How To: WK1 Adding Line Level Converter and Highs/Mids to front doors - Cherokee SRT8 Forum
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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How To: WK1 Adding Line Level Converter and Highs/Mids to front doors

This applies to all years of the WK1 production run

I have walked about a dozen board members here through this procedure and they have all been amazed at the difference in sound quality that is, this is something that you can do yourself in less than 2hrs time for less than $100(new front door 6x9s included) that would easily cost you at least $200+parts at a stereo shop

Skill Level...2 out of 5

Time...less than 2hrs total time

Benefits... 1. this fix will give you an RCA output for an aftermarket subwoofer/amp setup that DOES NOT modulate with speed
2. this will remove the bass only output to the front door subs, replacing it with high/mid range and allow you to replace the front door 6x9s with 2 or 3way speakers that will FILL the cabin like it should have been from the factory(even the Kicker setup with the factory sub still ONLY feeds the front door speakers a bass fq, so it benefits just as much)

Cons... the only con to this mod is that all of your component speakers will ONLY be getting high/mid range sound, meaning you will HAVE to have a subwoofer installed to get ANY bass...if you don't add a sub you will HATE how this sounds, hollow

I will break this down into 2 parts, adding a line level converter for addition of an aftermarket subwoofer/amp setup and then the reconfiguring of the wiring so that you get high/mid range from the front doors( it IS best though if you do it all at one time as you'll already be right there at the amp)


open the rear lift gate and remove the top and bottom trim panels
remove the trim panel in the very rear of the drivers side cargo area
remove the 2 screws in the drivers side cargo area trim panel
pop loose the drivers side cargo trim panel and place about a 14" long brace/wedge in
so that you don't have to hold the panel open with your elbow

you will now see the factory amp in the very rear of the drivers side cargo area

on top of the amp there are 2 plugs, the left plug(rearmost) and the right plug(front most)

for the line level converter we will be looking at the left plug(rearmost)

see picture below

(you do NOT need to unplug the plug from the amp to do this job)

when looking at the left plug look at the 4 furthest left( rearmost) wires that are in the plug
these wires will be gray/yellow, gray/purple, green/yellow and green/purple

follow these 4 wires about 4" away from the plug and cut them each in half***
***(if you are not wanting to fix the front doors at this time DON'T cut these wires, use t-tap connectors to splice the line level converter into these wires)***

once these wires are cut fold the wires that are running to the front of the jeep back out of the way, you are going to be working with the wires that RUN INTO THE PLUG ON THE AMP

at this point you will have four 4" wires coming from the plug, you will connect(butt connectors or solder) these wires with the 4 wires on your new line level converter

the diagram below shows exactly what the process involves

now that this is completed you have a non-fading RCA output for your aftermarket sub/amp

on to fixing the doors

***this fix will allow you to replace the front door subwoofers with 2 or 3way speakers that will fill the cabin of the jeep with high/mid range sound***

when looking at the factory amp you will be working with the right(front most) plug

the wires that you cut in half on the last procedure were only used on one end(plug end), the other ends we left folded back out of the way...this is where we will tie those loose wires back into the front dash leads to pick up our high/mid range sound

using t-tap connectors, splice the 4 loose wires into the right plug wiring following the diagram shown below

all that is left to do is replace the front door 6x9 subwoofers with some good 2 or 3 ways and you will be smiling ear to ear...

***FYI...when switching out the front door speakers you will most likely need to space the new speaker out from the door about 3/8" in order to clear the window as they will most likely be a little deeper than factory....what i do in the shop is take one of the regular nylon bungee cords and cut the hook off both ends...take and loosely install the 2 bottom screws in the new speaker....route the bungee on the inside of the screws and center the bungee....pull the bungee around the speaker on one side and loosely install that corners screw...repeat for the other top pull the bungee to the middle of the speaker on top and cut it so that it meets up...tighten down screws and you're done!!!***

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Last edited by cmn1; 07-16-2013 at 05:59 AM.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 10:03 PM
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On JP's advice, I did this mod today on my Jeep. It sounds so much better now!!! I was budgeting for a new amp, speakers, and a lot of rewiring. This saved me at least $200-$300.

Since I'm just running a small sub & amp, I used the power & ground from the factory subwoofer wiring. Worked like a charm and I didn't have to run wire all the way to the battery. I wouldn't recommend this if you're wanting a big ground pounding system though.

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