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Anyone go from a Procharger to a turbo?

12K views 117 replies 17 participants last post by  Passmg2 
#1 ·
What do I need to go from a Procharger to turbo other than the obvious?


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#2 ·
Just diapers, 10# of S/C boost is way different than 10# of turbo boost
 
#8 ·
Lol. What he said^^^^. I'd say a trans and converter if you don't already have one. Not necessary but will eventually need it. Also think of it this way, turbo doesn't put the stress on the crank like the procharger does because of the belt drive. I say doooo it!.....:)
 
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#3 ·
So only the hardware then? The fuel system will remain the same?


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#4 ·
If you have done something to it then yes, it would stay the same.
 
#6 ·
Damnit Jason, always the voice of reason!


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#9 ·
Just a stage 2 valvebody, no converter. I would really hate to buy a new one as this transmission is not even 2 years old and maybe 20,000 miles on it.
Think I am, guy wants to buy my stock rims and Procharger. I would only need to put in $1500 to get the demon kit.


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#11 ·
I'm running 80lb injectors and a 440 Walbro already. What else do I need for fuel?


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#13 ·
I'll have to look into it, I have their fuel rails already.


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#16 · (Edited)
It appears like you are pretty risk adverse. A turbo will make target BOOST much earlier than your supercharger will make its peak boost.

If you run your supercharger at 10lbs PEAK that means it is averaging like 6psi through the power band. A turbo set to 10psi will average much closer to that value through the power band. That is why they "make more power"

At the end of the day if you end up making more power than you currently are, be prepared for the headaches that come with it.


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#17 ·
Understood. Why I keep searching for ways to make actual power I want is cause all the way up here in Denver it feels lacking in comparison to what I read through the forum with the mods I have. I'm really trying to find the magic formula to get what I am seeking. Turbo seems to be my only chance at it with the rig.


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#23 ·
Killa, I totally agree with what the guys here say. if you want your Jeep to shine at that high altitude, I suggest that you build the engine and the drivetrain with the strongest components available, get that turbo in, get a proper return style fuel system in and some proper injectors and plugs and turn that knob all the way to the right. Like Viking said, be prepared for headaches and I am thinking put aside $xx,000 to get everything done, and $x,000 for mishaps, sadly there are no shortcuts.
 
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#27 ·
Reliable it is then. Now I have to figure what is needed to build the motor out.


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#28 ·
I didn't see a target boost or HP number come from the OP... do you have a number in mind that you're aiming for?

Don't start throwing money at something based on the advice in this thread until the qualified contributors here fully understand what your goals are. You may be happy with a fatter torque curve on the same boost you're running and it would be wasteful to spend a TON more on mods... Of course, these guys may know more than what is in the thread, so don't let me stop you.

Your injectors and pump look fine... but that is because I don't know how much power you want to make... so I cannot tell you. Meeper mentioned your MAP... but I didn't see where you mentioned which MAP you have, or how much boost you plan on running, so I cannot tell you. You have a Stage 2 VB with no miles on it... that could be OK too.. but again, all things considered - I have no idea what your goals are other than to ditch the SC and put a turbo on it. I, 100%, support this effort... don't get me wrong... but maybe get it on, get the bugs worked out before you add more variables to the equation. If most of your setup is working with the SC - it better work after the turbo or the turbo stuff is the problem. If you add 10 more things into the mix, it is a lot harder to track down the gremlins.

You're gonna have to sell those headers... which means you need stock manifolds... which means you're going to be doing a bit of labor just to swap those out... consider your options in keeping the headers... maybe it is a few hundred bucks to have a local fabricator merge the Demon hot side with your headers...

I agree with reusing the PC IC and piping...if it was a custom kit, but I don't think buying the Demon kit to not use the cold side is in your best interest.
 
#29 ·
I have to figure it all out, this thread was me trying to get an idea of what is involved with a swap over. I'm at about 500 since the tune correction. I would like 600, but that seems mild on a turbo apparently. So next year I'm guessing some stuff is going on sale. Headers are going to Jason first if he wants them, probably swap for his stockers.
Definitely some more thought process involved instead of just slapping a blower on.


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#30 ·
I personally don't think there is any thought to it. If you want to go turbo, do it. Buy the kit, install it and run low boost or just off the waste gate spring till you have funds set aside to start to turn it up, ie, trans, motor. But like Jack said, what HP are you looking for now, and in the long run?
 
#32 ·
I think he is actually running the 3" or 3.25" pulley so I don't think going smaller will help. I just don't think the d1 is giving him the performance he thought he would get at those altitudes for the price. I think you need to either go turbo up there or if you want to stay the SC route, get a bigger one like the f series if procharger is the choice. My .02


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#33 ·
That is exactly the situation J. I'm on a 3.1 pulley now and getting some slip. Going back to a 3.2. So either the F-1 or a turbo needs to happen.


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#34 ·
If you go turbo you may be happy with 10 lbs or less boost. You may be able to get away with not building the motor, trans will feel the pain though.


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#35 ·
I know you already know this Akili, but you can't go by the results someone got at lower altitude. Meaning pulley size. You've got to spin it a lot faster up here! That said, Jason ran an 11 at Bandi with his D1 after Johan tweaked it. And he's basically stock, other than the blower. I doubt you're gonna get much, if any better without risking your engine. Be it blower or turbo. But an 11 at this altitude in a Jeep is pretty impressive IMO. Just depends on how far you want to push it. I think I ran 13 PSI on the stock bottom, and lived to tell the tale, but I don't recommend anyone else trying it. However, if you decide to take a cruise down Crazy Ave ;), the cheapest route would probably be going to a 10 rib, or better yet, cog setup if you're already getting slipage. Personally I'd beef up the rotating assy a bit first...Better safe than sorry!

wink
 
#36 ·
The way it feels now I doubt I'm in the 11's but I would need to run it to see it.


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#39 ·
The way it feels now I doubt I'm in the 11's but I would need to run it to see it.
Never trust the Butt Dyno. She lies. ;)

If your only getting about 5lbs, then I would agree. Makes me wonder if there is another issue.

Wink, do you recall the boost he was seeing on the d1?
Not sure if he ever checked it. But I'd guess around 8 or 9 to hit an 11. He actually ran two IIRC. Yep, here are the vids. (sorry about the size, may take a while to download)

http://www.mcvw.com/misc/Jason_11_93.mov

http://www.mcvw.com/misc/Jason_11_95.mov

wink
 
#37 ·
If your only getting about 5lbs, then I would agree. Makes me wonder if there is another issue.

Wink, do you recall the boost he was seeing on the d1?


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#38 ·
Exactly, but the compression test came back fine, plugs and fuel and everything else checks out. Johan says the tune is fine although I had him lower the fuel a point since I was getting a puff of black smoke on acceleration.
It's things like this why I keep feeling dissatisfied with what I have. A D-1 with 3.2 pulley, cam, headers and ported intake should pull like a damn freight train and sometimes it sure feels slow as hell.


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