Thermostat advise? - Cherokee SRT8 Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2007, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thermostat advise?

Guys,
It is extremely hot here in Miami, what thermostat should I go with: 170, 180, 190? Everyday it's in the 80's and 90's. I think if I add the thermostat I should see an improvement...but which one?
Help!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2007, 09:19 PM
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Go with the 170.As long as you are over 50 degrees or so no CEL.I am about to switch to the 170
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2007, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EX-SVTMAN
Guys,
It is extremely hot here in Miami, what thermostat should I go with: 170, 180, 190? Everyday it's in the 80's and 90's. I think if I add the thermostat I should see an improvement...but which one?
Help!
EX-SVTMAN
I did a 180* for my X and have a controller like this that lets me adjust my fan so it can turn on at any temp I want.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

My fan is set to turn on at 185* and have great motor temps everywhere. It worked GREAT in the HOT HUMID weather in Cancun.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2007, 09:26 PM
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Thats pretty cool man!
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2007, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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I want to do the 170 since it's so freakin hot down here...and humid too. Lower is better in my case right?
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2007, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EX-SVTMAN
I want to do the 170 since it's so freakin hot down here...and humid too. Lower is better in my case right?
You don't want to be to cold. Try keeping an average temp of about 190 or so. The problem with having a t-stat that opens to early is that eventually on a hot day it will always be open, and more prone to heat soak the motor. I have a 180* t-stat, they actually open like at 183*, and a probe and controller for my fan that activates my fan at 185*.

So what I have accomplished is to let my t-stat open at say 183*, woooosh the cooled water enters the motor and drops the temp lower than 180* and the t-stat shuts again, then the radiator retains the water again and cools it and has it ready for when the motor re-heats. Keep that cycle going and avoid the fan from turning on.

While running hard or in traffic or a hot day, when my t-stat opens at 183* and the initial wooosh of water isn't enough to cool the motor back down to re-close the t-stat, at 185* my fan turns on, then with the help of the initial cool water that just started circulating and now with the help of the fan, I get temps back down under 180* again, and my fan turns off and my t-stat closes again. That is a great cycle to try to achieve. If im racing around its to hard to achieve this but my motor will be about 190-200ish. Which is a nice temp to have great power anyways.

I'm still experimenting. It might be better to have the fan turn on a little before the t-stat to try to avoid it from even opening, if the fan needs help, then wooosh the t-stat will open the flood doors and from the fan already with the cooling "headstart", will also drop temps below 180*, close the t-stat and shut down the fan. This is another approach, but you get the idea.

I almost did a lower t-stat but it is harder to maintain a cycle as this at lower temps. What happens is that its to hard to maintain a consistent lower temp, the t-stat will open at about 173* or so, then the fan turn on at about 176*(or vise-versa), and to have the t-stat open and close so you can constantly have cooled water in the radiator will be a battle... the nature of the heat of a motor is to hard to maintain it at such low temp. So what happens is that you wont be able to fight the temps down enough even with the fan, and your t-stat will always be open, your fan will always be running, and eventually you will heat soak, because your t-stat cant do its job anymore to leave fresh cool water in the radiator. PLUS even if you did maintain the temps to about 170ish I would not recommend WOT at those temps. I don't WOT until 180*+.

Also on a real cold day, the 180* t-stat on its own should be able to keep your motor at a good operating temp without help from the fan. A 170* t-stat will generally have your motor to cold in this scenario. And the 170* I think is a double sided sward, because on a HOT day, your t-stat will always be open and will actually make your motor hotter in the long run than a 180* t-stat because your temps will pass 173* MUCH easier than 183* and have the flood doors always open and heat soaking the motor.

I actually tried NOT having a t-stat once, and it did just that. In the end, my motor temp after a while just climbed and climbed. Same effect as always having an open t-stat.

I also went 100% distilled water and water wetter. Helped a lot, lower me about 10* across the board.

Hope this ramble made some sense...
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2007, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EX-SVTMAN
I want to do the 170 since it's so freakin hot down here...and humid too. Lower is better in my case right?
You don't want to be to cold. Try keeping an average temp of about 190 or so. The problem with having a t-stat that opens to early is that eventually on a hot day it will always be open, and more prone to heat soak the motor. I have a 180* t-stat, they actually open like at 183*, and a probe and controller for my fan that activates my fan at 185*.

So what I have accomplished is to let my t-stat open at say 183*, woooosh the cooled water enters the motor and drops the temp lower than 180* and the t-stat shuts again, then the radiator retains the water again and cools it and has it ready for when the motor re-heats. Keep that cycle going and avoid the fan from turning on.

While running hard or in traffic or a hot day, when my t-stat opens at 183* and the initial wooosh of water isn't enough to cool the motor back down to re-close the t-stat, at 185* my fan turns on, then with the help of the initial cool water that just started circulating and now with the help of the fan, I get temps back down under 180* again, and my fan turns off and my t-stat closes again. That is a great cycle to try to achieve. If im racing around its to hard to achieve this but my motor will be about 190-200ish. Which is a nice temp to have great power anyways.

I'm still experimenting. It might be better to have the fan turn on a little before the t-stat to try to avoid it from even opening, if the fan needs help, then wooosh the t-stat will open the flood doors and from the fan already with the cooling "headstart", will also drop temps below 180*, close the t-stat and shut down the fan. This is another approach, but you get the idea.

I almost did a lower t-stat but it is harder to maintain a cycle as this at lower temps. What happens is that its to hard to maintain a consistent lower temp, the t-stat will open at about 173* or so, then the fan turn on at about 176*(or vise-versa), and to have the t-stat open and close so you can constantly have cooled water in the radiator will be a battle... the nature of the heat of a motor is to hard to maintain it at such low temp. So what happens is that you wont be able to fight the temps down enough even with the fan, and your t-stat will always be open, your fan will always be running, and eventually you will heat soak, because your t-stat cant do its job anymore to leave fresh cool water in the radiator. PLUS even if you did maintain the temps to about 170ish I would not recommend WOT at those temps. I don't WOT until 180*+.

Also on a real cold day, the 180* t-stat on its own should be able to keep your motor at a good operating temp without help from the fan. A 170* t-stat will generally have your motor to cold in this scenario. And the 170* I think is a double sided sward, because on a HOT day, your t-stat will always be open and will actually make your motor hotter in the long run than a 180* t-stat because your temps will pass 173* MUCH easier than 183* and have the flood doors always open and heat soaking the motor.

If your fan turns on to much after the t-stat opens, it will prob also be harder to cool the motor down, and your temps will climb. The trick is to get your t-stat to do its job.

I actually tried NOT having a t-stat once, and it did just that. In the end, my motor temp after a while just climbed and climbed. Same effect as always having an open t-stat.

I also went 100% distilled water and water wetter. Helped a lot, lower me about 10* across the board.

Hope this ramble made some sense...
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2007, 01:40 AM
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MotoRad/valucraft 383-170 Autozone thermostat part # 4127; it begins to open at 176*.

It's better than a 180 for power, but not low enough to put it into cold start.

It's a 63.5mm housing vs. the stock 63, so you'll have to take a bench grinder or rasp to it for a bit.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2007, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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"Woooosh" that was a lot of info....lol!
OK, I'll go with the 180 in this case.
Thanks homies!
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2007, 10:15 AM
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Moderator:

Can you please erase my first post #6.

I added some info on post #7, I added paragraph #7.
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