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Not too happy w my 14 HK bass

5K views 28 replies 9 participants last post by  Hal3ySRT 
#1 ·
Hk clearity is anazing but the bass is weak. I am not looking to rattle my Jeep but a bit of kick would be nice so:
1. Where the subwoofer amp located?
2. Any thing i can do to improve?
3. Can i install JL audio sub externally w bigger amp?
Thank you guys for ur input!
 
#8 ·
Not sure about the 14's but in the 12's the amp sits in the left rear corner. Lift the little holder out in the hack corner and then look back towards the rear inside. You will see the little heap of shit there. The sub on these things are weak...period. The mirrors will shake a little but that is because of the door speakers which are not too bad. If you don't want too much punch then a little JL stealth box will do. They kick quite well and will not wheee the existing sub is. On the other hand if you want a real beast of a system then you can go balls to the wall like I did. I changed everything out. Only then do you really realize how good these things can sound.
 
#13 ·
When you say you "changed everything out", what did you change exactly?

I have some badass speakers waiting to go in, I just dont know how to do it yet. Plus, im waiting for the PAC audio harness to keep the OEM head unit.

I have a 14 SRT with the HK system, but it sucks balls so im changing it out but dont know what to do to keep the HU in control of everything.

Anyway, I have all Hertz Mille component speakers:
2 Hertz ML 280.3 Legend Tweeters for the front A-Pillars
2 Hertz ML 700.3 Legend Midrange for the front doors
2 Hertz ML 1650.3 Legend Woofers for the front doors
2 Hertz ML 280 Tweeters for the rear doors
2 Hertz ML 1600 Woofers for the rear doors.

I'm debating on switching the stock 3.5 Mids in the center dash and the 2 in the rear d-pillars, but havent made a decision yet.
Not going to upgrade the subwoofer just yet, but will soon.

But im stuck on where to begin. I would like to run the 2 front doors active and the 2 rear doors passive, which would mean I need a DSP. So im not sure how I would get a DSP to handle all the Hertz speakers and the stock ones.

Can I leave the stock amp to power the stock speakers and sub, as well as install my own DSP, amps and speakers?
Or do I have to remove the stock amp?
 
#9 · (Edited)
There is plenty of bass in the HK system, so either something is wrong or you don't have it....

It actually shakes the windows plenty, and also sound better as the volume goes up. Its not going to have ear pounding tight bass at low volumes because the majority of owners wouldn't want it to sound like shit. It also doesn't push super lows (below 30-40 htz) that you can feel and not hear like a powerful bass system. If that's your thang, you'll have to upgrade the system.

But if you're not happy with it, I sure swapping out bigger amps and what not with a volume control remote upfront would solve most of your problems.
 
#12 ·
My 2014 HK system kicked ass. If I played music through my phone for to long the whole system would shut down and I would have to pull over and shut the Jeep off and open and close the door to reset the stereo. I actually listen to rap with a lot of bass. My 2016 HK system seems like Chrysler turned the bass down or something. It doesn't sound near as good. I'm wondering if the bass was blowing to many speakers when people were streaming music through their phone so they turned the power down.. Just a thought..
 
#18 ·
Audiocontrol do an 8 channel one as well....LC8i. Not sure if anyone has a 10 channel. With the audio control you can still run your factory sub and amp. You would just tap into the door speaker wires. You really want two amps. A class A/B for your door speakers then a mono block for your sub which you may do later. As for which amp....depends on what you want to spend really. You get what you pay for. With those Hertz speakers you really want a good amp or you will be wasting a lot of potential with them. Sometimes worth just saving a little longer and getting good gear.

The JL stealth boxes are ok. Again depends what you are after. Honestly those speakers you have powered correctly will drown even the JL stealth box The sub they out in is a lower end one so does not pound that well. If space is an issue you can build your box in the spare wheel well. One guy recently on this forum did that. Check it out. My box sits in the back. I wanted to do that so when I want to track my car I can just take it out as it is quite heavy.

You really need balance for any system to sound good. You really want to join some of the audio forums on Facebook and find some guys who have what you would consider then go and listen to it. Guys are always happy to demo their stuff. I gave someone a demo a couple months ago with my jeep and then a month later he had exactly the same set up as me...bastard...lol
 
#19 · (Edited)
Audiocontrol do an 8 channel one as well....LC8i. Not sure if anyone has a 10 channel. With the audio control you can still run your factory sub and amp. You would just tap into the door speaker wires. You really want two amps. A class A/B for your door speakers then a mono block for your sub which you may do later. As for which amp....depends on what you want to spend really. You get what you pay for. With those Hertz speakers you really want a good amp or you will be wasting a lot of potential with them. Sometimes worth just saving a little longer and getting good gear.



The JL stealth boxes are ok. Again depends what you are after. Honestly those speakers you have powered correctly will drown even the JL stealth box The sub they out in is a lower end one so does not pound that well. If space is an issue you can build your box in the spare wheel well. One guy recently on this forum did that. Check it out. My box sits in the back. I wanted to do that so when I want to track my car I can just take it out as it is quite heavy.



You really need balance for any system to sound good. You really want to join some of the audio forums on Facebook and find some guys who have what you would consider then go and listen to it. Guys are always happy to demo their stuff. I gave someone a demo a couple months ago with my jeep and then a month later he had exactly the same set up as me...bastard...lol


So if I do that, with the audio control LC8i, would I be able to keep my stock amp and let it power the stock 3.5s in the front dash, the 2 stock 3.5s in the rear pillars and the stock sub?
I have seen pics of people splicing into their door speakers and it just looks messy. But I also want to save money wherever I can. If I did go that route, I would still need a DSP? Or would I be able to do what I want from the LC8i and the stock head unit?

And if it were you, what amp would you pick to run those hertz speakers? I would prefer just 1 amp to run all of them. So running the front doors active and the rear doors passive, I would need 8 channels. So if money wasn't an issue, what amp would you suggest to power those?
 
#21 ·
That DM810 will do everything I think. I have not used one of those but it looks like it will. Play safe and call the guys at Crutchfield and speak to them about it first before you buy. Those guys are good and honest.

You will be able to run your factory amp with whatever speakers you want as well as the LC8i or whatever you decide to go for. Some guys do splice in by the doors and it does look like shit. Before I had my aftermarket HU I used the lc7i. I tapped in right down by the amp. Bit of a pain in the ass because you need to free up decent access so a bit more work but well worth it.

As for what amp...that can end up in a huge debate between people. It comes to personal preference. I really like the Sundown gear. Their stuff is solid and well priced for what you get. They have two 4 channel amps. The 100x4 and the 200x4. The 200x4 is an absolute monster of an amp but is quite large. I hear they are bringing out a 125x4 to replace the 100x4. You need to decide where you want to install amp as well. If you want to go under the front seat then an amp about 14 inches long is about your limit. My door speaker amp is a sundown 150x4 and is family compact. Fits well.

You will only need one amp to run your door speakers but if you get a sub later you will need another amp. This is what you have to take into account as well.... if you want to have one amp to do doors and have that sub channel then look at JL audio. They have a 5 channel amp. Their HD series are really nice and compact but come with a decent price tag.
 
#22 · (Edited)
That DM810 will do everything I think. I have not used one of those but it looks like it will. Play safe and call the guys at Crutchfield and speak to them about it first before you buy. Those guys are good and honest.



You will be able to run your factory amp with whatever speakers you want as well as the LC8i or whatever you decide to go for. Some guys do splice in by the doors and it does look like shit. Before I had my aftermarket HU I used the lc7i. I tapped in right down by the amp. Bit of a pain in the ass because you need to free up decent access so a bit more work but well worth it.



As for what amp...that can end up in a huge debate between people. It comes to personal preference. I really like the Sundown gear. Their stuff is solid and well priced for what you get. They have two 4 channel amps. The 100x4 and the 200x4. The 200x4 is an absolute monster of an amp but is quite large. I hear they are bringing out a 125x4 to replace the 100x4. You need to decide where you want to install amp as well. If you want to go under the front seat then an amp about 14 inches long is about your limit. My door speaker amp is a sundown 150x4 and is family compact. Fits well.



You will only need one amp to run your door speakers but if you get a sub later you will need another amp. This is what you have to take into account as well.... if you want to have one amp to do doors and have that sub channel then look at JL audio. They have a 5 channel amp. Their HD series are really nice and compact but come with a decent price tag.


So I'm new in this area of installing high performance component speakers. All my experience is from a amp and sub lol. So, with running 6 speakers active up front, and the rear doors on a 2 way passive, I would need 8 channels minimum correct?
 
#23 ·
Lol, no worries. That is why there is forums...so guys can help each other out....

Ok, if you want to run passive up front you will need passive crossovers. Then obviously passive crossovers for the rear. Now, the LC8i will cover you. The LC8i is a line out converter...just a very nice fancy one. The lc8i will be your gateway to take speaker wires, covert to RCA which will then go to your amp. After that you will have your passive crossovers between the amp and the speakers. The lc8i will has controls on it so you can adjust the voltage on your rca's to your amp.

This is why I say all you need is the LC7i. No pint in spending the extra.

How it will work is you tap into your factory wiring by the amp. From there you will pull and front signal, a rear signal and then later a sub signal when you are ready...may as well wire the sub up while you are in there and just leave the RCA off. You OEM sub will still run off your factory amp. Then it all goes through the LC7i to your amp. All you need is a 4 channel amp.... 2 channels for front and 2 for rear.

I hope this makes sense. Seems worse then it is but simply put....OEM speaker wire to LC7i then to amp then to passive crossovers then to speakers...

Now for the front where you want active it is different. The crossover goes before the amp....so it filters everything before it even gets to the amp. Straight forward though....just connect the RCA from the LC7i or 8i to the active then to the amp front channel then off to your front speakers.
 
#24 ·
If you don't have an active crossover yet then you can go for just the Audio control LCQ-1 and be done one hit. That will do the lot. If you get that you will be able to do your front and back with active...going active front and passive back will create a lot of confusion to be honest. Also you can call the guys at Audio Control. Great bunch of guys and will sell you exactly what you want and need. That crossover will be the biggest head ache of the system. The rest is easy
 
#27 ·
Hertz DSP is only $530. Which is surprising, and makes me ask why so cheap. Audison is $1k. JL is $800 I think. Alpine is $800 I think. Audio control releases theirs Feb 17th. Arc audio is $1k.

Stupid ridiculous prices. What happened to the good old days where you hopped on eBay and bought a $40 deck, a $100 amp and a $300 sub and had the best shit ever. :/
 
#28 ·
Just go with the Hertz. They have a good reputation and to be honest you will not hear the difference between the Hertz and the other ones.

The good old days are well behind us now. Whatever you buy on eBay is always suspect these days. Too many scammers and fraudsters out there. You think you are getting one thing but get something else.

Be warned though...once you start just be prepared for some extra cost here and there. There is always something that comes up and that usual hurdle that will cost you quite a bit. When I did mine I planned on about 1500....now it is complete I am 3k in!!! I have no regrets at all. Glad I spent it. The OEM system comes no where near it.
 
#29 ·
Just go with the Hertz. They have a good reputation and to be honest you will not hear the difference between the Hertz and the other ones.



The good old days are well behind us now. Whatever you buy on eBay is always suspect these days. Too many scammers and fraudsters out there. You think you are getting one thing but get something else.



Be warned though...once you start just be prepared for some extra cost here and there. There is always something that comes up and that usual hurdle that will cost you quite a bit. When I did mine I planned on about 1500....now it is complete I am 3k in!!! I have no regrets at all. Glad I spent it. The OEM system comes no where near it.


Shit man. I'm already in a little over $4k!!! But I have to sell some stuff and will hopefully get down to $3k when I'm done.
 
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