I leave mine in "D" 99% of the time. It dives around like the day I bought it, unless I decide to push the pedal further. Then it goes into boost. How much boost depends on how far I push the pedal. Around town and on the freeway it's rarely more than a pound or two. Maybe 4-5 pounds to pass on the freeway from 75. I never go WOT off the track. I only use auto-stick at the track. Maybe sometimes on a steep hill when I don't feel like riding the brakes. Just never need it.
One drivability issue I forgot about is cruise control. If I'm on relatively flat terrain, it works normal. But if I encounter a steep enough hill, the computer will give it a little gas to maintain the set speed. Depending on various factors, it may go into a pound or two of boost. That quickly overshoots the set speed, so it dumps the throttle. Slows back down to the trigger speed, and repeats the process. People next to me probably think I'm challenging them, I'm not. I've been told there's nothing I can do about it. It's a blower thing. I'm used to it. Sometimes I'll turn off cruise if it's a long and steep enough hill, then turn it back on when I'm past the hill.
My best advice is find someone with a blown or turbo'd Jeep and see if they'll let you drive it. Then you'll know for yourself... Otherwise see dog pic. LOL!
Drives like stock when you want it to. Just auto stick to stay out of boost. From a dead stop, hold the f#ck on! From a roll, hold the f#ck on! On the interstate, drives stock unless you mash it.....
No drivability issues, no over heating or running hot. I run the electric water pump also.
Mondo is correct. I drive around town with the boost control in the off position. I see 5 or 6 lbs. I just put it in drive and go. Boost comes on soft with the turbo with this setting and great for passing! [emoji12] I use the low boost setting sometimes as well. Around 15 lbs. Quite a bit more aggressive, but doable on the street. High boost setting is for the track.
I've had a SC as well and had no issues on the street other than climbing steep hills while not watching the boost gage. The old Maggie would surprise me from time to time.
I've had a SC as well and had no issues on the street other than climbing steep hills while not watching the boost gage. The old Maggie would surprise me from time to time.
My 426 with the Maggie had some driveability issues, it would like to go full boost on mild throttle inputs at times which I decided I did not like. Now with an 88mm turbo, the 426 drives as docile as stock and comes alive with the go pedal, plus the turbo is a muffler (and its the only muffler lol). With my setup I notice no turbo lag, it won't make full boost in first gear but it still pulls 1.5sec 60-ft launches on the street with the 2-step. I have a paramount built trans/transfer case with their PTCM and it drives perfect, no harsh shifts or any stupid behavior, these are simply magic. Currently upgrading to their max level pro setup and we'll see how it changes. The wavetrac diff in the back drives perfect, no lockup issues or noise. The only detriment to daily driving is the Fore triple fuel pump setup that can suffer fuel starvation if below 3/8 of a tank, so I keep it half full or better all the time. Then there's the reality that you have all this capability with few opportunities to exercise the demons depending on your commute and traffic.
It wasn't an uncontrollable issue. Just something to be aware of. And yes I did log on one particular hill more than once.
At part throttle it's just a few pounds of boost, similar to wink.
Cruise control and towing a boat didn't last long for me. When I had the Magnacharger on I would wire tie the bypass open so it couldn't go into boost. It would still get me to 0 psi.
I find it takes a little more gas to get moving (outside of boost) with the lower compression motor and higher stall converter. I don't remember it taking that much pedal stock, could also be the fairly aggressive cam I got from Andy.
Yeah, those are the trade-offs that nobody talks about. From what I understand cam upgrades typically trade low end for high RPM power. Lower compression reduces overall power (until boost negates it). Throttle response is probably effected too.
I wonder how a big stroker compares to forced induction at part throttle, low end power, and throttle response. Bigger cubic inches should increase power everywhere, all the time. Unless the top end is overly hogged out once again trading low end torque for high RPM horsepower. Some guys really prefer the characteristics of a big naturally aspirated motor for these reasons. But there is no denying the power of forced induction in the second half of the tach.
My supercharged rig drives like stock when you are light on the pedal, but there is a tipping point that you have to get used to if you want to stay out of boost. My trans has a 3600 stall. This is on stock motor. It will be interesting to see the behavior when I get into the motor build portion.
My strokers great minus the terrible gas mileage. I could give any boosted guy that didnt have a built motor a run for his money and pretty linear power. I usually cut 1.4-1.5 60' so it was great off the line just didnt have top end pull of a built motor/boost setup. It would pull to 175 but I trap low 120's and most built motor/boosted guys are 140-150.
Since going supercharged it definitely does not drive like it used to stock. The drivetrain definitely feels different. Not as smooth at all. I do have the a stage 2 valve body and 6200 TCM if that means anything.
Also in stick mode which I drive 90% of the time, if I hold the gear too long it'll let off on the boost. Still trying to figure out the car but I am enjoying the added power.
These are just my observations.
You only need the fuel system if you want to play seriously. My drop in pump supported 604 wheel and I went as fast as 10.7 and regularly ran low 11's on pump gas at full weight. These things never got good mileage and I didnt care what it got, only care about smiles per gallon
I agree Tim. But still it is never a good idea to run any fuel system too far past the fuel lamp. They are designed that way to keep the pumps cool and you from running out of gas. Lol. With the fore system I have gotten so low that on hard takeoff I did loose fuel pressure once and it didn't sound pretty. Learned that lesson. Theses jeeps are not designed for mpg so someone may want to look at another type of vehicle
I've heard debris settles on the bottom, and you're more likely to suck it in if you run it too low. Maybe. But after a number of years of running it down as far as possible on the way to the track, I've yet to have a fuel issue of any kind. Except for a kinked line, and that had nothing to do with how much was in the tank.
On page 2 twokrx7 posted that he can't drive below 3/16 (1/4 tank) or he has fuel problems. So basically his tank is 25% smaller. Compound that with 25% or more worse MPG from power mods. Basically running half the tank of stock, which already gets atrocious MPG and range due to too small a tank. I don't mind paying to play, but there is a practical minimum MPG vs tank capacity. It sucks filling up every 100 miles, and that probably will leave you stranded while driving cross country unless you fill up every 50!
Edit: You literally could pass everything but a gas station!
Lol dude extra power doesn't come out of thin air. You need more inputs to get more outputs in this case fuel and air are the inputs and the output is power.
Also your math is flawed.
Most of our platforms behave like stock in part throttle conditions and get similar gas mileage to a stock jeep. Shoot I get 15-16 mpg cruising at highway speeds and the jeep is rated at what 14mpg
But enough of your unsubstantiated rhetoric just go buy a Prius [emoji23]
First off why is anyone driving a race jeep cross country and expecting to gdtany kind of mpg. I was getting 15.5 on highway to the beAch once though. You can run below 1/4 not just too close to the fuel lamp. Fuel lamp comes on around 4-5 gallons left anyway. As I said before you should never run that low or even stock fuel pump damage will accurr. If your using the same theory even in stock for they are leaving 20% fuel in there still. That is normal on any car. I don't understand the argument here
Your way over thinking this. If your only looking for 150 extra hp then throw a sc, turbo or h/c setup at it and your done. You keep talking about high hp quirks when your only looking for 150hp? I'm confused. With what your looking for there won't be any. Its all in the tuning and data logging and we have a couple guys in here that are pretty good at that.... Your diving in deeper than your even going to go.
Your way over thinking this. If your only looking for 150 extra hp then throw a sc, turbo or h/c setup at it and your done. You keep talking about high hp quirks when your only looking for 150hp? I'm confused.
You will always suffer a certain amount of BS with these SUVs. Your recent posts in other threads leads me to this......Just do heads and cam and be done.
You are saying "just 150HP" is nothing and no issues. Eskle is sorta saying there is an issue with the Maggie's street ability (at least, compared to turbo) as he tries to sell it to me, and not, and then recommends HCI?
I said your recent posts, meaning the last hr. or so. Everything someone says to you to try to help you go searching for more questions. A turbo is more street able than a super charger. The end. A stock motor with a Maggie is about as street able as you will get. I don't need the money. I'll keep my dusty Maggie. How much more information do you need?
2014 300 SRT8 / 2007 JEEP SRT8
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