HOW TO: WK2 Black Ops End Links - Cherokee SRT8 Forum
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-18-2015, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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HOW TO: WK2 Black Ops End Links

Tools needed: 18mm deep socket (or wrench if you prefer for some bolts), various extensions to help reach some of the bolts, vice grip pliers, crescent wrench (possibly a 17mm wrench), torque wrench, loctite blue (optional).

At least one jack (totes obvs), but I used a second jack to move the lower arm up and down. You could easily do this with one jack and just use jack stands to hold the jeep up.

Be safe. Use jack stands.

Step 1: Jack up the SRT and remove the front wheel.

Step 2: Place the vice grips on the inside ring of the end link. You’ll see it spin as you remove the bolt, otherwise. As you loosen the bolt, the vice grips will make contact with something and hold it in place so you can completely remove the bolt. Repeat for the bottom bolt.

Step 3: Remove the factory end link. You’ll need to place the jack under the lower control arm and jack it up. Watch the end link as you raise the arm, you’ll eventually see the tension on it be relieved and it can easily be removed.

Before placing the jack.


*NOTE* You shouldn’t need to fight to get these things out OR IN. If so, you need to either raise or lower the arm using the jack.

Step 4: Insert the Black Ops end link. I put a dab of Loctite blue on the nut before putting it on the link. I then took my crescent wrench and placed it on the inside of the end link. This is the same principal as the vice grips before. The stud will rotate when you try to tighten it. I BELIEVE it's a 17mm. So using a 17mm wrench would be way easier. I didn't have one, but the crescent wrench worked fine.

Step 5: Torque to 75lbs. and put your heavy ass wheel back on.

Now on to the rear link.

Step 6: Repeat steps 1-2

Step 7: Repeat step 3, but removing the rear end link can be tricky. It bumps into the axle, so I found it easier to pull the bottom out then spin it up to pull the top out. Reinstalled the same way.

Step 8: Repeat steps 4-5.

Take the SRT out for a test drive. Take it over some bumps (I like to find some speed bumps where I can take one side over at a time) to see if you hear any popping (maybe didn’t get it seated well when tightening).

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-19-2015, 07:49 AM
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Nice writeup!!! THanks for sharing, maybe someday I will use it
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-19-2015, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 5000XD View Post
Nice writeup!!! THanks for sharing, maybe someday I will use it
^^^^ Ditto, what he said!!! LOL ^^^^

'12 Silver Jeep SRT - Borla ATAK, Ingen Intake,R1 Rotors, BT Catch Can,180* TStat, "Toona" Tuned, Reverse Fogs, Fully de-badged/de-chromed, Full LED Interior, "SRT" Lower Grill Badge, 392/Hemi Badged, Red/Black ACR Stripe rollin on 22" Niche Milan's 305/35/22 (thats it... for now !
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SOLD'07 Silver Jeep SRT8, Diablo,180 t-stat, CAI, Magnaflow Muffler,end-links,Catch Can, led interior kit, rear fog harness. Carbon-fiber interior, De-badged, 3 TVs with Custom SRT8 Box ,Nitto 420's
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 04:50 PM
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Thanks for your write up. It has been added to the DIY section.

Chad (06 Inferno Red GC SRT8) PWR 6.3L, PWR Apache Heads, Stage6 76 mm Turbo, Stage6 Fuel Pump, SHR NAG1-HTCr, PI 2400 TQ Converter, ATI Flex Plate, BC Coil Overs, Wilwood TC6R calipers, Kooks Headers, Mopar exhaust, MM 85mm T-body, Jerseyboy CMR, Bwoody Sway Links, R1 Concepts F Slot & Dimp, R StopTech Pads, Earls Trans Cooler, TLS Rear Fog Harness

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