How To Remove and Install Door Emblems (or others for that matter) - Cherokee SRT8 Forum
WK2 SRT8 Interior/Exterior Visual Modifications This section is for discussing WK2 interior and exterior visual modifications

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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How To Remove and Install Door Emblems (or others for that matter)

How To Remove and Install Door (or other) Emblems


Removing and installing the door (or other) emblems on the SRT8 is a pretty common visual modification, either to de-badge the vehicle or to replace the original equipment emblems with a different style or color. One might assume that this is straightforward enough to not require a 'How To" but enthusiasts come in all skill-levels so I thought this might be beneficial to someone down the road.

In my particular case I wanted to replace the chrome door emblems on my 2013 Brilliant Black SRT8 with the gloss black emblems from the Vapor and Alpine editions. A common mod. I had already replaced the JEEP hood emblem with the gloss black version, so I took time to photograph the steps taken with the door emblems to document the process here.


Time Required:
  • 30-45 Minutes per emblem


Materials Required:
  • Fishing line (10# Test worked fine for this)
  • Heat gun
  • Clean microfiber towels, one of which you can bear to part with
  • Gasoline (or other petroleum based, paint-safe solvent)
  • Quality painters masking tape (I used 3M blue, 1" wide)
  • New emblems to be installed
  • Detailing spray
  • Quality automotive wax or last-step sealant



The Process

Step 1.

Here we're starting with the factory chrome door emblems and the goal is to replace them with the gloss black factory emblems sourced from the Mopar parts department. Since we are replacing the emblems with dimensionally identical emblems, we want to make sure that the new one goes back where the old one was. The easiest way to do this is to lay down two pieces of painter's tape to mark your X and Y axis.







Step 2.

Once you have your axis marked to align the replacement emblem, it's time to remove the original one. For this we will use the heat gun to gently warm up a letter, or section, of the emblem and then slide a length of fishing line beneath the emblem to separate it from the adhesive beneath it.

After the emblem is removed, you will be left with something similar to this still stuck to the painted surface:





Step 3.

Now it's time to remove the bulk of the adhesive using the heat gun to warm up the bit left behind and then your finger to slowly roll away the warmed adhesive. Be careful! The adhesive gets hot fast and holds heat, so use the heat gun sparingly so as not to burn yourself when you begin removing the adhesive. A little heat goes a long way!







Step 4.

Once you have the bulk of the adhesive removed, you will be left with a thin residue of adhesive film on the paint.



Now it is time to set the heat gun a safe distance away and use a clean microfiber towel that you can bear to part with, and some gasoline or other petroleum based paint-safe solvent, to remove the residue from the paint. Gasoline works just fine and I recommend you wear some disposable latex or nitrile rubber gloves when working with it, and do so in a well ventilated area.

To remove the residue you will simply wet a section of the microfiber towel with gasoline and then use light finger pressure to "scrub" the adhesive off of the paint. Several passes may be necessary, but the residue will all come off.



Step 5.

Once you have removed all of the residue, use a detailing spray or cloth dampened with a light-duty mixture of car wash soap and water, to clean away the solvent and leave the painted surface ready for the new emblem.



At this point if you are simply de-badging the vehicle, you are done and can remove the painters tape and then apply a quality wax or last-step sealant to the paint to protect it. Remember, the solvent removed any waxes that were already there.



Step 6.

If you are installing a new emblem, most come packaged with a backing film to protect the adhesive in transit, and a transfer film which holds the emblem's components or letters together while it is being installed on your vehicle.



Peel away the backing film to expose the adhesive and then use the painters tape guides that you established in the first step to carefully line-up and install the new emblem.





Step 7.

With the transfer tape still in place, apply moderate pressure to the emblem to fully seat it onto the paint. I used a clean microfiber towel to rub back and forth across the emblem to make sure it was seated completely across the full width.





Step 8.

Now, slowly and carefully begin peeling away the transfer tape. I recommend pulling the transfer tape down and away from the emblem at an angle to minimize the risk of pulling away the emblem itself.







Step 9.

And with that you are done! Peel away the painter's tape, use some detailing spray to clean the entire area again, and then wipe down the exposed paint with a quality wax or last-step sealant to re-protect the surface.

lr9 likes this.

His: 2013 Grand Cherokee SRT8 - Brilliant Black
Hers: 2011 Ford Raptor SVT - Tuxedo Black

Last edited by MaulRated; 06-10-2014 at 04:49 PM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 12:00 PM
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45-50 minutes per emblem??? LOL..........I did the whole car in approx 20 minutes, but good writeup!
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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I padded the time a bit for those who may not move as fast with the project as the more "seasoned" pros. Perhaps dialing it back to 30-45 minutes in the write-up would suffice.

Nothing's worse, IMO, than telling someone a project will take an hour only for it to take them 2-3x as much. Under promise, over deliver.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 04:51 PM
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you guys should be using the 3m adhesive remover wheel, i have been using them for years, put it in your drill and it rubs that sticky stuff right off with not damage to paint, takes seconds, no heat gun needed and much easier on the fingers
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meeper View Post
you guys should be using the 3m adhesive remover wheel, i have been using them for years, put it in your drill and it rubs that sticky stuff right off with not damage to paint, takes seconds, no heat gun needed and much easier on the fingers
Those are nice but I had two motives for not going that route with this write-up.

1.) I tried to stick with commonly available materials a person might have on hand without a special shopping trip

2.) If you use the 3M wheel, you run a high risk of also stripping away the painter's tape that I used for a guide to apply the replacement emblem. The 3M tape clings fast despite the use of solvent.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 07:23 PM
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thanks for taking the time to write this up and share.

2007 Silver GCSRT8 / 426 / Inertia Port and Polish Intake / Kooks LT Headers / Arrington 85mm TB / 4" Bwoody CAI / Magnaflow Catback / Bwoody Endlinks / Rear Addco / Eibach Pro Kit / QA1's / Jet 180 / Paramount Trans / ATI Flexplate / Dominator TC / R1 D|S Rotors + Hawk pads / Nitto 420s / Zex 100 N20 / LED Interior / HID Lows and Fogs / Tuned by Diablotoona
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 07:40 AM
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I didn't even need an adhesive remover for mine, what didn't just thumb right off I used a little cleaner wax and that did the trick very easily. i get nervous using stuff like goo gone or other harsh chemicals on the paint, never know what's gonna take off the clear coat or worse yet the actual paint.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s4morris View Post
I didn't even need an adhesive remover for mine, what didn't just thumb right off I used a little cleaner wax and that did the trick very easily. i get nervous using stuff like goo gone or other harsh chemicals on the paint, never know what's gonna take off the clear coat or worse yet the actual paint.
Goo Gone is a citrus-based product and very mild as far as chemicals go. Certainly won't hurt your paint. Gasoline won't hurt the paint either used in a manner such as this, but again you will want to wash the surface down with either a detailing spray (I use Meguiar's Last Touch) or some car wash soap and water. It would take a much stronger solvent than either of those two to remove your clear-coat in one sitting like this.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 08:36 AM
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good info thanx
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 05:11 AM
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Been doing this since 1995 and i've always used Goo Gone.
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