Difficulty installing Stainless Works Headers? - Cherokee SRT8 Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Difficulty installing Stainless Works Headers?

I'm looking at some Stainless works headers with cats for 1350.00 that bolt to the stock suitcase muffler.

800.00 OBXs have no cats and aFe headers are 1700.00

With my car on the lift it looks like a real pain to get them in with the HEMI heads, suspension and transaxles

all there.

Can others who have installed headers on their vehicles let me know how much work it was to install them?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 12:04 PM
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It's a pain in the ass and most shops charge a fortune. Usually they inbuilt motor mounts and or drop the motor while dropping everything underneath. Find a capable shop that has worked on them before or wait until u build motor if u decide to and do it when motor is out. Pain in the ass
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Sillyhp View Post
It's a pain in the ass and most shops charge a fortune. Usually they inbuilt motor mounts and or drop the motor while dropping everything underneath. Find a capable shop that has worked on them before or wait until u build motor if u decide to and do it when motor is out. Pain in the ass

It's a full days work. I have done it and it is best approached with the fender liners removed, the front driveshaft disconnected and the differential spun out of the way, and the starter out.

Best of luck!


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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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A buddy of mine who is a master mechanic down the street with his own commercial 3 man shop would do it.
He's looking into the book rate for re and re manifolds.
I'll pass along your comments based on your experience.
He did the longtubes in my Vette and re and re my super pita LT1 Camaro headers 3 times as well as my F350 pickup shorties.
He races alcohol Funny Cars he builds on the weekends and his DD is a 1000 hp 72 Nova drag car with wheelie bars
Good guy to have for this if I decide to go with it.
My quick estimate based on your comments and what I've paid in the past 15 years with him for various car craft things is $850 labor $2200.00 installed for 25 hp

hmmm

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Originally Posted by viking757 View Post
It's a full days work. I have done it and it is best approached with the fender liners removed, the front driveshaft disconnected and the differential spun out of the way, and the starter out.

Best of luck!


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Last edited by Hemi Cruiser; 01-10-2017 at 06:06 PM.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 11:56 PM
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Its not too hard for a good shop.
Count on 6-8hrs work.
I have come across much harder jobs on euro stuff!
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by AuSuperchargedSRT View Post
Its not too hard for a good shop.

Count on 6-8hrs work.

I have come across much harder jobs on euro stuff!


Agreed! Long tubes on a C63 AMG were 10x worse.


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viking757 View Post
It's a full days work. I have done it and it is best approached with the fender liners removed, the front driveshaft disconnected and the differential spun out of the way, and the starter out.

Best of luck!


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So viking
Is the aim here to move the driveshafts and differential out of the way then lower the engine down to get at the exhaust manifold bolts?

I know a transmission shop owned by another racer buddy that did the clutch in my Vette which involved dropping some of the drivetrain and re and re longtube headers, so this is more like what they do.

Last edited by Hemi Cruiser; 01-13-2017 at 02:47 PM.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hemi Cruiser View Post
So viking
Is the aim here to move the driveshafts and differential out of the way then lower the engine down to get at the exhaust manifold bolts?

I know a transmission shop owned by another racer buddy that did the clutch in my Vette which involved dropping some of the drivetrain and re and re longtube headers, so this is more like what they do.


Getting them out of the way gives you better access on the driver side. The passenger side is very easy, especially if you remove the tire and then fender liner.

The driver side you can un bolt the motor mount and jack the motor up a few inches to get to the top manifold bolts.




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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by viking757 View Post
Getting them out of the way gives you better access on the driver side. The passenger side is very easy, especially if you remove the tire and then fender liner.

The driver side you can un bolt the motor mount and jack the motor up a few inches to get to the top manifold bolts.




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Ok viking

Now I get it

I put Felicia back on the lift today and went over your comments/instructions

Can't lower the engine easily due to crossmember.

Remove wheels and inner splash fenders.
Take the front driveshaft out.
Undo the half shafts from the differential.
Remove or swing differential (on 1 bolt of 3)out of the way.
Remove cats.
Remove starter.
Now you have room to get at passenger manifold bolts.
On driver side you have to undo the motor mount and jack
the engine up to get at the top manifold bolts (from above or below?)
Install headers cats to suitcase muffler.
Put axles and differential back in.

That pretty well covers it?

Last edited by Hemi Cruiser; 01-14-2017 at 09:25 AM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 10:17 AM
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Difficulty installing Stainless Works Headers?

You got it! And you jack the motor up a few inches to get at the manifold bolts from above

Don't worry about undoing the half shafts just unbolt the differential isolater bushings so you can rotate the pumpkin out of the way

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Last edited by viking757; 01-14-2017 at 10:18 AM.
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