dash won't fall out but it will sit in place without any screws. Also make sure you remove any wires that are hooked to the upper dash and disconnect the sensor from the center of the upper dash.

With your upper and lower out your dash should look something like this now.
Click image for larger version

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Step 20:
Remove the dash cage or skeleton as I cal it. First look near the drivers kick, there are 2 big plastic plugs held in by 1, 10mm bolt each. Unscrew the bolt and disconnect the plugs. The bolts will remain in the male end of the plug. Next remove the 4, 10mm bolt, 2 per side and 2, 7mm screws, 1 per side. The dash is now free of all major hardware and attachment to the body of the jeep. The dash is held in place by 2 guide pins that look like rivets. You do not need to remove them. This is where your buddy can give you a hand in removing the skeleton. Be careful when removing as you may find you forgot to disconnect or unscrew something. Also use care to make sure you do not hit the skeleton on anything because the metal is rough cut and will damage things.
You should be able to see your HVAC box completely now and have full access to most of your fire wall now.

Your dash should look similar to this now. I removed my HVAC box and then realized I should have taken the picture.
Click image for larger version

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Remember to take your time, make sure you have the right tools, and don't force anything.
Do these steps in reverse to put it all back together. Use extra care when putting the skeleton back in so it properly lines up and mates up properly with the HVAC box. Also ensure you plug all connections back in. Failure to plug in some will most likely result in error codes or the Jeep not functioning properly.

2010 SRT MODs that matter, CAM, Kooks headers, Kooks mids, Corsa Cat-back, and D1 ProCharger.
Then a bunch of mods that don't matter but make me happy.
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Last edited by JägerBömb; 01-17-2015 at 11:14 PM.
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-16-2015, 08:40 PM
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Now I have a better understanding of why the dealer charges so much. Great write up! I'll drop by your place to help me when mine goes south! ��

'09 Brilliant Black, all options, dual Kicker Sub, ambient interior lighting kit, cabin filter, Escort 9500ix w/Stealth mirror cord, Blendmount mirror mount & ZR4 Shifters, Mopar PDA holder, Weathertech Mats w/SRT Logos, Mopar CAI, BT Catch Can w/underhood dress up kit, Jeep rear cargo tray, HID fogs w/functioning rear fogs, shorty 8" black antenna, 6.1 Hemi Badges (fenders), SRT8 badges (doors), Intune & Johan Tune
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-16-2015, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASLEEPER View Post
Now I have a better understanding of why the dealer charges so much. Great write up! I'll drop by your place to help me when mine goes south! ��
Its all labor. I had to replace my failed evaporator core. The part was 50$ and it was brand new from a respectable parts supplier. The dealership quoted me 1200-1500$. They can go pound salt. I would be happy to supervise your work as you do it. I can be your beer assistant.
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