I just did my grill rings, lower brake duct rings, and all badges.
I used Krylon Fusion (gloss black - but they have every color so you could use whatever you want) with Krylon Clear as the finish coat. 6 coats of Krylon Fusion base color, 4 coats of Krylon Clear (Gloss). The results are fantastic and look like stock OEM and match the paint almost perfectly - you literally can not tell it was done at home. I think it's probably the best you can get without buying a sprayer, large compressor and using auto paint. I'll put the steps I used below. It is important to follow the correct steps if you want it to look professional.
As to plastidip - I tried that first and it looked janky as heck. I guess if you're okay with having trim look like it was sprayed in some kid's garage with the cheapest junk possible, you'll like it. To me, it looked like hell, like something that belongs on a Civic with a fart tube and a big giant wing on the back. Even with the gloss coat, it was dull and looked like cheap spray paint, and clashed noticeably with the metallic gloss factory paint.
The steps I used for Krylon Fusion (they have gloss red as well):
1) Remove grill rings and trim. The grill rings are easy to remove if you follow the right steps - insert plastic trim tools into each side until the sides pop inward, and then just pull the ring up and outward from the bottom. For decals, use a hairdryer to loosen up the trim tape, and I used the trim tool to pry the decals up and off and it worked great. Use goo-b-gone or the like to remove any remaining glue residue.
2) Wet-sand the grill rings and other trim with mineral spirits and either 220-400 grit sandpaper or a Scotch gray pad (looks like a dish sponge). The white ones work too, but the gray has a bit more bite. To wet-sand, just dip your sanding pad into some mineral spirits, and sand away at the plastic. You just want to dull it up a bit.
3) Let the grill rings dry. Wipe them off with blue shop towels if you're impatient.
From this point on, DO NOT HANDLE THE PARTS WITH BARE HANDS. The oils on your skin will cause the paint and clear coat to not cure properly and it will look like hell.
4) Wash the grill rings with a bit of water and dish soap, again let them dry - wipe down with a blue shop towel if impatient. I like to do one more wash with just water, wiping thoroughly until the parts are totally dry.
5) Properly shake up the spray paint - I shook mine for 1-2 minutes before spraying, and kept shaking while using it. Spray the first coat of Krylon base color, just mist it on there, keep can 8" from the parts and make sure the spray begins and finishes past the part - you want a good steady paint mist. Your first coat should just barely cover the part, just a misty coat. Let that dry for 20 minutes. Lay down another coat of base color, go a bit thicker with this and the following coats. You want to cover the grill ring, but not enough that the paint runs or is blotchy. Let that second coat dry for another 20 minutes. Repeat 2-4 more times for each of the base coats, depending on your preference (4 coats is fine, I did 6 because I'm weird and a perfectionist).
6) After the final base coat, let the base paint dry for at least an hour. If it's cold or wet where you're drying, let it dry for up to 4 hours, but not longer than that. YOU CAN NOT LET IT DRY FOR LONGER THAN 4 HOURS. If you do, the clear coat will not cure properly.
7) When the parts have dried out, you should be able to pick it up while wearing nitrile gloves. It should be fairly smooth, not too tacky. If the part is sticky at all, it is not yet dry.
8) Once the part is dry, use a white Scotch pad to lightly sand it out, you can wet-sand it but just use water. If you use mineral spirits, the paint will tend to lift and you will have to start over. You just want to remove any surface imperfections - hairs trapped in the paint, bugs, any bumps, etc. Just wet-sand it enough to make it smooth.
NOTE: The Krylon Clear is very picky about how you spray it. So pay special attention here:
9) Shake up your Clear really well, for 1-2 minutes. Make sure you're wearing a respirator and nitrile gloves.
10) Coat the parts with a very thin layer of the Clear, use a criss-crossing pattern. You want a light coat, kinda like the paint, no runs or bumps. Don't worry about getting it on thick, just go light with each coat.
11) Wait 1 minute, while shaking the can. You want to put on a second coat of the Clear 1-2 minutes after the first. Repeat this for 4-5 coats. It will look milky and foggy. That is okay. Just make sure there's no bumps or hairs or other crap in the finish.
12) When you have sprayed all 4 coats, you MUST allow the parts to dry for at least 24 hours without touching them. The can says you can handle the parts in 4 hours. DONT BELIEVE THAT. I had to repaint parts twice because I tried to handle them too early and ended up putting fingerprints in my finish. And that sucks. Just let the parts dry for at least 24 hours, and then you can safely handle them. If you really want to avoid any problems, give them 2 days to be safe. Then you can reinstall the rings and trim.
If you do have problems with the finish:
Just sand the parts down with some mineral spirits and 220-grit sandpaper. Then wet-sand with 400-grit and 800-grit. At this point, I generally get some Meguairs scratch-x scratch remover, and polish the parts with a towel or applicator sponge until they are smooth. Wash with mineral spirits or degreaser (or both), then wash a couple times with just water, dry it, and wash it again. Trust me, you do not want residue on there ruining your clear coat. At this point, it should look nice and glossy. Re-do the clear coat steps shown above and you should be okay.
I'll try to post some pics of how mine turned out. You can't tell they're not OEM.